|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
Starter motor won’t disengage and keeps turningViews : 1644 Replies : 15Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Nov 22nd, 2020, 19:42 | #11 | |
Junior Member
Last Online: Mar 17th, 2023 06:04
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: St Albans
|
Quote:
The new solenoid does indeed have two terminals. One is the trigger and the other becomes positive when the starter cranks. That must be for a later car that needs this functionality. I’m hoping it’s just a problem with the starter unit and not within the bell housing as I’m ordering a replacement unit and feel hopeful that’ll fix it. I’ll be sure to update this as I go. Might be a while as it’s difficult to find time to get to the car and work on it currently. |
|
Nov 23rd, 2020, 01:50 | #12 |
Master Member
Last Online: Yesterday 15:52
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
|
On K jet and the later D jet equipped cars I think that 'extra' terminal was used to power up the cold start valve to apply extra fuel for starting.
|
Nov 29th, 2020, 08:17 | #13 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Mar 17th, 2023 06:04
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: St Albans
|
Just thought I'd update this as I have now resolved the problem. I fitted a new starter motor unit yesterday and it works fine. Went for a borg and beck unit with m12/100mm/1.75 pitch bolts.
Spins up and performs fantastic. I also started and drove the car for the first time in 26 years. I'll post an update of that on the thread I have for the car. |
The Following User Says Thank You to P1800 ES For This Useful Post: |
Nov 29th, 2020, 22:48 | #14 |
Master Member
Last Online: Yesterday 15:52
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
|
Good that it is fixed. By any chance did you ever figure out what the problem was with the original starter?
|
Nov 30th, 2020, 00:10 | #15 |
Member
Last Online: Sep 6th, 2023 19:43
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
|
Two things come to mind. The starter draws watts of power. Amps X volts = watts (power). Low voltage means higher amps to get the wanted wattage.
Low battery will cause excess amps to flow causing the plunger contact disc to overheat and stick (as in weld). This or just a bad solenoid. If you have disassembled the starter, you might have the fork in backwards causing the bendix drive to push out too far hitting the drive end housing and causing it the jam up (stick in place while spinning thus holding the contact disc in closed circuit). Or maybe you have the fork behind the bendix and not in its intended slot Or groove. There should be about 1/16 or so clearance between the bendix and the end housing when engaged. Or it could simply be the wrong solenoid. Usually but not always, the issue is in the starter assembly.
__________________
Licensed automotive mechanic - red seal Licensed heavy duty mechanic - red seal Vocational instructor - ret Death is nature's way of making it harder to get up in the morning. |
Nov 30th, 2020, 10:17 | #16 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Mar 17th, 2023 06:04
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: St Albans
|
I haven't yet investigated the fault with old starter motor. On the bench the new solenoid had a reassuring thump, so I don't think it was that. It's all still a bit of a mystery.
All i know is the new starter motor works just fine. I'll keep hold of the old starter and if I find time I'll investigate further. |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|