|
Performance Volvo Cars A forum for those interested in any Volvo performance car from any era, FWD, RWD and AWD! |
Information |
|
320bhp N/A 5 cylinder engineViews : 62690 Replies : 124Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jul 15th, 2010, 22:19 | #101 |
Trader
Last Online: Oct 20th, 2014 18:18
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: nottingham
|
hi austin, have enjoy'd reading your thread and look forward to your updates.
can i ask you who did the crank for you? also does anyone know if the 2l crank is a shorter throw than a t5? it looks it in the pic |
Jul 16th, 2010, 10:57 | #102 |
New Member
Last Online: Mar 21st, 2024 18:26
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: London
|
Hello
Please excuse my naivety but I'm not sure of the benefit of the ceramic coating. The risk in a open deck cast in iron liner engine is excessive temperature straining the liner and eventually cracking it. At 320bhp and NA, your peak temperatures will be lower than a turbo engine so you're probably on safe ground anyway. The ceramic coating acts as an insulator so the thermal transfer is reduced through the liner into the surrounding coolant. The head will therefore have to transfer via the head. I can see that insulating the liner will reduce its max temperature overall thus beneficial re the cracking issue. But that heat flow via the head may risk the head gasket. I can see that a coating which increases the head flow from the cylinder would not be good as that would increase the part temperature of the liner as more head flows in and then bottlenecks. Other ideas would be to increase the cooling rate like the S60R engine with a faster spinning water pump. Maybe overall now I can see that ceramic coating protects the peak temp of the liner. |
Jul 20th, 2010, 21:07 | #103 |
Pure is Beautiful
Last Online: Apr 13th, 2021 19:44
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: UK/
|
I would have thought the most obvious ways of reducing operating temp where poss are obviously by increasing your radiator capacity, adding an extra core is always a good idea, and fitting a high capacity fast flowing water pump.
Ceramic coating seems somewhat ott in this context, Austen Cheers, T
__________________
I Think. I Think I Am; Therefore I Am - I Think . . . . |
Jul 21st, 2010, 00:23 | #104 |
300 Register Keeper
Last Online: Yesterday 09:13
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Nottingham
|
My understanding is that we're talking about cooling within the block itself...transmission of heat *to* the coolant. That's something which only usually comes into play on modern engines when you're adding a *lot* of power.
cheers James
__________________
VOC 300-series Register Keeper '13 V70 D4 SE Lux '89 740 Turbo Intercooler '88 360 Turbo Intercooler '84 360 GLT '81 343 GLS R-Sport '79 343 DL '70 164 |
Jul 23rd, 2010, 21:21 | #105 | |
Pure is Beautiful
Last Online: Apr 13th, 2021 19:44
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: UK/
|
Quote:
The addition of an extra core to a rad, at this level, and beyond is a far more cost effective way of cooling than ceramic coating, and far more reliable. Cheers, T
__________________
I Think. I Think I Am; Therefore I Am - I Think . . . . |
|
Jul 24th, 2010, 00:26 | #106 |
300 Register Keeper
Last Online: Yesterday 09:13
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Nottingham
|
Yes, you'll always get transmission...but the rate of transmission can be varied...coolant passage size and 'depth', etc.
VG is concerned that ceramic coating the CC and exhaust ports may place an additional short-term thermal loan on the liners, which are known to be a weak point anyway. I suspect it won't cause a problem in an N/A application, but it's an interesting point. cheers James
__________________
VOC 300-series Register Keeper '13 V70 D4 SE Lux '89 740 Turbo Intercooler '88 360 Turbo Intercooler '84 360 GLT '81 343 GLS R-Sport '79 343 DL '70 164 |
Jul 24th, 2010, 19:44 | #107 |
Pure is Beautiful
Last Online: Apr 13th, 2021 19:44
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: UK/
|
The primary object is to get the coolant circulating round the block's water jacket and rad and cooled as quickly as possible.
The easiest and most efficient means of doing that is by employing a high flow rate water pump, a large core ( surface area ) rad, and large, fast fans to draw the heat from the rad as quickly as possible. It also helps if you can vent the hot air to the atmosphere. i.e. ouside of the engine bay. Were we talking of a 1,000 hp engine then the use of ceramics would be a sensible prospect; at 320 bhp, it's little more than very expensive window dressing. Cheers, T
__________________
I Think. I Think I Am; Therefore I Am - I Think . . . . |
Jul 27th, 2010, 02:00 | #108 |
300 Register Keeper
Last Online: Yesterday 09:13
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Nottingham
|
Let's look at this from a different angle. A guy on Tbricks had a B23 block (notorious for uneven cylinder wall thickness) collapse on him, so he did a half fill on it, and badly scored a piston through localised overheating. The rad and pump were perfectly adequate, but the heat wasn't getting to the coolant. A problem along those lines (albeit that's a more extreme scenario) is what I think VG is concerned about.
cheers James
__________________
VOC 300-series Register Keeper '13 V70 D4 SE Lux '89 740 Turbo Intercooler '88 360 Turbo Intercooler '84 360 GLT '81 343 GLS R-Sport '79 343 DL '70 164 |
Aug 19th, 2010, 10:10 | #109 | |
Junior Member
Last Online: Jun 28th, 2016 13:32
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lincolnshire
|
Quote:
2.3/2.4 crank is 90mm 2.5 crank is 92.5mm |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to austenw For This Useful Post: |
Aug 30th, 2010, 07:14 | #110 |
A yellow volvo lover
Last Online: Jun 2nd, 2011 20:16
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Haslemere Surrey
|
Hi Austen
Just wonering when the engine will be up and running i know these things take time ? A great project Russ |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|