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Electric window not working driver's side

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Old Jun 9th, 2013, 23:51   #11
Volvorama
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Default Hot wire

Before dismantling everything try carefully hotwiring the motor by unplugging the switch and joining together appropriate pairs of wires. My GLT has this problem with a rear door. Window goes down but not up. Works fine hotwired and also with a switch borrowed from another door so switch must be the problem.
Still have not got around to sorting the switch and engine's just gone weird so I bought a Torslander to keep me in a 240 estate while I get round to engine changing.
Now looking for a 940 2,3 turbo to create a Torbolander...
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Old Jun 17th, 2013, 00:16   #12
Volvodrivingbiker
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Default drivers window not working

Firstly I'd like to say Hi tripped over the site while looking around

secondly my 240 gl etsate had window problems when i bought it last year
the window would go down but not up again
after driving around with door card removed enablimg me to fiddle with the motor / mechanisum at drop of a hat , i figured there was a friction problem causing the window to stop !
I found the motor worked without load fine
I managed to cure this by stripping the motor down the conections to wich there are two live in earth out and in between the live and the motor itself is a ( Load Resistor ) this i asume stops the window when it meets most restence
ie: fully closed / fully open
so all i did was strip some fine wire and rap a couple of threads around the resistor just to try it out , and it worked motor still shut off at peak loads and a year on it works fine .
hope this helps

Last edited by Volvodrivingbiker; Jun 17th, 2013 at 00:17. Reason: spelling
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Old Jun 17th, 2013, 14:44   #13
Jungle_Jim
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Thanks Volvodrivingbiker, much appreciated.

Because it appears you've got to the bottom of this, would you mind answering a couple of queries....

* There's two wires going into the motor - one browny/red and one black. Are you saying that these are both 'live', presumably one to send 12v+ for up, the other 12v- for down etc, while the body of the motor is earth? I was assuming that those two cables are the + and - of 12v with the polarity swapped depending on up or down movement.

* Because my mechanism is locked in the 'up' position, it's difficult to follow the workshop manual's instructions for getting the window winding mechanism out because it suggests putting it in the down position, detaching the window rail, then pushing the window up by hand, then taking the mechanism out. I can't see how I can unbolt the motor and also I read that the whole mechanism is sprung-loaded and it could be hazardous to let the mechanism spring apart. Any suggestions about accessing or removing the motor?

* Once the motor is out, is the resistor obvious?

Thanks a lot for looking at this,
John
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Old Jun 17th, 2013, 23:40   #14
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Hi Jungle_Jim
yes Id say your right about the two black wires being the lives and neutrals as the switch will swap them over depending up or down .

as to removing the mechanisam yes its spring loaded but it seams to be weighted as it never srung shut on me , but take care just in case

you can remove the motor with out the mechanisam being touched though is quite fiddly , if you have access to an 8mm ratchet spanner there are three bolts holding the motor to the window mechanisam undo these and unplug the wiring harness to the motor below the speaker hole
then motr should be free

you will need to then strip the motor down make note how it came apart
where the two wires enter the motor there should be two metal strips making there way to the bushes that drive the winding one goes straight there the other one passes through the load resistor ,
unfortunately i didnt take any photos so can not show you .
just rap two fine threads of copper wires around the base of resistor then refit motor and try before refiting door card

Note that without any load the motor will work on the bench but i would still bypass resistor .
it is a damd fidly job though
you can also remove mechnisam easily enough but getting it back in is tricky too !

good luck hope it works these are just my expeirences but it does seem to be a flaw in the design
ps if your not sure wether its the switch or not just swap passenger and driver switch over they have the same conections
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Old Sep 25th, 2013, 08:06   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george123 View Post
Hi Jungle Jim,
afraid I've no advice other than my 240 driver's window did the same today. When operating the switch with the engine off but ignition on, the dash lights dim, which suggests the switch has power, and the window motor can be heard to give a single click each time the switch is rocked, but nothing else. Never had a problem with the windows before, summer or winter. No help to you, I know, but hopefully someone has had these symptoms too and may have the solution.
Hi george123 - have you managed to resolve this?

I have had the same problem for a while and would value anybody's suggestions (after having the window fully up a few weeks ago to prevent raindrops coming in off the roof rack), and I've slid a palette knife either side of the glass to free up any possible obstruction and tried gripping it and pushing down while my daughter operates the switch. I've cleaned out the switch in the past but this time that isn't the culprit, as swapping switches with the passenger door switch shows that both switches are working. I have a 'click' and power [7.5 v, not 12 v] is getting to the motor when the switch is depressed; but the connections to the motor (red and black) are not a plug but soldered so the motor would not come out easily, assuming I can unbolt it. I'm bearing in mind what Volvodrivingbiker and Jungle_Jim have said, and hope to understand it as well as they have.
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Old Sep 26th, 2013, 21:31   #16
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Hopefully the below pictures will be of use to those with electric window problems.

These are taken from the 1991 wiring diagram green book, i would imagine the circuit design has rarely changed over the years, the colour of wire might have done.

General layout of where the power window loom lays in the car and the various connectors, so you'll be able to do fault tracing or continuity testing for each section.



Detailed wiring diagram of the power window circuit, with examples of how the power runs through the circuit to help you understand how they work.


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Old Sep 27th, 2013, 17:07   #17
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Thanks, Chesh, really helpful & excellent diagrams (which I've put on Pictures to enlarge them), and good to meet you yesterday. Also for letting me know this won't fail me the test - so I can fix it next week not this.

Dan C.
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Old Dec 17th, 2014, 13:53   #18
Blaise
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Default Volvo v40 window mech issue

Hi all, i am having an issue with my drivers side electric mech too.
I put the window down, when i tried to put it back up it made all the right sounds but the window does not lift up.
I summise that the switch is working and the motor of the mechanism is working too as it sounds like it is moving the glass up. However, it just isnt moving!
A neighbour said it sounds like a cog is slipping. Anyone have any ideas?
I have stripped the door down inside and have managed to lift the glass and mech manually, but my experience with this kind of issue is that the glass will just slowly drop down as i drive.

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks 😊
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Old Sep 25th, 2016, 20:38   #19
Addy5065
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Angry S60 Front passenger window goes down but not up

My 2002 Volvo S60. Front Passenger door window, goes down but not up. regardless of whether I use the drivers side control switch or the passenger door control switch all that I can hear is a CLICKING NOISE coming from the switch on the nearside front door, nothing moves. This would suggest to me that it might be a relay within the switch that is not working properly, ha anyone else had this problem?
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Old Apr 19th, 2018, 11:41   #20
speedyG50
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Solved this issue recently. Loosen off the 4 bolts that attach the regulator to the door ... and also loosen the two locking nuts. Now use a lever to move the whole unit around a bit. Motor should now move the regulator, then reset the unit and the locking nuts as per the manual. While you're at it, squirt some lubricant over the whole shebang.
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