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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Under car rust proofingViews : 3838 Replies : 25Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 10th, 2020, 01:12 | #21 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 21:08
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Location: Cardigan
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Quite a few years ago I went to see a Sunbeam Alpine that ten years previously had had a very expensive restoration. There were pictures of the shell upside down on a jig having new floor panels etc welded in when it was done. It was a popper restoration and very expensive at the time.
Afterwards it was coated in thick underseal. This had dried out and separated from the metal and become a water trap. The car was completely rotten. When I saw it it had been stored outside and although it had not rained for a few days there was water dripping out from underneath it. This was in the days when evilbay allowed the sharing of phone numbers so it was possible to view before bidding. On paper it sounded like a good car but I am so glad I went to view it. |
Jul 10th, 2020, 05:35 | #22 | |
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Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 18:48
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Location: Alberta
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Quote:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html |
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Jul 10th, 2020, 08:47 | #23 |
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Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England
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I use the waxoyl with underseal product for underbody, which seems durable and doesn't crack and trap water and waxoyl, and lately, Dynax in box sections, doors etc.
Products are not expensive and I don't see any advantage in old engine oil. Yuk yuk yuk ! |
Jul 10th, 2020, 11:15 | #24 |
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Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE
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Further to my original post regarding Waxoyl & Tetroseal -- diluting with clean engine oil: ~ Once diluted the products have the consistency very similar to Dinitrol (another good product) if will eventually flash off to some degree.
Black or Clear is available. Diluting the product allows it to creep far more than it would normally so the effectiveness is increased inside doors- box sections and other parts to include the inner wheel sections (remove the liners for a better finish) If the underside is heavily rusted or muddy then it is better to remove the same as best you can- you want to apply onto a dry surface. It works well and after a two plus year check it remains in good condition particularly in the hidden sections/under wheel arch liners – suspension parts can get washed but these are generally easier to spray with a top up coating. My 66 year old classic also thrives on it! Good Luck Bob. Last edited by Bob Meadows; Jul 10th, 2020 at 11:23. |
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Jul 10th, 2020, 13:11 | #25 |
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Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England
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Will drill one hole (thanks, C1800). Have put my waxoyl in the airing cupboard in preparation and will wait for warm weather next week. Great response from everyone!
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Jul 14th, 2020, 22:22 | #26 |
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Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England
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Wow, that box section is tough! Thick metal. I guess the Jensen-built cars are easier to drill 🤣. Sprayed Jenolite and then clear Waxoyl. Waited til warm day. Still managed to get more product in my hair than in the car.
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