Electrical problem 940

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I wish you'd put these results up when i first asked you to try it without the TPS connected!

It would have saved a lot of head-scratching and an incorrect conclusion (re the ECU) which could have cost you a lot of money to find out was incorrect!

It would also have saved you having to take the dizzy cap off to check the carbon brush!

If you remember, very early in the thread, Ash got upset with you and so did i because we had each asked you to perform checks that you didn't do and didn't report on correctly. I at least thought you had learned to perform the checks, exactly as they were asked and then give the results.

You're lucky that you've put the correct results up and not spent money on a new ECU that wouldn't have been necessary!

Right, back to the TPS, it's obviously way out of adjustment. Can you put up a photo of it so we can check that no numpty has fitted it upside down?

Then i'll explain how to adjust it correctly. DO NOTHING ELSE - JUST TAKE THE PHOTO!!!!!

I understand that i failed to communicate throughout this thread, I’m sorry.

[Ammorack]

Another picture

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

Another picture

The TPS isn't even visible in this one! That's a nice picture of the throttle drum though!

Originally Posted by Ammorack

I understand that i failed to communicate throughout this thread, I’m sorry.

It's only just visible in this one! However it appears to be fitted correctly. It's held on by two screws, usually they're 3 or 4mm Allen key screws.

Work out which way the throttle spindle (NOT the throttle drum) turns as you open the throttle. Loosen the screws on the TPS and turn it the opposite direction. With the throttle closed, turn the TPS back SLOWLY until you hear a click. TIghten the adjustment screws in this positon.
Once tight, open the throttle slightly and you should hear a click and another as you release the throttle.

The TPS is now adjusted.

HOWEVER!!!!! There should be a separate screw (sometimes made of plastic with a knurled edge or a slot for an 8mm Allen key) on the throttle body (probably underneath as i can't see it) that will need screwing in until the hot idle is about 700rpm. It may need further adjustment, i'm only getting you somewhere near now so we can test the rest.

With luck, doing this will get the engine running as it should, if not,we'll have to make up some jumper wires (not the sort you use to jump start a car, just small ones) so we can isolate which part of the TPS is faulty.

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The TPS isn't even visible in this one! That's a nice picture of the throttle drum though!







It's only just visible in this one! However it appears to be fitted correctly. It's held on by two screws, usually they're 3 or 4mm Allen key screws.

Work out which way the throttle spindle (NOT the throttle drum) turns as you open the throttle. Loosen the screws on the TPS and turn it the opposite direction. With the throttle closed, turn the TPS back SLOWLY until you hear a click. TIghten the adjustment screws in this positon.
Once tight, open the throttle slightly and you should hear a click and another as you release the throttle.

The TPS is now adjusted.

HOWEVER!!!!! There should be a separate screw (sometimes made of plastic with a knurled edge or a slot for an 8mm Allen key) on the throttle body (probably underneath as i can't see it) that will need screwing in until the hot idle is about 700rpm. It may need further adjustment, i'm only getting you somewhere near now so we can test the rest.

With luck, doing this will get the engine running as it should, if not,we'll have to make up some jumper wires (not the sort you use to jump start a car, just small ones) so we can isolate which part of the TPS is faulty.

I have adjusted it now, it’s still idling bad, click is heard when throttle is slightly open. But the 0,15mm feeler gauge between adjustment screw and throttle. Is there no click heard now.

And the little screw underneath the throttle is very rusty and won’t turn.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

I have adjusted it now, it’s still idling bad, click is heard when throttle is slightly open. But the 0,15mm feeler gauge between adjustment screw and throttle. Is there no click heard now.

And the little screw underneath the throttle is very rusty and won’t turn.

DOn't worry about that, it sounds as if you have adjusted the TPS.

Now unplug and look under the throttle body for a plastic screw, you can just see the one on mine :



It's underneath the throttle body, you can see the knurled/milled edge and if you look really closely, you can just about see the hole for the Allen key.

That said, before you do, make three short lengths of wire to fit in the socket of the plug that goes on the TPS and link them pin-for-pin to the TPS. Start it up and disconnect the red/white one, the idle should improve.

Report back with whatever happens!

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

DOn't worry about that, it sounds as if you have adjusted the TPS.

Now unplug and look under the throttle body for a plastic screw, you can just see the one on mine :



It's underneath the throttle body, you can see the knurled/milled edge and if you look really closely, you can just about see the hole for the Allen key.

I do not have such thing on my throttle

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

I do not have such thing on my throttle

In that case, you need to clean out your AICV and refit the throttle body properly. THen do the tests with the wires that i just advised - NOTHING ELSE!!!!!! I repeat - NOTHING ELSE!!!!!

Then report back.

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

In that case, you need to clean out your AICV and refit the throttle body properly. THen do the tests with the wires that i just advised - NOTHING ELSE!!!!!! I repeat - NOTHING ELSE!!!!!

Then report back.

Okay, I made three leads on tps to tps socket. Started the car and let it idle, still bad idling. Disconnected red/white wire and still nothing. Still bad idle

Cleaned IAC still bad idle

Driving without tps plugged in. Smooth my idle out and goes to 2000rpm 20%-+

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

Okay, I made three leads on tps to tps socket. Started the car and let it idle, still bad idling. Disconnected red/white wire and still nothing. Still bad idle

Cleaned IAC still bad idle

Driving without tps plugged in. Smooth my idle out and goes to 2000rpm 20%-+

With the red/white disconnected, will it rev above 3000rpm?

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

With the red/white disconnected, will it rev above 3000rpm?

Yes it does. But it’s constant 2000rpm idling