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Cam Belt, tooth out of place??

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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 18:42   #1
chiptivo
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Default Cam Belt, tooth out of place??

If my week could not get any worse, my simple attempt at changing the alternator pully on my 2004 D5 S60 has ended in disaster...


All was going well until I started the engine.

The old cap off the old pully fell down and I forgot to check, it looks like it landed on the straight bit of the aux belt and got sucked along into the main flywheel.

Obviously it broke into little pieces, but I think it has knocked my cam belt off a notch!!!!

The engine will start, but sounds awful, obviously I will not run the engine again.....

I guess the obvious thing to do will be to check and try and reset??? I know people have got away with a tooth out of sync before.

I really need advice on this, I am so gutted...






Also, when I was changing the alternator pully I may have turned the aux belt backwards, and therefore turned the engine backwards, could this have caused the issue I am having....


I dread the mobile engineer call out if I can't put this right..

Sad times...
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 18:47   #2
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Damn, that's a drag. Sorry to hear this.
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 19:36   #3
GrahamBrown1
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I can't see how a small disk of plastic has made the Cambelt skip a tooth. You didn't touch the cambet tentioner so I just can't see how it's happened. Stay calm and just think logically, remove th aux belt and run the engine. If it still runs bad then check the timing. I would be surprised if it has skipped a tooth because of a disk of thin plastic!
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 19:38   #4
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Commiserations. Self inflicted troubles are the most infuriating. There is probably an Eastern way of looking at this which makes it all OK - it escapes me for the moment.
I doubt very much that rotating the aux belt will have done anything untoward.
I think you should get the timing belt changed.
The cap may have jumped the belt a tooth or a large fragment is trapped under the crank pulley making a woeful noise. Either way you could convince yourself that resetting the belt or removing debris will fix it and it may but why take the risk that the belt itself is damaged and compound misfortunes.
How long since last changed ?
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 20:54   #5
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I'd agree that your problem probably isn't terminal but just proceed with caution.
You can manually turn the crank nut (30mm socket) clockwise and line up the mark on the cam pulley to match the timing cover mark at 12 o'clock. You can then see if the crank timing mark lines up also. If you feel resistance when turning the crank pulley, stop immediately.
Access to the crank nut is behind the wheel arch inner lining.
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 21:36   #6
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I had this cap off today to see if changing the pulley in place would be possible. The cap is hard enough plastic, but I doubt it would have messed with your timing. Maybe there's a bit of it stuck rubbing against a pulley or the belt? Is it the engine that sounds rough or the belt area?
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 21:55   #7
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It was as loud as the loudest tractor diesel at tick over, not right at all. I did blip the throttle and it did not respond correctly when this first happened this afternoon.

I have had the cambelt cover off tonight. I lined up the markings and I was pretty sure they were out by one. The problem is I can not exactly see the bottom marking because of the aux wheel.

When I set the belt I noticed a chunk of plastic was in the grooves of the bottom toothed wheel.

I have now set the belt and . Can you study the pictures, and have a look at haynes. I am unsure about the bottom indicator behind the aux wheel as it is not visible.

I can turn the crank fully, and only have some resistance at two points, but I am sure this resistance was the same when I attempted to change the cam belt a while back. Put it down to the top and bottom most points of the engine cycle.

I was so tempted to start her up tonight, but in the darkness and rush, I have taken a step back.

Please help..



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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 22:00   #8
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What I am trying to show on the pictures is that it is in position on the top, and the bottom (according to haynes) has the timing piece at around 11 o'Clock, which looks right.

Also the wheels are all lines up, the 4 bolts are in the same sequential position. (Not the best indicator I know!) I suppose, you would have had to have done this, or have a haynes close by to understand what I am trying to say. #


I know the advice should be, get the wheel off, but I can not remove the 30mm nut!

or

get a garage to collect it.. But pennies are tight!
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 22:30   #9
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Hi,
caught my eye this one,
don't know the D5 engine, but i would of thought that the cam toothed wheel mark would line up at 12 o'clock, in your pic its nowhere near 12 o'clock so i may be wrong.
Do you have a manual to look up?
Who and when painted the white marks?

The bottom mark on crank pulley( you call it aux) is on the toothed sprocket believe, just lke the petrol variant 2.4.

Its very diffcult to see, although night time is best wth a pencil beam torch.

2 tiny little marks on crowns of two teeth, and a tiny little downward marker on alloy seal cover (oil pump?), this ponter will point to between these two marks.
THis is TDC ( Top dead centre )

But i don't know D5, but i presume some simllarities wth petrol 2.4.

Last edited by 4candles; Apr 10th, 2015 at 22:35.
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 22:36   #10
chiptivo
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Just found this. I didn't realise the tooth is marked that way. Good stuff, will take a better look in the morning..


Although I can not see these markings on the cog on this picture! (NOT MY ENGINE. PIC FROM THE INTERNET)

Last edited by chiptivo; Apr 10th, 2015 at 23:40.
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