C30 Engine : Oil changed, now won't start

[lotuseater]

We've just changed the oil on C30 1.6 DRIVe (diesel). While on the ramps (front end up about 8" - 10" ) engine started OK after filling with oil, and fine for at least a minute - no warning lights. We stopped engine and gently dropped car back onto ground, checked oil level with dipstick- fine - and then restarted engine as a final check.
It ran for about 5 - 10 seconds, then cut out and now will NOT restart. Just winds over. I can hear a buzzing/whirring noise from LH side/rear of engine (as you look from front of car) - is this the high pressure fuel pump? Have we got air into the system somehow? (I've heard some noises before when switching off, but not noticed this one)
I've connected our iCarsoft diagnostic tool, but there's are no obvious fault codes, other than fuel pressure is reading zero.

I have lots of experience with classics, but have not dealt with fuel injection before, so don't have a bleed kit (yet !). Would you concur this is the next thing to try? (and possibly replace the fuel filter at the same time).

Car has been running fine until now - done about 1,000 miles in the couple of months we've had it. The only odd thing, is that there is a wooden stick approx20mm square in section and 200mm long, wedged between the top of the fuel filter and the engine cover bracket. I had assumed this was to support the engine cover, as one of the locations is slightly damaged. I had removed this at some point in the process and wonder if it is somehow holding pressure on the fuel filter, but there is no obvious fault - nothing feel loose or wobbly on the fuel filter. It does just seem a bit suspicious.I have replaced stick, but has not 'cured' it.

Anything I can try before buying a pump kit?

(give me an old classic to work on any day !)

[oilit]

can you post a picture of your fuel filter area of your car and I can compare it to ours to determine why there was a bit of wood there in the first place?

My gut is telling me that your problem is in this area. No pressure in the fuel is your problem I would suggest.

Did you change the diesel fuel filter - and not bleed the system? if not how many miles and when was the filter last changed? (ours was going into limp mode recently and I changed the filter and bled the system and then problem was fixed - but equally there were no codes - just low fuel rail pressure - but it did start and restart after it cut out)

Did you smell diesel when you were turning it over? (I would refrain from excessive turn over /cranking until you get the root cause identified)

[lotuseater]

Thanks for reply 'Oilit'.
We haven't touched the fuel filter yet other than removing the stick.....
Only changed oil and oil filter.
Photos attached.
No diesel smells or signs of any leakage.
Not sure when fuel filter last changed - has done 104k miles now.Had fairly thorough servicing up to about 80k.

Going to order the filter and bleed pump anyway, as I'd be happier knowing it's been changed.

[oilit]

I think that's a good idea - I am intrigued by the stick - I will take a look at ours in the morning and post a picture - I am wondering if that has been put in to keep the filter pressed down into its place I am sure (from memory) there should be two nuts/bolts that hold the filter down - but you can't get to them until you remove the black metal frame that holds the rubber bung on it which the engine acoustic cover clips on to.

the good news is that the engine are shared with Peugeot and Ford Focus so if you need anything its is widely available.

[IainG]

Hi

We haven't touched the fuel filter yet other than removing the stick..

Unless the "stick" was pressing on a fuel connector or housing to stop an air leak.
I have a 2.0 D engine so not sure if the filters and connections are similar. On the 2.0d the "o" rings in the quick release connectors can sometimes let air in. I ended up doubling up the "o" rings in mine to stop air going back in.
I also believe the housings can sometimes leak as well.

Iain

[oilit]

There are loads of different suggestions on bleeding the system post filter change on here and elsewhere - so you may have your own way of doing it.

when I changed the filter, I had a spare can of diesel- and used the bleed pump to take diesel from the spare tank to the filter input, until it came out of the filter output point into a container (thus filling the filter), then I connected the two pipes up. Even then, it took 30 secs - 1 min of continuous cranking for it to try and start - essentially it got diesel into one of the injectors and tried to start, a bit more cranking and it finally got all four going - and it's been fine since.

HTH

[Welton]

Looks like a previous ham-fisted filter change, they probably sheared one of the allen bolts holding the black plastic header to the filter casing, the wood was probably holding the 'lid' tight and when you raised the car it allowed air into the filter housing the fuel to drain back to the tank.

I think a new filter replacement and bleed will sort this out.

[lotuseater]

Pretty much as you guys suspected - Welton hit the nail on the head.
Previous owner looks to have tried the method of priming th efilter by removing the heater element (black plastic lump) and then overtightened and stripped the thread on one of the 2 screws, thus the O ring underneath was not compressed enough to seal to th etop of the filter. Having the car jacked up must, as welton suggested allowed the fuel to drain back to the tank, hence a system FULL of air. The rubber bulb pump was pulling bubbles for ages and eventually we could feel th epressure build up and no longer se or hear bubbles being pushed back into the tank. 2nd quick turn of the key and it fired up as if nothing had happened ! My 17 yr old son (it's his car) and I feel like home mechanic gods this evening ! We didn't even swear at each other !
Photos attached to show the filter O ring etc. (for those eagle eyed enough to spot the plastic pipe is missing off the return, that's because we cut it off to use as a pipe adaptor to convert our bulb pump to give a suitable seal into the return fuel pipe - the one that came with the bulb pump was slightly smaller diameter and was sucking air.)
Thanks to the helpful comments. The stick might now get nailed to the garage wall as a reminder of bodgit fixes!
Hopefully, connecting up the fuel injection on my P1800ES when its eventually put back together will seem easy after this.

Fuel Filter.jpg

Fuel Filter - heater removed.jpg

[Welton]

Wow - that's great news.

There's no better feeling than fixing a potentially expensive issue like this yourself, I can't imagine how much a garage would have charged - and it would have needed recovering first.

To be honest over the last 5 years I've taken on the mechanical maintenance of our own 'fleet' including brake services and never looked back (I have had to buy a lot of additional kit though) and YouTube is a great educational tool.

I just recently changed the diesel filter on the Citroen - that is one of 'those' jobs quite famously awkward but a good YouTube guide walked me through the process ending with the 'primer bulb' pumpage which seemed ridiculous these days but very effective.

[oilit]

glad you have solved it !!! - You should frame that piece of wood as garage art !

Go on then post us a pic of your P1800 ES - that can be your thank you :-)