940 auto transmission glitch

[Laird Scooby]

That's handy Simon, bookmarked it now, thanks!

[760Simon]

In the office on my own should be doing paperwork but you know what its like I get bored and my mind wounders onto all things Volvo

[960kg]

Originally Posted by stegreg

One things ive read a lot about is the overdrive relay....and its fondness to melt the solder on the connections....would it be worth giving this a check... but if yes, where is it mounted on a 1995 SE? as cant see a white topped relay in the main fuseboard, other than the fuel relay. is there a second relay panel somewhere?

You are quite correct in stating the relay could be at fault as mine was.

The relay can and does have a type of problem that cause intermittent changing up to and out of 4th or overdrive?

Mine was situated behind the ashtray /radio on the dash in a largish receptacle of relay`s.



Click on blue auto transmission in Location 12........

https://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe....al/700_0_3.htm


.................................................. ..

I have been reading the whole thread and is the OP mistaking Torque Converter Lockup with the auto changing gear?

If it drops out of what he thinks is 4th gear below 55/60mph then that is the lockup disengaging.....and when the throttle is touched again around that speed it will engage again?

This is how mine behaved OR have i not read all this properly?








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[stegreg]

Thanks "960kg", unfortunately there seems to be a vast difference in relay layouts/locations between a std 940 and an "SE", as the image you refer to looks nothing like the setup in mine. where the white topped relay is, there is a long rectangular relay, sitting across the box, almost taking up 2 relay points, but there is only a single set of connectors underneath. plus this is for the 700 series my freind.
kindly be aware some later 940's do differ.

Unfortunately there are a few differences between the ranges, from above "basic level", and this is where some confusion lies.

Thanks also for the VIN decoding pages, unfortunately the pages dont show older cars as mine is listed as a '96 version, according to Volvo. I did speak again to them today and asked them to check out the vin for box details, but even their system cant go no deeper than "AW71"....no letters showing after it, so will be down to a crawl underneath to find the identity plate.

However good news, they still list a kickdown cable and is available from classic parts. This has been duly ordered.

1/ I will do another oil change in the meantime, as the parts are going to be a week or so away.

BUT
2/ what i will do is after also ordering a sump gasket from an other source [as no longer stocked by Volvo], I will drop off the sump pan, change the kickdown cable, clean out the sump pan, drop off the strainer plate and flush out, then refit with new gasket.
Sorry cant do these jobs as seperates, as not wanting to risk damaging the gasket by removing several times.

So have the backup plan "C" ready for mid January.

[Laird Scooby]

This is just delving further into the above link but shows the 900 for 1996 :

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/vin_900.shtml

Volvo 940 960 VIN Plates

1800 | 200 | 300 | 400 | 700 | 850 - 900 | 40/50 | 60 | 70 | 80 | 90 | XC90

This information will help you to understand the information on the VIN plate of your Volvo car.

Click on the model series number above

Example VIN Number:

YV1X44872R1123456
YV1 X44 87 2 R 1 123456
Manufacturer Code Vehicle Type Engine Type Gearbox Model Year Factory Code Chassis number

Manufacturer Code
YV1 = cars YV2 = trucks YV3 = buses YV4 = multipurpose 4V1 = trucks 4V2 = 4V3 =
4V4 = trucks 4V5 = trucks 4V6 = 4VL = 4VM = 4VZ = MHA = PT. Central Sole Agency

Engine Type
20 = B200G 21 = B200FT 22 = B200GT/td> 25 = 204FT 27 = B200F 74 = D24TIC 80 = B230G 81 = B230FK 82 = B230GT W/O EGR, W/O TWC 83 = B230FD Pulsair + EGR 84 = B230GK
85 = B230FB 86 = B230FT EGR, TWC 87 = B230FT W/O EGR, TWC 88 = B230F 92 = B6244S 93 = B6254S EGR, TWC 95 = B6304S TWC 96 = B6304S TWC 98 = B6304GS W/O TWC 99 = B6254S W/O EGR, W/O TWC ---

Gearbox
1 = M90 2 = M46 3 = M47 5 = ZF22 6 = "AW" LOCK-UP 7 = "AW" W/O LOCK-UP

Model Year
R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998

Factory Code
0 = Sweden, Kalmar Plant 1 = Sweden, Torslanda Plant VCT 21(Volvo Torslandaverken) (Gothenburg) 2 = Belgium, Ghent Plant VCG 22 3 = Canada, Hatdfax Plant 4 = Italy, - Bertone models 240 5 = Malaysia, 6 = Australia,
7 = Indonesia, A = Sweden, Uddevalla Plant (Volvo Cars/TWR (Tom Walkinshaw Racing)) B = Italy, - Bertone Chongq 31 D = Italy, - Bertone models 780 E = Singapore, F = The Netherlands, Born Plant (NEDCAR) J = Sweden, Uddevalla Plant VCU 38 (Volvo Cars/ Pininfarina Sverige AB)

Model Year From 1980
A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991
N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 Y = 2000 1 = 2001 2 = 2002 3 = 2003
4 = 2004 5 = 2005 6 = 2006 7 = 2007 8 = 2008 9 = 2009 A = 2010 (code restarted) B = 2011 C = 2012 D = 2013 E = 2014 ---
940

Location of the Chassis/VIN Plate
On a riveted metal plate on the nearside front inner wing. The number shows Volvo security marks.

Visible VIN
Viewed through the near side of the windscreen on a black metal plate.

Stamped Number
On the centre of the of bulkhead.

Location of Engine Number
On the top rear offside of the block on a horizontal lug in a dot matrix format.
960

Location of the Chassis/VIN Plate
On the offside of the slam panel.

Stamped Number
Stamped into the offside drivers 'B' Post adjacent to the door catch. Security marks stamped at the beginning and end of the number.

Location of the Engine Number
On the nearside center of the block.

Should be able to find out if yours is a lock up box or not, it will have 6 (lock up) or 7 after the engine code which i think will be either 86 or 87 on yours and the model year will be S or T, depending whether 95 or 96 after the gearbox code.

[stegreg]

6 T

as in.
YV1 945816T
the remaining numbers left out for security.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by stegreg

6 T

as in.
YV1 945816T
the remaining numbers left out for security.

Working backwards (from the T) that's a 1996 with an AW Lock-up box, B230FK engine in a 945.

I wonder if the Lock-Up is set to kick in about 55-60mph and although it's coming in, for whatever reason (sticking brakes, handbrake or similar) it dropping out again.

Where does the temperature gauge get to when it's as hot as it normally gets?

***EDIT*** - just been having a look through some sources of reference, have a look at page 89 of this :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/serie..._US_Manual.pdf

It would appear lock-up is set to occur between 47-56mph so will also drop out at those speeds and the chances are, if you push too hard on the loud pedal, it will go out of lock-up until you reach the speed it thinks it should be at for that throttle input.

[Laird Scooby]

Even more digging found this :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

Page 56 is what you want, table on the right towards the bottom of it, B230FK/GK engine and AW71 with Lock-up, the Lock-up speed in the far right two columns are 98km/h in and 96km/h out.

That means the lock-up will engage at 61mph and drop out again at 59mph or thereabouts.

[stegreg]

I believe the lockup is working on the torque converter, but its still this overdrive issue, as the revs have never been so high when travelling on dual carriagways and motorways, its doing id say about 1200 rpm higher than before.
temp gauge is fine, only comes up to midway and sits there without going any higher. IF standing in heavy traffic and the electric fan cuts in, that engages when gauge reads between 2/3 and 3/4, but never any higher.

Im still thinking along the lines of maybe the kickdown cable, maybe its sticking inside the box, possibly due to a bit of fraying, considering the mileage, its rotated a fair few times in its life, ok so it gets a good coating of oil to reduce friction, buts its a steel wire at the end of the day.

I did say "thinking", im no expert, but like to consider all options.

[Laird Scooby]

If it's 55-60mph when the lock up engages then disengages as soon as you put your foot on the loud pedal, it's right on the "in/out" borderline so it will be in and out like a fiddlers elbow.

Try taking it faster and see if it stays in - note that when lock up comes in, it can feel not only like an extra gear change but also drop the engine speed considerably.

I still think you have old/dirty oil, you've only managed to change out about 4L so far which is about 1.5 part changes, i'd do another (proper) part-change and let the extractor pump pull out as much as possible by getting the suction pipe as far down the dipstick tube as possible and letting it run at least 20 minutes if not half hour.
It only sucks a litre every 5 minutes at the most, also try and have the car facing slightly downhill when you do it to get as much as possible out.