Need help on a decision guys!!

[alexward]

Seen a lovely C70 T5 for not much money at all, fully loaded - http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classifi...easc&logcode=p
To be honest, the mileage worries me but if you look around for similar C70 T5's for sale, most of them are from traders. Most of them are £1000 more than this one, with not many less miles , for instance, there's a navy blue T5 on Ebay for £3000, its on a R plate with 110K!!! I've emailed the trader. he said he'll take £2500 for a quick cash sale! Then I find the above car for £1850 with 8K more on the clock! What do you guru's reckon? Does the above car look ok? Will it hold the mileage up well and do a lot more, or will everything start to go wrong? I dont want to be forking out loads of money. Just done that with my last poxy car!
Thanks guys.

[Trekker]

Thats not a lot of miles on one of these Alex, and should give very many more if it drives and checks out well friend. Looks ok, the shut lines around the NSF, check those out as the lights dont appear to line in the pic, but could be angles.

Like was said by others in your other thread, dont worry too much about miles on them, check for mechanical correctness and service records.

Looks ok to me..and I would say about the right money.

Good luck! T

[alexward]

Originally Posted by Trekker

Thats not a lot of miles on one of these Alex, and should give very many more if it drives and checks out well friend. Looks ok, the shut lines around the NSF, check those out as the lights dont appear to line in the pic, but could be angles.

Like was said by others in your other thread, dont worry too much about miles on them, check for mechanical correctness and service records.

Looks ok to me..and I would say about the right money.

Good luck! T

Thanks Trekker mate. Its a great price compared to other examples from dealers that are of similar age and mileage. About a grand less!!! I quite like the alcantara seats too.
If it were a good example, it would leave me money in my budget to get the wheels refurbed etc!

[Stuh1981]

I just purchased a 99 'V' plate C70 T5 a month ago with 68K for £2600, although this included a years warrnty, MOT and 6 Months tax, along with the timing belt and tensiner being replaced.

£1850 is really good value. My dad has an S70 that has never gone wrong and has been to the moon and back.

I would just make sure that it is mechanically sound. Since buying mine I have had to get the ETM replaced, but that was done under warranty thankfully.

[FCPGroton]

As long as all the maintenance is done and up to date, I would pick that car up in a heart beat. I just sold my Volvo 850 with 196K miles on it and it has the same engine as the C70 does. My 850 was well maintained and should keep going for a long time for the new owner.

[alexward]

Originally Posted by FCPGroton

As long as all the maintenance is done and up to date, I would pick that car up in a heart beat. I just sold my Volvo 850 with 196K miles on it and it has the same engine as the C70 does. My 850 was well maintained and should keep going for a long time for the new owner.

Thanks FCPGroton. I am leaning towards this car as it hasn't done many more miles than lots of others available in my price range and its vastly cheaper!
If it is mechanically sound i.e service history and it HPI's ok, i'll more than likely snap it up.
Does anyone know how much the cambelt change will cost me if I need to get this done, whichever car I choose?? And do you have to have the water pump changed at the same time? I had to on my last car.

[Paul240480]

I maybe shot for saying this...................

Cambelt Change: If it is a 'full Volvo' engine, then if all is quiet, nothing leaks & you can push the tensioner back in successfully (use a vice, or a workmate - you'll need a bit of metal plate on the pin if using the latter), then you can simply change the cambelt alone - may as well do the auxilliary belt too though. Did my 850 recently, it had around 150k on it then. If mileage is 'inter-galactic' & history is unknown, then do water-pump too.

If it is a later Ford derived engine, as in Ford W/pump & pulleys & tensioners, well........... best change em'

[acshortt5]

Originally Posted by Paul240480

I maybe shot for saying this...................

Cambelt Change: If it is a 'full Volvo' engine, then if all is quiet, nothing leaks & you can push the tensioner back in successfully (use a vice, or a workmate - you'll need a bit of metal plate on the pin if using the latter), then you can simply change the cambelt alone - may as well do the auxilliary belt too though. Did my 850 recently, it had around 150k on it then. If mileage is 'inter-galactic' & history is unknown, then do water-pump too.

If it is a later Ford derived engine, as in Ford W/pump & pulleys & tensioners, well........... best change em'

As a general note: if you decide to change the cambelt yourself then you WILL need to lock the cams. You can get a tool from IPD or make your own.

These are interference engines, if the cams go out of alignment you are going to bend valves and potentially wreck the engine.

Cambelts are one of the few jobs that I pay the main dealer to do simply for peace of mind that it's been done properly and if it goes wrong then they can supply and fit a replacement engine at their cost.

[Paul240480]

Originally Posted by acshortt5

As a general note: if you decide to change the cambelt yourself then you WILL need to lock the cams. You can get a tool from IPD or make your own.

These are interference engines, if the cams go out of alignment you are going to bend valves and potentially wreck the engine.

Cambelts are one of the few jobs that I pay the main dealer to do simply for peace of mind that it's been done properly and if it goes wrong then they can supply and fit a replacement engine at their cost.

I get where you are coming from. I admit I did not lock mine. The positions are clearly marked. I followed Jod's fab 'how to' on here. Also when all was done, I pulled the plugs & turned the engine by hand. If anything had 'hit' at hand turn speed - problem would be apparent & no damage caused - other than 'pride' maybe. The belts (OE from Rufe) were less than £50 delivered to France, bargain cambelt change price in my book Garage quote here was over £500 euros

No, I'm no expert, this was my 3rd only belt change & 2'nd 'on my tod'. Did my 240 with an expert guiding me. Did my 480Tub after, then the 850. So far so good