|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
Setting up a Stromberg on ex-LPG carViews : 744 Replies : 5Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Apr 15th, 2024, 06:54 | #1 |
New Member
Last Online: Apr 30th, 2024 09:10
Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: Bernay
|
Setting up a Stromberg on ex-LPG car
Hi all,
My Amazon 121 came from Holland, and was a bi-fuel car, with an extra LPG system. I had the LPG tank, the pipe work and the electrics removed before I took delivery of the car, as it wasn't homologated for use here in France. The car is a late 1968 model with a B20a 2 litre engine and a single Stromberg carb. It always starts cleanly from cold (less so from hot), and I never need to use the choke, which I'm told is an anomaly. Also, it drinks fuel at quite an alarming rate. Recently I met some Volvo enthusiasts and they suggested that the needle and jets used on these LPG-equipped cars are different from regular cars, which might account for the fuel consumption, hot starting and chokeless cold start issues. They suggested I change the needle, the jets and set the carb up properly for petrol-only. Can anyone confirm this diagnosis, and if so, which needle and jets should I be looking into? Many thanks, Ric |
Apr 15th, 2024, 10:52 | #2 | |
Senior Member
Last Online: Today 07:04
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: MILTON KEYNES
|
Quote:
|
|
Apr 15th, 2024, 16:41 | #3 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 18:10
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Beekdaelen
|
Hi Ric,
only driving on LPG the jet and needle (and piston) in the carb aren't functional (they could be removed from the carb if never driving on petrol). So no special needle and jet is used for LPG. But driving on LPG results in a clearly quicker as normal wearing of needle and jet (no fuel flow seperating them from each other). The gap between them eventually will get way out of the gap needed for petrol driving and results in a very high petrol use, not having to use the choke and bad starting hot on petrol (too rich). So rebuilding the carb (at least new jet and needle, and I assume also the throtle valve axle and bearings) will have to be done. succes, nullifie |
Apr 15th, 2024, 19:58 | #4 | |
New Member
Last Online: Apr 30th, 2024 09:10
Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: Bernay
|
Quote:
Thanks again ! |
|
Apr 16th, 2024, 09:28 | #5 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 20:58
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
|
Start with setting the fuel mixture at idle as per the Volvo green book instructions and then see how things go. If it’s set to run very rich at idle then it’s going to be running rich when normal driving as well, even if the correct needle is fitted.
Consider a wide band O2 sensor and gauge fitted to the exhaust, makes it easy to set idle mixture accurately and then check air/fuel mixture when driving. You can use this to ensure you have the correct needle fitted.
__________________
One day I will get rid of all of the rust. |
Apr 16th, 2024, 09:47 | #6 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 20:58
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
|
Also I’d recommend only buying carb parts from Burlen in the U.K., especially the diaphragm. I’ve bought aftermarket ones and they’re not good. I personally replace the diaphragm annually and keep a spare in the car. If the car is new to you it’s a good idea to replace it. Make sure when you screw the carb top back on after replacing the diaphragm that the alignment line on the carb top matches with the line on the carb body. See attached photo. It’s a 5 minute job. Change diaphragm and set the fuel mixture at idle and see how she runs then.
__________________
One day I will get rid of all of the rust. Last edited by Burdekin; Apr 16th, 2024 at 09:50. |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|