S60 D5 Auto Box fluid change TF-80SC

[TristarL1011]

Hi Guys,
Does anyone know if there is a way to replace the automatic gearbox fluid in my car without Vida and do it myself at home? Its the 6 speed TF-80SC box.
I have heard that you need to plug it in the check the tempreture of fluid when you set the level.
If I drain the gearbox cold and measure the exact amount that came out and put that amount in, would that work?
Dealer wants nearly £300 to change. Cheers

[XC90Mk1]

I have just completed this on my 2012 xc90 d5. I would have no worries about doing it without Vida although I do have it. First rule is to only listen to people who have actually carried out this operation as there seems to be a lot of ‘lore’ Out there.

1). Select correct fluid. Jws3309 will be stated by all however it changed in 2010 to aw1 and then changed after.

2). Ensure you have a t55 torx for fill line, t40 for integrated level plug and 17mm internal hex for drain.

3). Get a large pan type drain (6l from Halfords is great). You can’t afford to loose stuff. Also get a measure beaker set from Amazon (I paid about 10 quid for a large range).

4). Get 2 sets of drain gasket (aluminium), and o ring for fill and integrated level.

As long as the temperature that the fluid comes out is the same as the temp of the fluid goes in you will be fine (assuming it was correct before). I drained black poor condition fluid out and the 1st drop a week later was just as bad. I did an experiment and filled up with 2.6 of fresh fluid and circulated through the box in p, n, d and r and drained a small amount out. It looked much improved. I then drover for a Week and it came out poor. Accordingly it’s clear that it takes time to pick up contaminants in the atf fluid so do t fill, dump, fill dump the same day.

I dropped 2.6 and refilled. Fitted new gaskets and drove for a week. Retained the same gaskets and dumped a further 2.6l a week later and repeated about 4 tines. On the final dump i used the 2nd set of gaskets and o-rings.

It’s very easy.

One point I would not is that if you have a huge **** up and it goes wrong the oil temp in my xc90 took 30 mins to get to 50 degrees and didn’t really get any hotter. I don’t believe it would should you not drive it. If you have an issue I would be happy to idle for 40 minute then use the drain plug as intended.

Just to add the final drop (1500 miles later) was a lovely cherry red and the box is much better now.

[TristarL1011]

Thanks for the advice. I might give it go and drain the fluid out cold and put the exact amount back in cold.

Like you said worse case let the car idle for 40 mins and then check the level.
Can I just confirm that it took 40 mins to reach 50 degrees from a cold engine with the gear selector in park? Thanks

[XC90Mk1]

Originally Posted by TristarL1011

Thanks for the advice. I might give it go and drain the fluid out cold and put the exact amount back in cold.

Like you said worse case let the car idle for 40 mins and then check the level.
Can I just confirm that it took 40 mins to reach 50 degrees from a cold engine with the gear selector in park? Thanks

Hi,

The car was at 13oC ambient and upon starting climbed reasonably quickly to approximately 40oC. At this point it rose to around 46 quickish (10 mins and 10mins approx). At 46oC it didn’t really raise quick at all, took 10-12 mins to go up to 50. I left it about 10 minutes and it rose perhaps 1 degree. It appeared to me that the transmission should get to 50 quickly and then not raise.

I cycled it through p, n, d and r for 10 seconds a number of times. The effect was either nothing or it went up 1oC then dropped back. I think if you left it 35 minutes you would find it between 48 and 55c.

Frankly though I would just drain and refill carefully.

[pierremcalpine]

I've got a bit of a different take re: measuring and temp.
You can get it roughly to the right temp simply by driving for about 15min. This is based on having done the procedure 1x with my 2010 V70, 1x with my 2004 S60 and 2x with my 2003 V40. Each time I used VIDA to check temp and each time I ended up driving for the same distance before checking temp and each time it got to about 80deg at the same point in the drive.

With the above in mind, I would overfill slightly and wait to get it to right temp before making the final adjustment. i.e. drive for 15min. Then you find a flat/level location, slide a pan under the engine and pop off the level plug and drain until it stops. This gets you the EXACT right level.

The other ways will get the job done too...I just like the piece of mind that the level plug design is used for its intended purpose.