I said i'll be back!

[Laird Scooby]

Funny you should mention the second blb in the headlight switch - it has a working LED in it but for some reason won't illuminate! Spent about 3 hours checking, double checking that one! I suspect the headlight switch may have a fault as the instruments don't illuminate when in the "0" position with the engine running (i.e. day running lights operational) but do come on with the side and head lights.
Also fixed my sunroof - besides lack of lube on the mech it turned out to be the switch which i repaired - apologies if i've already mentioned that, haven't time to re-read the thread/post as i've been without internet since friday afternoon and for some unknown reason my phone number has also changed mysteriously! BT Openreach have some explaining to do!
For now i've connected to a BT Hotspot on my laptop, just so i don't have too many emails etc to read/deal with when it gets sorted! Already got 86, just since friday morning and it's only sunday evening now!

Anyway, back to the interesting stuff! Changed my 'stat today (got pics of the old one which i'll upload when i have real internet again!) and it was the original judging from the date stamp of 2-88 on it! There was a separate temperature rating of 88C just in case you are thinking the same as i first thought, i was reading the temperature rating by mistake!

Also found (and more importantly fixed!) a loose connection on the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator, it also had a pinhole 3/4" from the end so chopped about an inch off it and reconnected. Oddly the smell of fuel while driving has disappeared!

While under the bonnet, i checked the small bore breather tube on the manifold stub and the hose that goes on it. Slightly blocked so WD40 to the rescue, cleaned it out.

The temperature gauge now gets to the haflway point within about 4-5 minutes of starting, the engine is smoother, quieter and a lot livelier!

Maybe once i sort that front to middle exhaust blow (gasket landed already) i can now get the mpg to creep above the 15 point!

I've also fitted a pair of LED headlight bulbs, they don't seem to have given such good results as previously but the alignment is still out so maybe that's the problem. Granted they were a set of ebay cheapies but better than the basic H4 bulbs they replaced!

That's about it for now, hopefully get those pics uploaded soon!

[rwdkev]

Originally Posted by AndysR

Is yours fitted with a cat

88F is too early for cat. Car would also have "catalyser" badge on tailgate if so equipped.

[rwdkev]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I suspect the headlight switch may have a fault as the instruments don't illuminate when in the "0" position with the engine running (i.e. day running lights operational) but do come on with the side and head lights.

This is exactly how it should work on all cars with later dashboard (760 mk2, all 960/90). It's cars with earlier type of dash (all 740/940, 760 mk1) have instruments lit in all headlamp switch positions.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by rwdkev

88F is too early for cat. Car would also have "catalyser" badge on tailgate if so equipped.

Agreed it's too early for a mandatory cat but i believe they were an optional extra from about 87 onwards, i'm sure i've seen an 87/E reg 740 with the dreaded "PARALYSER" badge on the back end.

Thankfully mine isn't a debadged cat version, not even a sniff of a Lambda sensor either (although i may add a pair if i convert to LPG) which is also good news at the moment.

On another note, i checked the headlamp adjustment today and as i suspected the drivers headlamp was aimed at the nearside kerb where the passenger side headlight was aimed - WRONG!!!!
A few minutes tweaking of the knobs had it pointing where it should with a good (although not perfect) beam pattern and a good improvement in output over the H4 bulbs, much whiter and clearer vision at night as well.
They're still a smidge low so i may tweak them a little again tomorrow, i was aligning them in bright sunlight so had to go for the "best guess" at where the cut off was on the beam pattern.

[rwdkev]

Originally Posted by AndysR

It took me a while but every little bulb in mine now works, including the seatbelt stalks on the front seats

Yes, a typical thoughtful Volvo touch but a pity it was dropped on later cars...

[AndysR]

Originally Posted by rwdkev

Yes, a typical thoughtful Volvo touch but a pity it was dropped on later cars...

Must confess I do think it's a nice addition and was disappointed to see they'd dropped it when I bought my 850, and also the lack of passenger seat belt warning on both the 760 and 850 as my parents old '86 had a seatbelt warning facility for both the passenger and drivers front seats.

[AndysR]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Agreed it's too early for a mandatory cat but i believe they were an optional extra from about 87 onwards, i'm sure i've seen an 87/E reg 740 with the dreaded "PARALYSER" badge on the back end.

Thankfully mine isn't a debadged cat version, not even a sniff of a Lambda sensor either (although i may add a pair if i convert to LPG) which is also good news at the moment.

On another note, i checked the headlamp adjustment today and as i suspected the drivers headlamp was aimed at the nearside kerb where the passenger side headlight was aimed - WRONG!!!!
A few minutes tweaking of the knobs had it pointing where it should with a good (although not perfect) beam pattern and a good improvement in output over the H4 bulbs, much whiter and clearer vision at night as well.
They're still a smidge low so i may tweak them a little again tomorrow, i was aligning them in bright sunlight so had to go for the "best guess" at where the cut off was on the beam pattern.

Agreed, so thank goodness it's not got one. It's amazing how much the V6 power output is affected with the addition of a cat.. I dread to think how it feels to drive, with mine I quite like how the power progresses as the revs increase whilst it's climbing it's torque curve and gaining momentum.

Come on then!! Where's the pictures..?

[rwdkev]

Originally Posted by AndysR

before your system is regassed you'll have to have it converted to enable you to gas it for the later gas, Volvo did do a kit but I believe it's NLA, I had a quote from a company local to me and they said it could be up to £500, needless to say my 760 still has a/c that doesn't work.. Currently...

A long time ago I ran a 90H 765 B280F as an everyday car for 5 years. Luckily for me the previous owner had spared no expense on its upkeep including having it converted from R12 to R134 and by a Volvo dealer. It was my first 6-cyl with A/C and I've had nothing else ever since!

Amongst others, I now have a 90G 765 D24 but unfortunately that is still R12 and out of gas due to fractured metal pipe. Again previous owner had spent a lot on the cars maintenance but had decided not to extend this to having the A/C fixed. One day I will attempt this myself as I already have an R134 compatible compressor from a 940 and donor conversion parts from a 960. If I can't get hold of a decent used one, I'll just fine someone who can weld thin wall aluminium tube lol!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by AndysR

Must confess I do think it's a nice addition and was disappointed to see they'd dropped it when I bought my 850, and also the lack of passenger seat belt warning on both the 760 and 850 as my parents old '86 had a seatbelt warning facility for both the passenger and drivers front seats.

All the other Volvos i've ever owned had the passenger seat warning as well - not tested this one with a passenger yet but daresay i will at some point.
I forgot about the bulbs in the seat belt stalks, i'll have to dig the LEDs out again! Also given me an idea about an add-on for my other cars!

Originally Posted by AndysR

Agreed, so thank goodness it's not got one. It's amazing how much the V6 power output is affected with the addition of a cat.. I dread to think how it feels to drive, with mine I quite like how the power progresses as the revs increase whilst it's climbing it's torque curve and gaining momentum.

Come on then!! Where's the pictures..?

When i was just a young pup i owned (for about a day!) a Pug 604 V6 with the B27 engine in it and although nice and smooth, it felt like you could do your kntting while waiting for it to gain speed!
I did give mine some beans yesterday and was quite surprised how much quicker it launched now the thermostat works properly! It took off more like a 2.8 V6 should do instead of an asthmatic 1.8 with a missing plug lead!

Still waiting for my internet/phone line to be fixed and have logged on to a BT Hotspit again, too slow to upload pics and also not greatly secure. Doesn't work through the day due to too much interference so makes it an expensive hour or two at night!

Originally Posted by rwdkev

A long time ago I ran a 90H 765 B280F as an everyday car for 5 years. Luckily for me the previous owner had spared no expense on its upkeep including having it converted from R12 to R134 and by a Volvo dealer. It was my first 6-cyl with A/C and I've had nothing else ever since!

Amongst others, I now have a 90G 765 D24 but unfortunately that is still R12 and out of gas due to fractured metal pipe. Again previous owner had spent a lot on the cars maintenance but had decided not to extend this to having the A/C fixed. One day I will attempt this myself as I already have an R134 compatible compressor from a 940 and donor conversion parts from a 960. If I can't get hold of a decent used one, I'll just fine someone who can weld thin wall aluminium tube lol!

Weld thin wall aluminium tube???? Why not buy yourself a brake pipe flaring kit, tube bender and cutter? I used this method (the pipe flaring kit anyway) to repair an air compressor i bought on fleabay for a mind blowing £25 - Machine Marts service department wanted £15 for a new pipe and it had fractured about 1/4" from the end so i just squared it up with the tubing/pipe cutter, got the union nut on followed by the pipe flaring tool and wound the handle until it had a nice flare on the end. Offered it up, wound the union nut on, tightened it up and tested - bingo!

Cost of the flaring kit, tube benders and pipe/tubing cutter? About £16 delivered from fleabay and i already had it as i needed most of it to fit the LPG kit on my 827 coupe so it had already paid for itself.

Like your thinking though about using a later compressor, fairly sure the evaporator, condensor, TXV, receiver dryer etc will be the same for both but i would have to check. Maybe i'll have my A/C working on the 760 after all!

On the subject of air-con, one of the typical leaks is from the valve core of the service valves, mainly the LP (Low Pressure/smaller/blue) Service Port Valve located on the A/C pipework. They can be tested by removing the dust cap, either spraying some washing up liquid solution of "heavily licking" your finger and spreading it on the top - either a bubble will appear or if the A/C is running (unlikely if it's leaking) it will be sucked in.
Sometimes a squirt of WD40 can effect a cure (revives the rubber seal in the valve, very similar to tyre valve cores but NOT the same) but there is a tool on ebay for about £13 to change the valve core without having the system evacuated :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3915134420...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That's the R134a version, clip it onto the service valve, open the gate valve on the side, push the plunger down and turn to engage with the valve core (a spot of grease on the end will help retain the core) and while holding the plunger with thumb pressure on the top, undo the valve core by turning the plunger anticlockwise. Once the core is free, let the plunger rise gently, close the gate valve and then undo the plunger using the knurled collar on the main tool body.
Recover the valve core, put a new one in the end of the plunger with a little grease to hold it, then "Haynes it" - refitting is the reversal of removal.
Valve cores are available from the same seller too :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3616340305...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Might save someone a lot of money having the system evacuated just to change a valve core!

[Laird Scooby]

After what seems like an eternity, i have t'internet again!

Here are some pics of the underbonnet and interior, followed by some of the old thermostat and whatever else i haven't put pics up of!











Apart from a few bits and pieces of stuff i've been using, it's pretty tidy inside and under the bonnet. Couldn't resist that long side shot either, the way the sun was glinting on it just set it off nicely.

For comparison, i've shown the old and new thermostats side by side here



Also the date stamp and temperature rating of the old 'stat



Look how badly skew-whiff that valve plate is on the old 'stat!



Since fitting the new 'stat the coolant level has stayed where it should be, it's warmed up to where it should be a lot quicker than it even thought of moving the needle and generally been better all round - even on cold starts!

Still a long list of "sillys" to sort (drivers seat height adjustment for a start!) and obviously the usual fluid changes etc but it's coming together nicely!