V50 Engine 2.0D : - 2006 V50 2.0D Limp mode going uphill when the engine's cold

Dirty Diesel · Feb 18th, 2021, 13:02

Afternoon all. We've got a very peculiar fault with an '06 V50 2.0D and I was hoping someone here might be able to help. I must apologise for the long post.

We've had the car for nearly a year now, but over the last six months or so, it's developed a fault, and one that doesn't make sense to me. Just by our house, there's a reasonable inclined hill. Almost everytime we take the V50 up this hill when the engine is cold, the engine service light comes on, and the car goes into limp mode. Stopping, turning the engine off and back on again resolves this.

This only happens when it's cold. When the engine is at operating temperature, this problem goes away completely, and can storm up hills like a champ (leaving my old V40 behind I might add!)

The car has been serviced about 6-8 months ago if my memory serves me well, and was done by me. Oil, oil filter, fuel filter and I think the cabin filter were done. The fuel filter was definitely done (I spent over an hour trying the prime the engine afterwards...). I should add that this V50 doesn't have a DPF, used to have the EGR blanked but has since been replaced with a working used unit, as we thought that was at fault, which made the problem go away for a week or two but soon return.

Also installed is a K&N air filter added by the previous owner. I'm completely stumped as to what's going on. Could it be a MAF sensor, Coolant temp sensor, intake air temp sensor, MAP sensor.

As a side note, the car sometimes "Runs on" after turning the key to the "0" position, and some of the electrics have stopped working, like the clock and seat memory functions. Sometimes the electric windows, radio and heaters work after removing the key or turning it to the "0" position, too. Thought I'd mention that in case it was of use.

Does anyone have any ideas? This car is the fourth in a line of vehicles that have been purchased and quickly developed faults and has cost a lot to repair, in the last 18-24 months. Feel bad that my V40 has been soldering on like a champ while the V50 has been plagued with issues. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.

Simmy · Feb 18th, 2021, 19:33

its not unusual to inherit some problems when buying a used car get the codes read and check for vacuum leaks

Dirty Diesel · Feb 22nd, 2021, 15:04

Just an update here. Apologies for the length.

I've taken both TCV solenoids off the car, cleaned the filters inside (Had to makeshift one as it disintegrated when I took it out) and blew them out with some compressed air. I refitted them on the car, but swapped them over, so the TCV that controlled the turbo is now in charge of the shut-off flap, and vice versa. No difference.

I then tried bypassing the TCV for the turbo and connecting the vacuum lines together. The car seems to boost okay, but I'm going to test it again when the engine is cold to see if the engine service light shows up again.

Seems to still show a bit of hesitation apparently though. I checked the vacuum lines themselves the best I could, and I couldn't fine any splits in them. I tried sucking on the vacuum pipe for the turbo actuator and got it to move maybe 1-2mm, although my lungs aren't as effective as a vacuum pump.

Here are some voltage readings in case they prove useful.

Voltage on both TCV connectors showed the same voltage for their respective wires, just shy of 11.6-11.9V on the Green/Light Blue wire, and 3.8-3.9V on the Grey/Light Blue wire on the TCV connector next to the airbox. I couldn't see the wire colours for the TCV above the alternator, but they read the exact same. Intake Air Temp Sensor read 5V Brown, and 0V White. MAP Sensor read 5V Yellow/Green, 0V Green/Brown and 6.6V Green/White. Again, these readings were taken with the ignition at position II and the engine OFF.

Is there anywhere I should check from here? Ideally I could do with a wiring diagram that shows plug voltage for each pin, then I could test all the connectors I think could be responsible, in case of a wiring fault. Could the turbo actuator be stuck? I couldn't move it by hand due to it's awkward placement. I'll try and find a mirror and see if it moves when revved.

One other electrical gremlin that happened again today: When I put some tools in the car and went inside, I locked the car, and the dipped beam and front fog lights came on, then went off after about 30s. This is NOT "Home-safe lighting" nor is it the same as pressing the yellow light button on the Fob, as that only activates the side lights.

Apologies for the lengthy text; I wanted to lay out everything I have tried thus far.

Dirty Diesel · Feb 24th, 2021, 10:27

Update 2 (It'll be sure, I promise).

We took the car out yesterday morning with the TCV for the turbo bypassed, so it should be on full boost. Took it up a fairly steep hill, 1st, 2nd and 3rd pulled strong, but as soon as you change to 4th it loses power (it usually feels faster in 4th than 3rd). Lost power then put the engine light on, but only when it got into 4th gear.

I'm trying to think what this could indicate. The car always pulled harder in 4th gear than in 3rd for whatever reason. Almost like it was tuned to use boost by gear, and someone turned up the boost for 4th. That's what it feels like. Could it by sticky turbo vanes? The electrical part of the turbo actuator?

I'm sure it's more than a coincidence that the engine light came on and the engine dropped power when it changed to 4th gear, which always felt like it had more power. Maybe a sensor is thinking there's too much boost?

Willber G · Feb 25th, 2021, 22:04

I had a similar problem on my old X-Type 2.2d. It was cured by using a double dose (1 bottle in half a tank) of Forte Turbo Cleaner then 1 bottle in a full tank. I used Super diesel exclusively after that (with the occasional 'Italian tune-up') and the problem never returned. Probably sticky turbo vanes.

JohnnyDMonic · Nov 4th, 2021, 11:32

I have the exact same problem with my 2010 v50 D3.

There's a fairly steep hill about 3/4 mile from my house. Sometimes when I drive that way from cold, I change into 4th and I get "Engine system service required" message on the dash and the car goes into limp mode. It doesn't happen every time, but when it happens it's always in the exact same place going up the hill, and always when changing into 4th.

Did you ever get to the bottom of it?

Feb 18th, 2021, 13:02	#1
Dirty Diesel Member Last Online: Apr 23rd, 2024 19:11 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Lancashire	2006 V50 2.0D Limp mode going uphill when the engine's cold Afternoon all. We've got a very peculiar fault with an '06 V50 2.0D and I was hoping someone here might be able to help. I must apologise for the long post. We've had the car for nearly a year now, but over the last six months or so, it's developed a fault, and one that doesn't make sense to me. Just by our house, there's a reasonable inclined hill. Almost everytime we take the V50 up this hill when the engine is cold, the engine service light comes on, and the car goes into limp mode. Stopping, turning the engine off and back on again resolves this. This only happens when it's cold. When the engine is at operating temperature, this problem goes away completely, and can storm up hills like a champ (leaving my old V40 behind I might add!) The car has been serviced about 6-8 months ago if my memory serves me well, and was done by me. Oil, oil filter, fuel filter and I think the cabin filter were done. The fuel filter was definitely done (I spent over an hour trying the prime the engine afterwards...). I should add that this V50 doesn't have a DPF, used to have the EGR blanked but has since been replaced with a working used unit, as we thought that was at fault, which made the problem go away for a week or two but soon return. Also installed is a K&N air filter added by the previous owner. I'm completely stumped as to what's going on. Could it be a MAF sensor, Coolant temp sensor, intake air temp sensor, MAP sensor. As a side note, the car sometimes "Runs on" after turning the key to the "0" position, and some of the electrics have stopped working, like the clock and seat memory functions. Sometimes the electric windows, radio and heaters work after removing the key or turning it to the "0" position, too. Thought I'd mention that in case it was of use. Does anyone have any ideas? This car is the fourth in a line of vehicles that have been purchased and quickly developed faults and has cost a lot to repair, in the last 18-24 months. Feel bad that my V40 has been soldering on like a champ while the V50 has been plagued with issues. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.

Feb 25th, 2021, 22:04	#5
Willber G Upstanding Member Last Online: Aug 26th, 2022 23:00 Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Southampton	I had a similar problem on my old X-Type 2.2d. It was cured by using a double dose (1 bottle in half a tank) of Forte Turbo Cleaner then 1 bottle in a full tank. I used Super diesel exclusively after that (with the occasional 'Italian tune-up') and the problem never returned. Probably sticky turbo vanes. __________________ . __56 C70 D5 SE Geartronic

Feb 18th, 2021, 19:33	#2
Simmy Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:23 Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Manchester	its not unusual to inherit some problems when buying a used car get the codes read and check for vacuum leaks

Feb 22nd, 2021, 15:04	#3
Dirty Diesel Member Last Online: Apr 23rd, 2024 19:11 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Lancashire	Just an update here. Apologies for the length. I've taken both TCV solenoids off the car, cleaned the filters inside (Had to makeshift one as it disintegrated when I took it out) and blew them out with some compressed air. I refitted them on the car, but swapped them over, so the TCV that controlled the turbo is now in charge of the shut-off flap, and vice versa. No difference. I then tried bypassing the TCV for the turbo and connecting the vacuum lines together. The car seems to boost okay, but I'm going to test it again when the engine is cold to see if the engine service light shows up again. Seems to still show a bit of hesitation apparently though. I checked the vacuum lines themselves the best I could, and I couldn't fine any splits in them. I tried sucking on the vacuum pipe for the turbo actuator and got it to move maybe 1-2mm, although my lungs aren't as effective as a vacuum pump. Here are some voltage readings in case they prove useful. Voltage on both TCV connectors showed the same voltage for their respective wires, just shy of 11.6-11.9V on the Green/Light Blue wire, and 3.8-3.9V on the Grey/Light Blue wire on the TCV connector next to the airbox. I couldn't see the wire colours for the TCV above the alternator, but they read the exact same. Intake Air Temp Sensor read 5V Brown, and 0V White. MAP Sensor read 5V Yellow/Green, 0V Green/Brown and 6.6V Green/White. Again, these readings were taken with the ignition at position II and the engine OFF. Is there anywhere I should check from here? Ideally I could do with a wiring diagram that shows plug voltage for each pin, then I could test all the connectors I think could be responsible, in case of a wiring fault. Could the turbo actuator be stuck? I couldn't move it by hand due to it's awkward placement. I'll try and find a mirror and see if it moves when revved. One other electrical gremlin that happened again today: When I put some tools in the car and went inside, I locked the car, and the dipped beam and front fog lights came on, then went off after about 30s. This is NOT "Home-safe lighting" nor is it the same as pressing the yellow light button on the Fob, as that only activates the side lights. Apologies for the lengthy text; I wanted to lay out everything I have tried thus far.

Feb 24th, 2021, 10:27	#4
Dirty Diesel Member Last Online: Apr 23rd, 2024 19:11 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Lancashire	Update 2 (It'll be sure, I promise). We took the car out yesterday morning with the TCV for the turbo bypassed, so it should be on full boost. Took it up a fairly steep hill, 1st, 2nd and 3rd pulled strong, but as soon as you change to 4th it loses power (it usually feels faster in 4th than 3rd). Lost power then put the engine light on, but only when it got into 4th gear. I'm trying to think what this could indicate. The car always pulled harder in 4th gear than in 3rd for whatever reason. Almost like it was tuned to use boost by gear, and someone turned up the boost for 4th. That's what it feels like. Could it by sticky turbo vanes? The electrical part of the turbo actuator? I'm sure it's more than a coincidence that the engine light came on and the engine dropped power when it changed to 4th gear, which always felt like it had more power. Maybe a sensor is thinking there's too much boost?

Nov 4th, 2021, 11:32	#6
JohnnyDMonic New Member Last Online: Jan 23rd, 2023 14:37 Join Date: May 2020 Location: Falmouth	I have the exact same problem with my 2010 v50 D3. There's a fairly steep hill about 3/4 mile from my house. Sometimes when I drive that way from cold, I change into 4th and I get "Engine system service required" message on the dash and the car goes into limp mode. It doesn't happen every time, but when it happens it's always in the exact same place going up the hill, and always when changing into 4th. Did you ever get to the bottom of it?

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