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Wrinkled door cards

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Old Sep 18th, 2010, 02:20   #21
SashaG
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Originally Posted by migrator View Post
Now lets try with the pics.
Wow, these covers look fabulous!
The next step could be having the dashboard leather clad as well
It'd make a super-royal grand deluxe 960
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Old Nov 23rd, 2021, 14:16   #22
colinstubbs
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I came across this Dutch chap today.....

'The Panelpads project was my personal new business contribution to owners of ‘youngtimer’ Volvo passenger vehicles. Panelpads was a range of innovative repairkits for the doorcards of the Volvo 940, the Volvo 960, the Volvo V90, and the Volvo V70 and Volvo S70 (1996 - 2000).
Panelpads products were sold worldwide. However, I had to discontinue this initiative because focus on the many true core-business assets in my portfolio required utmost attention.
But…. here I share the Panelpads technical drawings for free, in this way you can produce a Panelpads repairkit for yourself...

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...ScqxZ73Pr9ANdF

Hope this is of use to someone.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2021, 14:52   #23
TonyS9
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Originally Posted by V-Jet View Post
The glue was changed by the supplier / manufacturer of the door panels without informing Volvo, needless to say Volvo was not impressed by this. That's what I heard from a guy who's worked in Volvo design department since 1970.
When reconstructing my damaged 95 door and replacing with a different door I reused my perfect card with various bits from the new door I noticed that the construction is different. The clamps hold the edge of vinyl at the top much better in my good card, the design is very different in the wrinkly card.
The better one has no gaps in clamp at the edge, and the vinyl is wrapped around the the inner metal strip.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2021, 16:53   #24
Steve 940
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Hi Eddy,

Am currently in process of doing this on my 940, cards were really badly wrinkled on all 4 doors. Rears done, front still on the to do list!!!

As others have said, it seems a common problem to certain years and some eco adhesive that was used, not with great success long term judging by the state mine were in.

I did look on eBay but on mine, all the doorcards and map pockets etc. were virtually unmarked, only let down by top edge. I took the view to DIY a test on the rears, as if all failed, I would have to just source replacement somewhere online.

I was going to do a full write up with step by step photos, and I will do this when I do the fronts.

Basically get cards off, good guide on this forum.

I removed the metal strip that holds the rubber window scraper, this you need to do very very carefully. I had door panel on blanket upside down, and used some trim removal tools that had cranked levers to gently pry up inside edge. You can see where it has been crimped on the card with a number of dimples.

I took probably 20-30 mins gradually easing this strip off, using additional thin strips of timber under the ‘head’ of the lever as it gradually opened up the channel.

Once the strip is off, hairdryer on hot and with a plastic trim removal tool without sharp edges, gradually ease loose the wrinkled areas. Need to asses yours, my rear panels were bad right the length of the door card, but front cards only need each end 4-6".

On my rear panels I had to loosen the whole top section down to the roll line where panel goes vertical, as it had stretched so much. With panel upside down I clipped clothes pegs along the vinyl edge to help hold it away from the card.

Do some dry runs if you can just to get in your mind the amount of pull, stretch you will need to apply when re-gluing.

Evostick impact adhesive, red tin. Apply very thin smooth coat of adhesive to card and vinyl, make sure you don’t get lumps of adhesive. Wait 3-5 mins till touch dry.

Big deep breath, i done from centre to door hinge end first, stretch in middle and use small pressing tool, I used wallpaper joint roller around 1.5 inches wide, then gradually work your way to end of the door card. As I got to the end, I did have to tuck a fold in due to excess stretched vinyl. Can’t really see it, as in door hinge shut but will probably cut and glue on my fronts.

Area along to the locking knob cut out is worse to deal with as it's usually no longer a round hole in the vinyl, but will have stretched way out of shape.

I took decision to glue from middle to mid point of rear of locking button hole. Then from the corner pill and stretch the vinyl towards the lock, I ended up with overlap, then leaving around 20mm unglued I used a scalpel to slice through both layers. Then just need to glue the two sections butting up together.

I was obviously stretching it a bit when cutting as they didn’t butt together perfectly, around 1mm gap that I will ‘fill’ with several layers of grey undercoat paint. Still on my to do list, will do all 4 cuts, once front doors are done.

Then you need to trim any vinyl that is past the card edge, so that you can get metal strip back on. I then used a scrap strip of straight metal around 4-5mm thick and around 6" long to go into channel that was on a absolutely flat surface with a protecting blanket to gradually hammer open the channel further. Still wouldn’t easily go over card edge so I added a 12” steel rule alongside the metal strip, to again hammer the channel open wider.

Need to be very careful not to warp or scratch the metal strip.

After around 20 mins, channel simply went over card. Then need to work out how to re-crimp it back to the card. I used a pair of nail pulling pincers and with a hard plastic trim and removal tool over the metal strip to protect it from the pincers, I then gradually crimped strip back on the card. Seemed to work, but care is needed.

Then put everything back.

Couple of photos of completed rears enclosed with cut joint, not perfect by way better than they were. Of course we don't know how long the glue will last or if it will suffer in summer.

One photo of NSF door to give an idea of what I started with.

Cheers
Steve
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Old Nov 24th, 2021, 14:23   #25
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by Steve 940 View Post
Then you need to trim any vinyl that is past the card edge, so that you can get metal strip back on. I then used a scrap strip of straight metal around 4-5mm thick and around 6" long to go into channel that was on a absolutely flat surface with a protecting blanket to gradually hammer open the channel further. Still wouldn’t easily go over card edge so I added a 12” steel rule alongside the metal strip, to again hammer the channel open wider.

Need to be very careful not to warp or scratch the metal strip.

After around 20 mins, channel simply went over card. Then need to work out how to re-crimp it back to the card. I used a pair of nail pulling pincers and with a hard plastic trim and removal tool over the metal strip to protect it from the pincers, I then gradually crimped strip back on the card. Seemed to work, but care is needed.


Cheers
Steve
Steve
Great write-up Steve but first, i would suggest wrapping the excess vinyl round the edge of the card and only trimming once the glass wiper channel is back on.

Talking of which, if you look very carefully, you should see some "V" shapes punched out of it to form "claws" that grip the vinyl/leather. These can be released by sliding a steel rule or similar (feeler guage of reasonable thickness) to lift the point of the V/claw then the wiper channel eased off the door card. When refitting the wiper channel, ensure the channel slides on firmly then remove it again and use a small screwdriver or similar to push the point of the V/claw back out then push the wiper channel back onto the door card - it shouldn't be crimped.

I learned this when i refurbished/upgraded the door cards on my Rover, luckily i had some spare bits to play with! Luckily i have good door cards on my 760 and definitely agree that it was poorer quality leather/vinyl coupled with eco-glue that has caused the problems on later cars. Sadly common to the entire car parc, everything seemed to go downhile from the mid-90s onwards but some had already started slipping!
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Old Nov 24th, 2021, 20:27   #26
Steve 940
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Hi Dave,

Thanks for your comments, and yes I had forgotten the metal strip had some spring claw clips that secured the rubber scraper part, the rubber was fairly easy to release from the claws with SWMBO best mini spatula from the kitchen 😀 Needless to say, she was out!!
Kitchen tables are always much more comfortable to work on with endless tea, trouble is the job takes longer.
Sounds as though our trim strips were perhaps slightly different, as on mine, the metal edge that goes on the inside part of the door card, every 4-5" or so there was a very sharply formed single' dimple', obviously when made, I dare say a press punched these in to secure them to the card.
Try as I might I couldn't /daren't find a easy way to get the dimple out, so just reverted to opening the whole channel very very carefully, all done from the reverse side of the door card so as not to mark or warp the part that you can see.

As mentioned the front doors are next, and I was going to do a better write up with step by step photos, or do you feel there has been enough about this subject on the forum??

Cheers
Steve
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Old Dec 3rd, 2021, 17:49   #27
827Roverman
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Originally Posted by Eddy Matthews View Post
Has anyone sorted out badly wrinkled doorcards on a 960?

I'm after any hints and tips on doing them, apart from simply replacing with new or secondhand parts...

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated....

Regards
Eddy
every time I log onto the forum, it automatically takes me to this post, how can I stop this.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2021, 18:56   #28
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every time I log onto the forum, it automatically takes me to this post, how can I stop this.
It's a "Hotel California" situation for you I am afraid
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Old Dec 3rd, 2021, 22:32   #29
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Have you bookmarked this post on your device? Is it randomly stored in your cache of previously visited links? iPads seem good at that one. Have you got a tab open with it on? In the forum, have you subscribed to the thread?

A few things to look for. Good luck.
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