Heat sheild MK1

[arcturus]

First attempt, will see how that goes and then improve

[arcturus]

Shield MK2. If it works OK I will fabricate in one piece.

[classicswede]

What about adapting one of these?

https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/heat...yABEgKldfD_BwE

[arcturus]

Tried that but didn't work well.

[davidw6092]

When I made one for a rally pv that I used to look after,I lined the underside of it with heat proof material bought from agriemech.This improved the insulation of it no end.Yours is looking promising.

[Derek UK]

This is a difficult call as the more you cover the hot end of the exhaust the more the hot air can duct upwards and heat up the inlet manifold. This might also happen due to the way you have wrapped the central section around the balance tube. Don't think I would do that. This mostly a deflector for petrol drips so allowing the exhaust heat to rise out of the way is good. Unfortunately, on the B16 has the float chambers on the outside of the carb bodies, unlike the B18/20 ones being in the middle. The B16 exhaust manifold also routes to the back and joins the pipe right under the rear carb float bowl. The Volvo 18/20 deflector only covers the central position but it works for float chamber overflows that can happen above the hottest part of the exhaust manifold.
+1 for David's suggestion about the Agriemech insulation.

[arcturus]

Thank's for input. Have new float bowl covers on the way with overflow pipes coming from top. I thought about the heat being trapped so I will probably drill a few holes in plate at top to allow heat escape. I will also look int the insulation as suggested. BTW have "koozies" on the way

[arcturus]

I think that I have addressed the issue re' the balance pipe. As you can see from photo te shield has been splayed outward and more so at the front so that some airflow from fan is channeled between manifold and shield. Had a look at the insulating material as suggested but need advice as to which product to use, there are so many. Help please.

[Derek UK]

I think that the heat barrier material will be more trouble than it's worth. OK, you may get higher ambient temps there but it really comes into its own during racing and rallying when the manifold can get really hot. Fixing will probably mean rivets or nuts and bolts with large washers. Also getting a small piece for your job may turn out expensive if you have to buy a minimum size piece that has lots left over.
I still think you don't need any of the shielding over the inlet manifold balance tube. OK for frosty mornings but you don't have many of those. You have your Koozies coming and they should help. I think the bottom line here is that you want to stop ANY drips of petrol getting onto the hot manifold and after your fire, I can understand that.
It's interesting that late B18 twin carb engines originally had a rubber shield in front of the front carb to prevent icing from the fan in cold conditions. Just the opposite of what we are covering here. These rubber shields get lost and are rarely replaced.

[Army]

How about this stuff

https://www.frost.co.uk/cool-tube-he...rake-line.html