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Broken Locking Wheel Nut

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Old Feb 2nd, 2014, 15:50   #11
Rob47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianu View Post
Probably know as one of those 'oh no!' moments.
Today as I attempted to remove one of the wheels - with the Locking Wheel Nut adapter in place and socket bar attached - as I turned it anti clockwise to undo it - the head of the nut with the keyway in it sheared off and came away leaving the stud still attached to the hub....
The stud has what looks like a small torx style head on it that might be possible to get some purchase on - but nothing I had in my toolbox (torx and socket) will get enough grip on it.
The collar piece that has sheared off has a radial crack in it which then failed completely by the look of it.
Does anyone have any experience of getting the rest of the stud out - is it a dealer job to get the right tool that can fit the stud head that is exposed - or should an experienced indy garage be able to tackle this without wrecking the wheel and hub ?
Having already had all the other 3 wheels off - I very carefully went round and removed all the other locking nuts and replaced with standard studs - just in case ..

Any guidance - much appreciated.

Cheers
Ian.
I know the feeling, just happened to me.
I managed to hammer a smaller size socket over the broken bolt until I got a tight fit the bolt then turned with ease, might have got lucky with this but it solved the problem and saved a visit to a garage.
I have now replaced all locking nuts with standard wheel bolts.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2014, 17:40   #12
owenfackrell
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This happened to mine as well I got a drill of kit from McGuard who also sent a replacement key. I used the repacelment key to remove the other 3 and fitted 4 standard bolts.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2014, 20:02   #13
GJB
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Have changed from genuine Volvo locking wheel nuts on my old XC90 and also my new one due to problems with my old car and costing about £120 to have them removed when they where damaged by a air gun when the tyres where renewed have found a much studier make and used them with my old and new XC90 with no problems.Just need to search and find them.
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Old Feb 4th, 2014, 15:43   #14
timh30
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Originally Posted by GJB View Post
Have changed from genuine Volvo locking wheel nuts on my old XC90 and also my new one due to problems with my old car and costing about £120 to have them removed when they where damaged by a air gun when the tyres where renewed have found a much studier make and used them with my old and new XC90 with no problems.Just need to search and find them.
Do you have a link or details for the new locking nuts?
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Old Feb 4th, 2014, 16:29   #15
GJB
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Cannot remember exact ones 8 years ago but see many different types are available on ebay
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Old Feb 4th, 2014, 18:53   #16
Ducklakeview
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I think the McGuard bolts supplied as an accessory from new are relatively weak, and they do not cope well with ignorant tyre fitters using impact wrench's on them. They are normally sold as an "vital" accessory by the supplying dealers...

Personally, on all of my cars, I have replaced any locking bolts/nuts with original ones, indeed - On the last few cars, the "original" bolts/nuts were still in the boot, housed conveniently in the case that the locking ones came in..

In terms of "sturdiness" if you do like to have them, then I think THESE will be a lot sturdier, but in my opinion, as pretty much all cars these days come with alloys as standard, I don't see the point of them...
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Old Jan 29th, 2017, 04:11   #17
aslan
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Any tips to avoid this problem?

And the torque for these locking bolts are the same as for normal ones? The instruction in the box didn't specify except to recheck torque after 100 km.

When checking the torque I found it not easy to get the adaptor to stay put when applying pressure with a ratchet. I had to put my knee on it so that it won't jump out.

I lost 3 of my normal bolts on my left rear wheel on an interstate journey. I needed the bolts urgently and the shop replaced these with a set of Volvo locking bolts so that each wheel have a locking bolt. The shop think maybe someone loosened the bolts hence they recommended the locking bolts.

After reading this post I think I should've insisted replacing with normal bolts instead.
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Old Jan 29th, 2017, 09:46   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aslan View Post
Any tips to avoid this problem?

And the torque for these locking bolts are the same as for normal ones? The instruction in the box didn't specify except to recheck torque after 100 km.

When checking the torque I found it not easy to get the adaptor to stay put when applying pressure with a ratchet. I had to put my knee on it so that it won't jump out.

I lost 3 of my normal bolts on my left rear wheel on an interstate journey. I needed the bolts urgently and the shop replaced these with a set of Volvo locking bolts so that each wheel have a locking bolt. The shop think maybe someone loosened the bolts hence they recommended the locking bolts.

After reading this post I think I should've insisted replacing with normal bolts instead.
Yes , the torque must be the same as the other bolts , 140 nm for bolts or 130 mn for nuts . You can get brake vibration if they are not all the same torque .

The latest type of volvo locking bolts from 2010 onwards are trouble-free so far , they are a new design so best get a set of these especially with a new set of wheels and tyres costing over £2000 !
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Old Jan 29th, 2017, 10:14   #19
AB-UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducklakeview View Post
I think the McGuard bolts supplied as an accessory from new are relatively weak, and they do not cope well with ignorant tyre fitters using impact wrench's on them. They are normally sold as an "vital" accessory by the supplying dealers...

Personally, on all of my cars, I have replaced any locking bolts/nuts with original ones, indeed - On the last few cars, the "original" bolts/nuts were still in the boot, housed conveniently in the case that the locking ones came in..

In terms of "sturdiness" if you do like to have them, then I think THESE will be a lot sturdier, but in my opinion, as pretty much all cars these days come with alloys as standard, I don't see the point of them...
Exactly what I have done - the original Volvo-supplied locking nuts just aren't deep enough to grip the socket firmly - too easy to slip and damage the edges. The ones highlighted above are much more forgiving, and were fitted as standard to SHMBO's Toyota. I believe the new XC90 also uses this type.
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Old Jan 30th, 2017, 14:51   #20
nu11eaf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianu View Post
Probably know as one of those 'oh no!' moments.
Today as I attempted to remove one of the wheels - with the Locking Wheel Nut adapter in place and socket bar attached - as I turned it anti clockwise to undo it - the head of the nut with the keyway in it sheared off and came away leaving the stud still attached to the hub....
The stud has what looks like a small torx style head on it that might be possible to get some purchase on - but nothing I had in my toolbox (torx and socket) will get enough grip on it.
The collar piece that has sheared off has a radial crack in it which then failed completely by the look of it.
Does anyone have any experience of getting the rest of the stud out - is it a dealer job to get the right tool that can fit the stud head that is exposed - or should an experienced indy garage be able to tackle this without wrecking the wheel and hub ?
Having already had all the other 3 wheels off - I very carefully went round and removed all the other locking nuts and replaced with standard studs - just in case ..

Any guidance - much appreciated.

Cheers
Ian.
Pre-emptive strike, I replaced all mine on my Volvo and Land Rover with normal bolts.
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