Bouncy front end

[richmac]

Hi,

Another item worth checking with those symptoms is the upper engine mount. When this fails, the engine is free to move around on its lower mounts which can make the car feel as though the suspension is worn.

Best rgeards,

Rich.

[Georgeandkira]

Do you do any car work yourself?

Do the fronts first but do not buy cheap struts or any pre-assembled "quick strut".

My experience with Bilsteins in other vehicles is why I'd recommend them.

I chose Sachs SuperTouring shocks and struts -said to be OEM and matches to originals- when I did this job on my 2002; same as your car.
In that case, the rears, which I also installed first, were so gone, the handling improvement was tremendous.

However, the Sachs front struts didn't read. I thought that odd as both fronts were weak and leaking stinking, viscous fluid.

Also, upon disassembly, the bearing plates looked shiny and almost new. I shot some grease into the bearing raceway and reused them.

Similarly, the mounts -essentially a one piece rubber part- looked brand new without a trace of crazing or cracking. I reused them with complete confidence.

Changing these things is not that difficult a task. Order replacement bearings and mounts from a quality source which will let you return them if not needed.

Install replacement sway bar links. They can legitimately go anytime around 70K and you'll likely butcher them during disassembly.

Every time I've done this job -that'd be 6 times, so I'm an expert, Ha-ha- I've carefully eyeballed and marked the location of the struts' base. I installed the replacements in the same location (no trick to that) and I've never needed an alignment. Believe me....never did a tire wear unevenly after a strut job.
Going to a garage might require a post job realignment. While not a bad idea, it isn't always a needed service.

[S60inFrance]

Originally Posted by richmac

Hi,

Another item worth checking with those symptoms is the upper engine mount. When this fails, the engine is free to move around on its lower mounts which can make the car feel as though the suspension is worn.

Best rgeards,

Rich.

Thanks for that suggestion, I will check.

[S60inFrance]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

Do you do any car work yourself?

Do the fronts first but do not buy cheap struts or any pre-assembled "quick strut".

My experience with Bilsteins in other vehicles is why I'd recommend them.

I chose Sachs SuperTouring shocks and struts -said to be OEM and matches to originals- when I did this job on my 2002; same as your car.
In that case, the rears, which I also installed first, were so gone, the handling improvement was tremendous.

However, the Sachs front struts didn't read. I thought that odd as both fronts were weak and leaking stinking, viscous fluid.

Also, upon disassembly, the bearing plates looked shiny and almost new. I shot some grease into the bearing raceway and reused them.

Similarly, the mounts -essentially a one piece rubber part- looked brand new without a trace of crazing or cracking. I reused them with complete confidence.

Changing these things is not that difficult a task. Order replacement bearings and mounts from a quality source which will let you return them if not needed.

Install replacement sway bar links. They can legitimately go anytime around 70K and you'll likely butcher them during disassembly.

Every time I've done this job -that'd be 6 times, so I'm an expert, Ha-ha- I've carefully eyeballed and marked the location of the struts' base. I installed the replacements in the same location (no trick to that) and I've never needed an alignment. Believe me....never did a tire wear unevenly after a strut job.
Going to a garage might require a post job realignment. While not a bad idea, it isn't always a needed service.

Yes, I'm a frequent spanner turner for my own cars and friends. I have a scissor lift too which makes jobs much easier!

With regards to the new struts, I've looked at several options and currently favour Monroe, with both Sachs and Mapco in the list too.

I'll check the engine mounts before I do anything else.

[S60inFrance]

OK, I need to check something with my fellow volvo-ists....

I've checked the upper engine mount and to me it appears to have failed because the rubber is not attached to the aluminium housing, at least that's what I expect? The item in the following link is the same as the one fitted. The reason I am checking is that I also appear to be able to buy the rubber on it's own which is confusing me a bit.

So my question is, am I right, should the rubber be attached to the aluminium?


https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...upper/1013207/

[Simmy]

no the rubber is not connected to the outer it floats within the alloy part but the rubber dose wear with time..

[S60inFrance]

Originally Posted by Simmy

no the rubber is not connected to the outer it floats within the alloy part but the rubber dose wear with time..

OK thanks, that's different! How much play should there be, I can move it very easily.

[stuart bowes]

It's supposed to allow a certain amount of movement otherwise the transfer of vibration into the cabin is extreme (try fitting a polybush there and you'll immediately remove it)

In the case of diesel obviously it's even worse

The earlier style was a round bush solidly fixed but with voids cut in to allow more absorption

I wouldn't have thought that bush would be responsible for any bouncyness, more likely you'd just hear or feel extra clonkiness on pulling off the line (works in conjunction with the one underneath from Gearbox to subframe to stop rotational engine movement around the axle 'axis' )

[S60inFrance]

I have noticed an occasional clunk when pulling away from a stop, so the mount could be worth changing. As the rubber can be bought separately, is it easy enough to fit into the aluminium housing or is it better to get a complete new unit and save my knuckles?

[stuart bowes]

I would just get a new bracket, personally (and many may disagree) I'd save money there and just get any old new one from ebay

reason being it's not a highly stressed part and it's very easy to change a few years later in the unlikely event of it failing (personal labour time is minimal)

if you do go down the new insert route one thing to make sure is you definitely want to avoid polybush of any kind, make sure standard rubber only

and check the bottom linkage as well they can wear out. mine seemed tight enough in place, it wasn't until I took it off (5min job) I found it was all wobbly and shot. that one probably should be genuine OEM because it's a tighter fit and relies more on the bushes being good

you can 'repair' the bottom connector by cutting up a bike tyre inner tube and ramming the pieces into the voids in the knackered old bushes (temp. fix maybe)