Reconditioned engine

[Ed Mac]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Not that I'm aware of.

Went to the garage this morning - timing belt is to come off, followed by the rocker cover - camshaft to be pinned in position before the belt is re-applied to see if that makes a difference. (I didn't pin it, so it's possibly a tooth out).
As the injectors will have to come out I'll prob stick the old ones in which were already coded to the ECU.
Probably not a bad time to check out the whirring noise after shut down when the rocker is off. Probably exhaust valve related.
I'll let you know how it goes. If I have any hair left.

[Ed Mac]

Garage unable to remove injectors. Specialist needed - does anyone know if the timing belt being a tooth out would definitely cause a camshaft position sensor error??

[Ed Mac]

Originally Posted by Clan

your original engine is a D5244T5 part number 6906074

Finally got the VIN for the donor car - it's YV1BW694181042946 -can you tell if this is the same engine code as mine - and is it a manual?
Thanks

[Semnoz]

Originally Posted by Ed Mac

Went to the garage this morning - timing belt is to come off, followed by the rocker cover - camshaft to be pinned in position before the belt is re-applied to see if that makes a difference. (I didn't pin it, so it's possibly a tooth out).
As the injectors will have to come out I'll prob stick the old ones in which were already coded to the ECU.
Probably not a bad time to check out the whirring noise after shut down when the rocker is off. Probably exhaust valve related.
I'll let you know how it goes. If I have any hair left.

I'm fairly sure if you line up the sprocket markers as per the Haynes manual and the numerous YouTube videos (SiRobb's channel is brilliant) then I don't see how the belt/teeth can be out of sync, unless you've fitted the wrong size belt.

If there was misalignment, I'm sure the engine wouldn't run smoothly, or even start at all.

If you clear the DTCs, does the camshaft sensor error reappear every time, or is it intermittent ?

They whirring you hear after turning off the engine is most likely the swirl-throttle control motor attempting to recalibrate against it's stop positions. This is normal behaviour, but I think it should only recalibrate every 5 times the engine is turned on/off. I wouldn't worry about this now, however, if you're taking the top cover off, you definitely need to inspect the swirl flaps, control arm, link arm and motor. I'm certainly no expert, but have a read of what I went through: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...73#post2345373 it might help a bit.

[Ed Mac]

Originally Posted by Clan

your original engine is a D5244T5 part number 6906074

Got your PM, - but can't reply due to having posted less than 30 times. Here's what I tried to reply with.......

"Thanks, that would help massively. It's been in a garage for 8 weeks now and I'm not much further forward. Getting the previous VIN only yesterday didn't help.

As it happens, I'm away to see it just now - as a double check the timing belt will be refitted with the cam pinned which obviously requires the injectors and other gubbings at the top of the engine removed. I'm going to take the original injectors to the mechanic today and have them fitted instead of the ones that came with the 'new' engine. Hopefully that'll get over the re-coding issue.

It would be helpful if I knew what else needs re-coded. According to Haynes, the diesel pump might fit into this category.

Thanks again - what you've provided is a great help."

Obviously, feel free to PM me again - I'll respond in here!

[Ed Mac]

Originally Posted by Semnoz

If there was misalignment, I'm sure the engine wouldn't run smoothly, or even start at all.

If you clear the DTCs, does the camshaft sensor error reappear every time, or is it intermittent ?

The car starts sometimes, other times it takes an absolute age - to the point the battery almost goes flat. When it doesn't start (more often than not) I get the same error message.

After Clan provided some info last night I hope to a bit more forward with it today.

[Ed Mac]

Originally Posted by Clan

your original engine is a D5244T5 part number 6906074

Meant to add - when I was decoupling the gearbox from the old engine or mating it to the 'new,' I accidentally broke the casing of the crank sensor. Thinking they were the same, I used the one from the other engine. Do you know if these parts are the same?

Also, when changing the timing belt, aux belt and AC belt, I sourced the parts using the VIN from the original engine. I assume these are also compatible with the 'new' engine?

Thanks again. This is a bit of a break through!

[tommyweaves]

Originally Posted by Ed Mac

I accidentally broke the casing of the crank sensor.

I'd re-check that part AND the wiring for it. There was a post on here not long ago where a starting problem was traced back to chafed wiring to the crank sensor.

Look at post #75 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=269926

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Ed Mac

Meant to add - when I was decoupling the gearbox from the old engine or mating it to the 'new,' I accidentally broke the casing of the crank sensor. Thinking they were the same, I used the one from the other engine. Do you know if these parts are the same?

Also, when changing the timing belt, aux belt and AC belt, I sourced the parts using the VIN from the original engine. I assume these are also compatible with the 'new' engine?

Thanks again. This is a bit of a break through!

yes the sensor and bracket are the same .

[Semnoz]

Originally Posted by Ed Mac

the timing belt will be refitted with the cam pinned which obviously requires the injectors and other gubbings at the top of the engine removed.

I'm concerned you're going to run into a load of hassle trying to remove those injectors.

I'm not sure what you mean by pinning the camshaft. You can use a locking device on the pulley if you are really worried about it spinning round when you remove the timing belt. The point I'm making here is that you don't need to take the top cover off to pin the camshaft in place - just get something to lock the pulley.

Why are you removing the top cover to make sure the camshaft is definitely in the correct position in relation to the crankshaft ? This would imply you don't trust the marking on the camshaft pulley.

If indeed you want visual proof by looking directly at the camshaft, you can peer through the hole that the camshaft sensor fits in and see one of the lobes of the camshaft from there. You'll need to compare with a known working engine of course. However, I still don't see how your timing can be out if the engine runs fine once started

I still think you have a wiring fault. I'd unravel all the black tape of the wiring going to your crankshaft and camshaft sensors and injector solenoids and look for broken insulation that's causing an intermitten short circuit.