V70 D5 185 (2009) - MAP sensor fault?

[Stu B]

Originally Posted by Workinghprs

Stu, any tips for removing the boost sensor?

Sorry, just spotted this question - there’s some more detail and photos on post #40 on my thread here which might help.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=302878&page=4

[Stu B]

Originally Posted by AMac11

Hi guys ive got all the symptoms you've described above, did just replacing the sensor fix it all? i was going to strip and clean the throttle body as i've read somewhere that may also cause the issue? any help appreciated

Hi, yes replacing the sensor sorted it for me, 5000 miles covered since and no reoccurrence of the fault. If you have access to a fault code reader, preferably VIDA, it’d be worth reading through any errors on the car to confirm first though.

[AMac11]

Thats great, i've had a look a doesn't look like its going to be a simple switch it out as it looks like ill have to take the bumper off to look at it, unless you've got any tips?

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by AMac11

Thats great, i've had a look a doesn't look like its going to be a simple switch it out as it looks like ill have to take the bumper off to look at it, unless you've got any tips?

You can move the oil cooler & fan housing by undoing them enough to give you a bit more clearance, but its still tight. You don’t need to take them off totally.

[porterjamie]

Thread revival.
First post here - this forum is very good and theres lots of decent info, so thankyou everyone.
I thought id report my experience in case it was useful for anyone.

Had the exact same codes come up on my 2008 d5.
For info on changing the sensor - i removed the air box and the LH headlight for which you only need a screwdriver for the inlet trunking, and you just pull the metal tabs out of the slam panel for the light. getting the electrical connector off the headlight was the hardest bit!

No need to remove the bumper.

You can just get a 3/8" ratchet extension(s) with the T25 (i think its 25!) bit down from the headlight area. You need a torch so you can eyeball it. It helps to have an assistant, lie on the floor underneath and stick your fingers in and find the screw head and then guide the bit into the socket. the electrical connector came off easily. you can then ensure the screw doesnt get lost when you withdraw the bit, and then fetch it out with a magnet on a stick.

Remove the sensor by lying on the floor from the lower position, replace with new. Fit the screw using your magnet - go to lower position to get the magnet off it and guide the torx bit back in and job done. Airbox and headlight back in - i had to take the headlight out anyway because a bulb had gone. Im not sure if this is a coincidence or perhaps something more sinister in the electrical system is the base issue?

Only driven it a short test drive and it feels a lot perkier - it was mil light on and limp home though before sometimes.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Stu B

Here's the pics, not sure what's going on with the sizes but hopefully they work:\



Not sure why I'm getting a parking brake fault here too, but ignore that for now.








Any assistance appreciated, also - whether it's worth removing and cleaning the MAP sensor to try that before replacing it? The car has done 91,000 miles and I assume the part is original however.

Thanks
Stu

There are 3 barometric pressure sensors sometimes, one in the ECU, one in the inlet manifold and the one which you point out.

The one you point out is almost always the faulty one. the proper way to check is to read out all 3 sensors which should give the same reading with the ignition on and the odd one out would be the faulty one.

[macintyre]

Originally Posted by Clan

There are 3 barometric pressure sensors sometimes, one in the ECU, one in the inlet manifold and the one which you point out.

The one you point out is almost always the faulty one. the proper way to check is to read out all 3 sensors which should give the same reading with the ignition on and the odd one out would be the faulty one.

Hi Clan,
By following your recommendation, I checked readings of all pressure sensors. What kind of difference in readings is "normal"?
I have:
Barometric Pressure: 970 hPa
Boost Pressure Sensor: 986 hPa
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor: 968 hPa

[Clan]

Originally Posted by macintyre

Hi Clan,
By following your recommendation, I checked readings of all pressure sensors. What kind of difference in readings is "normal"?
I have:
Barometric Pressure: 970 hPa
Boost Pressure Sensor: 986 hPa
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor: 968 hPa

well 986 hPa is a fair it higher than the rest, The boost pressure sensor...

[VolvoReloaded]

Hi all, since I last posted I sold my S60 2.0T petrol and I bought an 2007 S60 D5 185hp about a year ago, last Saturday I hit a massive pothole, not only did it completely ruin the tyre but a day later the dreaded engine service system light came on. I have a obd2 reader and to cut a long story short I had to change the maf sensor and the map sensor all is well again now. It cost £29.99 for the map sensor and £37.50 for a correct second hand maf from ebay.