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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Heat sheild MK1Views : 985 Replies : 15Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 11th, 2019, 14:03 | #11 |
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Location: New Milford, Connecticut
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I think you should consider hanging the heat shield from the intake manifold bolts - where the carburetors attach, either in front of or behind the spacer. Of course, this will require cutting/drilling 8 bolt holes and two air flow holes.
This will create an less restrictive air space between the shield and the exhaust manifold. As you have it hanging off of the intake manifold cross piece, I suspect you are right up against the exhaust manifold - and the metal sheet will surely conduct all that heat towards the carbs. |
Apr 11th, 2019, 17:40 | #12 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:31
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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I had thought that that might be the case but on further close inspection the shield is never in contact with the manifold anywhere. Also note new overflow/vent' pipes from fuel bowl. Time will tell whether or not the shield is help or hindrance
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Apr 11th, 2019, 21:46 | #13 |
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Arcturus, you do nice work, but ...
I have one little nit to pick - not because I like to nit-pick, but just because I want you to avoid all future disappointment. If your overflow tubes on the carbs are the yellow copper type tubes (I'm not sure they are actually copper), they will eventually suffer fatigue fracture if they are not supported. You can be driving along and they fall off and you don't even know. Then you are right back where you started. Ask me how I know. If the overflow tubes are steel, then I don't know and you can ignore my comment. Here is a link to a page by Barney Gaylord discussing how they are supposed to be routed on an MG engine. Perhaps you will have an idea from this. https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb109.htm Note that towards the bottom of the page he writes: My fix for that (fatigue fracture) is to cut the pipes short about at the bottom of the float chambers and continue from there with 3/16 inch bore rubber hoses to drop between the frame and inner fender. It isn't concours, but it sure is slick and easy and effective. I've sort of done the same thing with clear tubing, except I route all the way to the opposite side of the engine compartment. On the Volvo, this would mean routing over to the driver's side of the car. Cheers and keep up the good work. Last edited by blueosprey90; Apr 11th, 2019 at 21:52. |
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Apr 12th, 2019, 09:07 | #14 |
arcturus
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I have already shortened the front one and attached some rubber tubing. It's just that I have run out of tubing for the rear.
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Apr 12th, 2019, 11:10 | #15 |
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Apr 13th, 2019, 10:49 | #16 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:31
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Well so far the shield seems to be doing its job. Only been running in garage but the carbs not getting too warm and also the shield cools down much more quickly than the other parts.Still waiting for the customs here to release the Koozies. They should make a big difference.
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