New XC70 owner random judder - Page 3

tommyweaves · Nov 14th, 2019, 16:13

Well that's pretty bloody disappointing!

tommyweaves · Nov 14th, 2019, 16:15

I'd get a ELM327 bluetooth dongle off ebay for less than a tenner, buy Torque Pro for your phone for a couple of quid. Then record some live data.

scoobysn7x · Nov 14th, 2019, 16:32

I take it back a little, spoke to a more knowledgeable service girl when I've picked it up, and the only thing the technician has advised to try is rebalancing the rear tyres as he felt a slight vibration at 40mph, she admitted they couldn't get it up to 70 due to traffic and road works, they also aid they are 90% sure the rebalancing wont fix it, but have said try it and if it's still there call back and theyll book it in for a 2/4 day period to do longer test drives and more in depth analysis, but said they checked all the drive train transfer boxes etc and all of them check out fine so they think whatever it is will be something small and simple but they want to rule out the simple stuff first.

I did say that iv had balancing/tyre issues before in other cars and the vibration has been constant, but she said they fully expect a call back from me and theyll book tha car back in and sort a courtesy car for me so I feel slightly happier about the situation

scoobysn7x · Nov 14th, 2019, 16:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommyweaves

I'd get a ELM327 bluetooth dongle off ebay for less than a tenner, buy Torque Pro for your phone for a couple of quid. Then record some live data.

I have an odd tool and torque what live data do you think I should try and record?

tommyweaves · Nov 14th, 2019, 16:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoobysn7x

I have an odd tool and torque what live data do you think I should try and record?

Boost and MAF probably. For the cost of a boost sensor (I think Volvo charged me £70 for the part, so you can probably get it cheaper somewhere) and the short amount of time to fit it, I'd just change it anyway.

My thread from 2017: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=267997

scoobysn7x · Nov 18th, 2019, 18:12

Unsurprisingly fault still there, so spoke to volvo garage and booked in next Monday for extended fault finding, and theyll give me a courtesy car and keep mine for a couple of days, so hopefully some extended test drives will enable them to find the fault :-)

tommyweaves · Nov 18th, 2019, 18:15

"Fault still there". After changing a sensor do you mean?

Ben the Viking · Nov 18th, 2019, 18:28

I have the same with my 2012 D5. It has been doing it for months and cannot find the fault. No fault codes on ViDA and no engine lights etc. I have been told to drive it and see if it develops. Which it has- hence why I’m on here to make a post and then saw yours. My judder has got worse and the car now cuts out when it gets bad. Mine used to do it on the motorway occasionally but now seems to do it when I start it up. Now struggling to actually start the car as it starts and then chokes and cuts out. However if I switch it off, take the fob out and open and close the door (so everything goes off) and sit there for about three or four mins, it will start and drive with no issue.

I would love to get to the bottom of it. I wondered if it was a transmission issue/torque converted/valve body initially but I am now starting to think it is either electrical or fuel system. I have had a new battery and also changed duel filter. Now I’m thinking possibly a failing crank sensor or a slow leak in a fuel line.... the possibilities are endless!!

37 RUBY · Nov 18th, 2019, 20:22

Modern vehicles eh!

For me I would progress as follows -

1. Get the live data recorded - TommyW had a boost sensor changed on the back of readings that were in tolerance? but not normal. What sensors have you got that are out of tolerance. I would also ask for a check of abs/ steering angle and yaw sensors. Not unheard of for ESP and or ABS being fooled into thinking something is amiss with a subsequent throttle/fuel supply cut.
You need a technician who can dechiper what the readings are not just a fitter who says the computer says there is nothing wrong. Maybe someone with a rolling road who can replicate the issue and is able to dechiper live data readings.

2. If you can afford it, one at a time, change the MAF and Crank Position Sensor. These tend not to throw error codes. Perhaps someone local to you could loan you a working MAF?

3. Any vacuum leaks?

4. Bad earths and corroded connections. I've lost count of the times a loss of half a volt has caused seemingly unsolvable problems on modern vehicles.

5. Check back in service history. Have Volvo or an Indy ever had the fault logged prior to your ownership and if so what was done in attempts to rectify?

scoobysn7x · Nov 18th, 2019, 20:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommyweaves

"Fault still there". After changing a sensor do you mean?

To be honest I've not had a chance to order the sensor, and tbh to a certain extent I don't want to start playing part roulette just yet. I will mention it to the garage when I hand it in, they are hopefully going to go in longer test drives and actually feel the fault for themselves l. If after a couple of days they are no further forward I will suggest starting with the boost sensor

Nov 14th, 2019, 16:13	#21
tommyweaves Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 19:55 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Sleaford	Well that's pretty bloody disappointing!

Nov 14th, 2019, 16:15	#22
tommyweaves Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 19:55 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Sleaford	I'd get a ELM327 bluetooth dongle off ebay for less than a tenner, buy Torque Pro for your phone for a couple of quid. Then record some live data.

Nov 14th, 2019, 16:32	#23
scoobysn7x Premier Member Last Online: Apr 16th, 2024 04:51 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Newcastle	I take it back a little, spoke to a more knowledgeable service girl when I've picked it up, and the only thing the technician has advised to try is rebalancing the rear tyres as he felt a slight vibration at 40mph, she admitted they couldn't get it up to 70 due to traffic and road works, they also aid they are 90% sure the rebalancing wont fix it, but have said try it and if it's still there call back and theyll book it in for a 2/4 day period to do longer test drives and more in depth analysis, but said they checked all the drive train transfer boxes etc and all of them check out fine so they think whatever it is will be something small and simple but they want to rule out the simple stuff first. I did say that iv had balancing/tyre issues before in other cars and the vibration has been constant, but she said they fully expect a call back from me and theyll book tha car back in and sort a courtesy car for me so I feel slightly happier about the situation

Nov 18th, 2019, 18:12	#26
scoobysn7x Premier Member Last Online: Apr 16th, 2024 04:51 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Newcastle	Unsurprisingly fault still there, so spoke to volvo garage and booked in next Monday for extended fault finding, and theyll give me a courtesy car and keep mine for a couple of days, so hopefully some extended test drives will enable them to find the fault :-)

Nov 18th, 2019, 18:15	#27
tommyweaves Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 19:55 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Sleaford	"Fault still there". After changing a sensor do you mean?

Nov 18th, 2019, 18:28	#28
Ben the Viking New Member Last Online: Oct 29th, 2023 11:24 Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Taunton	I have the same with my 2012 D5. It has been doing it for months and cannot find the fault. No fault codes on ViDA and no engine lights etc. I have been told to drive it and see if it develops. Which it has- hence why I’m on here to make a post and then saw yours. My judder has got worse and the car now cuts out when it gets bad. Mine used to do it on the motorway occasionally but now seems to do it when I start it up. Now struggling to actually start the car as it starts and then chokes and cuts out. However if I switch it off, take the fob out and open and close the door (so everything goes off) and sit there for about three or four mins, it will start and drive with no issue. I would love to get to the bottom of it. I wondered if it was a transmission issue/torque converted/valve body initially but I am now starting to think it is either electrical or fuel system. I have had a new battery and also changed duel filter. Now I’m thinking possibly a failing crank sensor or a slow leak in a fuel line.... the possibilities are endless!!

Nov 18th, 2019, 20:22	#29
37 RUBY Master Member Last Online: Apr 17th, 2024 16:49 Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Chesterfield	Modern vehicles eh! For me I would progress as follows - 1. Get the live data recorded - TommyW had a boost sensor changed on the back of readings that were in tolerance? but not normal. What sensors have you got that are out of tolerance. I would also ask for a check of abs/ steering angle and yaw sensors. Not unheard of for ESP and or ABS being fooled into thinking something is amiss with a subsequent throttle/fuel supply cut. You need a technician who can dechiper what the readings are not just a fitter who says the computer says there is nothing wrong. Maybe someone with a rolling road who can replicate the issue and is able to dechiper live data readings. 2. If you can afford it, one at a time, change the MAF and Crank Position Sensor. These tend not to throw error codes. Perhaps someone local to you could loan you a working MAF? 3. Any vacuum leaks? 4. Bad earths and corroded connections. I've lost count of the times a loss of half a volt has caused seemingly unsolvable problems on modern vehicles. 5. Check back in service history. Have Volvo or an Indy ever had the fault logged prior to your ownership and if so what was done in attempts to rectify?

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