Engine: TD: Turbo ? Is this the end?

[Baffler]

You might also want to check the alternator is spinning freely and the anti-vibration pulley is doing it's job. I can't remember, off the top of my head, which direction the clutch works but if you remove the auxiliary belt (note/sketch down the sequence) and twist the alternator pulley quickly, say clockwise, and then as it's spinning grip the pulley between your thumb and index finger, the main rotor should continue to spin.

A bit more info >in this thread< but you may need the Mozilla/Firefox Photobucket viewer patch file to view the pics.

[DC6839]

Some good "food for thought" replies. The alternator has now started charging again although it does have a slight squeek. Have got a retired mechanic friend coming to look at the engine tomorrow, armed with a "stick" to listen where the noise is coming from. Be good if it was the alternator and not the turbo but can't see why that would have an effect on the lack of power. Will update later tomorrow.

[bobthecabbage]

The small bearing next to the alternator brushes gets worn out due to carbon from the brushes being pushed in there.

The little cap over the brushes fills up with carbon and it gets into the bearing.

So if you have an alternator that is fine, it is worth taking the cap off and emptying the dust out every now and then.

I'd normally say if you are getting intermittent non charging from the alternator then remove the brushes and brighten up the copper of the slip rings but if the bearing has gone, its a waste of time unless you are going to replace the bearing as well (a bit involved but see youtube for how to do alternator bearings).

[DC6839]

My mechanic friend has had a listen and a drive of the car and does not think its the turbo (but then again it could be). He suggested I changed the fuel filter as the car has an astonishing lack of power. Fuel filter changed and the car is a little better but the noise is still there (above 2,000 rpm)and power is way down making it a struggle to go up any hills (even slight rises are difficult). It does now rev a lot better so the filter was part of the problem. I have ordered a replacement alternator as mine is intermittent. So where do I go from here ? Would a DICE identify the problem?

[DC6839]

Still scratching my head over this one and getting no nearer solving the problem. Car starts and idles well but has no power when driving. At about 2000rpm there is a very harsh "rattling" noise which is a lot louder inside the car than outside. I have done recordings both inside and outside the car, neither of which really show the level of the noise (think it maybe something to do with the noise leveling system on my camera) but I can't upload it as it's too big and I have forgotten my youtube password. If anyone wants to listen, please email me. Don't think it's connected but the alterntor works, then stops working, at random but mostly alright when cold. Apart from letting the local dealer have a look, which will no doubt be costly, I don't really know what to do. Most importantly, I don't want to see "old faithful" go to the scrap yard !
HELP !

[loely]

It is a log shot but I had a Volvo truck and had at some point overnight a problem with power lost. I would get out and puch it to go uphill.
After several days of searching I found a rag in the admission tube. How it came there?????.You never know.Is it possible to search in all the tubes and pipes?I would think even without turbo it must drive better than you discribe.
It is a logs shot........

[DC6839]

Worth a look. A friend has also suggested another possible situation. I had the cambelt changed about 5 months ago so could it have "jumped" a notch as it was not tight enough?. Will do some research to find out how to see the timing marks.

[DC6839]

Appears cambelt is correct, although removed and reset to make sure . Not fully back together for test but doubt that was the problem. Should the waste gate only have 2 positions, open and closed? Unfortunately the car is getting ever nearer the scrapyard in the sky (boo hoo)

[bobthecabbage]

If your car is the 115bhp version then there is no waste gate, its a variable vane turbo.

There should be quite a strong spring force on the actuator but you should be able to move it up and down manually.

When you start the car I believe the vacuum should pull the actuator up. Then if you watch when someone revs it, the actuator should bob up and down.

If that seems to work then you can probably rule out a vacuum/boost regulator problem. Have you had a look at the turbo by taking off the pipe (engine off) and checking the vanes are intact, it spins and doesn't move up and down or in and out too much?

To be honest that check is not 100% as the turbo can be broken in the middle and one end will still spin.

Loss of power can be EGR valve, MAF sensor, MAP sensor as well as turbo failure.

[DC6839]

Took my Volvo to a well recxommended garage (ex Volvo Dealer employee) and a diagnostic computer was attached. After much searching a split rubber pipe that connects the turbo to the intercooler was found, plus the Air Mass Meter (AMM) was not working. Today a new rubber pipe was fitted and the car ran but had a "lag" until the turbo kicked in. The AMM (Hass) was then changed and the engine ran "WORSE", Turbo checked (removing pipes and exhaust) and found to be good. Put the original AMM back on and slightly (only very slightly) better but no power. After much head scratching the car was driven home (16 miles) and only just made the trip. The car now smokes, black smoke, worse over 2000 rpm and has absolutely no power, even slight inclines are a problem. Mechanic is stumped and so am I !!! There was no labour charge for over 2 hours work, which is very fair. Think the scrapyard will have a new occupant. Thoughts ???