no dipstick, broken other one

[Lancee]

Originally Posted by capt jack

Ta. I do indeed own a pair of ramps - had them for over 40 years. Big, heavy duty welded steel frames that would support rather more than even a V70!

However, there's not enough clearance under the nose of the V70 to get the ramps in. It probably would be ok driving up the ramps as the nose would probably lift just enough to give clearance. However, I can easily foresee that reversing back down off the ramps and the front valance / bumper would definitely foul on the ramps .

I guess I need some lower profile ramps, but for the odd time I'd expect to use them it doesn't seem worth it.

Jack

Butt the ends of a couple of lengths of timber up to the front tyres, I find 30mm "height" is enough for mine, width and length is up to what you might have to hand (wider and longer is better, = more surface area for grip). Then butt the lower edge of the ramp/s up to the timber.

Carefully drive onto the timber, this should lift the front valance (nose) enough to clear the ramp/s, then onwards and upwards on to the ramp/s. A lift of 30mm is enough for my two D5 V70s, my D5 C70 is a different story, too low, so no go!

Easy on the throttle and again gently when reversing off to avoid fouling the front valance.

Rubber car mats between the floor and the "join" between the wood and ramp/s can help depending on the floor surface. On gravel may be dicey ?

I have a painted concrete floor in my garage and the above works for me, I have a couple of old rubber doormats which I use to reduce the chance of slipping.

Food for thought ?

(No liability accepted for the above !!!!!)

[spottedhaggis]

Thanks everyone for the info.
I have almost everything, just waiting for the oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter.

Having had to replace both piece of the charge pipe a couple of times now, I am very comfy with removal of the underside.

Anything I need to know about changing the fuel filter? on the Audi it was a metal can, pull of the pipes from the old, empty the contents into a jug and fill the new filter then connec tthe pipes again

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by spottedhaggis

Thanks everyone for the info.
I have almost everything, just waiting for the oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter.

Having had to replace both piece of the charge pipe a couple of times now, I am very comfy with removal of the underside.

Anything I need to know about changing the fuel filter? on the Audi it was a metal can, pull of the pipes from the old, empty the contents into a jug and fill the new filter then connec tthe pipes again

Its different to Audi - There's no pipes to pull off. Its a paper filter inside a plastic housing underneath the car (towards the rear). You'll need to jack the rear of the car up or have it on ramps to get good access.

You need a 32mm ring spanner to undo the filter housing. If you haven't got one, you'll need a 32mm socket, rachet and an extension of some sort. Space is pretty tight because of the rear anti-rollbar. I think the ring spanner works best. There's two nuts on the filter housing... one is a drain (18mm) and the other is the 32mm one to undo the whole housing. You can drain it first if you want by undoing the 18mm nut, but make sure you have something to catch the fuel. You can reuse the o-rings on the drain plug. Personally, I don't touch the drain plug... I just undo the whole housing and have a big tray to catch the fuel.

Once the new filter is in place and the housing is secure, you need to prime it. Do this by getting in the car and holding the start button without your foot on the brake pedal. Repeat that a few times (3 or 4 should be fine), you'll hear the filter filling with fuel.

Then start the car as you normally would and check for leaks. Don't forget to replace the rubber sealing ring on the inside of the plastic housing. Your new filter should come with a new rubber.

Don't go crazy tightening the plastic housing, it can crack easily. Just screw it on by hand as much as you can, then just give it a gentle tug extra with your 32mm spanner or socket and leave it at that. There's no need for excessive force.

[simboc2004]

Have done all my oil changes since I owned my car - it's really easy. #Capt Jack's description is spot on. The only proviso I would add is that volume of oil is critical - too much and you will have quite a bit of trouble. I, too, fitted a proper dipstick a while ago. I always measure the amount of oil I remove and put the same volume back in - then top up to half way on the dipstick (if necessary). The electronic dipstick resets itself after about 50 miles to the centre position - however full the sump is - so don't be fooled by it - or use it to set the level. It just ain't accurate enough! I'm about to do another oil change (I do two a year) and I'll photograph and post the process if useful.

[simboc2004]

Here's a description of yesterday's oil change...

Jack up the car (no need to remove the front wheels), remove the under tray - 8 x torx screws (T50 I think) - then undo the oil drain plug on the back of the sump. The oil tends to squirt out towards the back of the car, so be careful to catch the initial spurt. I catch the oil in a medium size stacka-box.

Next, whilst letting the oil drain out, remove the oil filter (36mm ultra shallow 3/8" socket). Then remove the used filter from the housing (a sharp tug) and pull out the seal inside using needle-nose pliers (there's a raised tag at one point). Clean it and insert the new filter element (it will click in place). Also change the washer on the drain plug at this time (If you order oil kit with filter from a Volvo dealer (Ebay) it will come with a new washer). It's a "crush" washer, so must be changed when removed.

At this point I replace the drain plug and the filter housing (note the torque setting is printed on it), then put in the first 4 litres of new 0W30 oil (I mark off the full level on all the new oil containers with a marker pen before starting). I find it is best to replace the same volume as you remove, rather than trying to fill then adjust later; Volvo handily send the oil in 1 x 4 litre container, plus 2 x 1 litre containers, which makes the filling process easier. As I empty one container I refill it - up to the marker line - with used oil. This way I can judge roughly how much oil I need to add. The first 1 litre bottle of oil goes in next and then that's filled up with old oil. At this point I empty what used oil is left into a 2 litre measuring jug. When I know how much more to add, then in goes the needed amount. This time I needed just over 1 litre to top off, so in went the second new 1 litre bottle, plus a bit extra from a back up bottle of oil I bought last year.

Check there are no leaks from the drain plug, re-attach the under tray and lower the car. Check it's on reasonably level ground, then check the oil level by using the workshop dipstick the car comes with, or, ideally, the police-spec "normal" dipstick you have replaced the annoying service dipstick with. I stop topping up when the oil is half way up the hatched area. Switch the ignition on without starting the car and check the electronic level - it will say full to the max. After a 50 mile run it will set that as the new "normal" and almost certainly now indicate it is half full on the electronic gauge. Do not add any more - that is the correct amount.

[spottedhaggis]

Hey all thanks again, so after everything arrived I started. I got a 16l oil pan more than I needed but better safe, removed plug, didn't spill a drop. I used axle stands. Let it drip for about 10 mins. Now I knew there was too much oil in the car, and i drained nearly 7 litres of oil. Removed oil filter, easy, replaced, put new plug and crush washer, couldn't torque it as I got the wrong one, put exactly 5.9l back in, started it up and watched for drips or leaks, none.
Drive it for a week, including a 522 mile round trip in one day, no look leaks evident.

I ordered 2 silicon air charger pipes which arrived today, and this time I used ramps to put the front up, still no leaks so very pleased. Replaced both pieces of charger pipe with new silicone ones, cat is doing well.

Need new undertray at some pijht.

Also repaired the headlight washer which now works, got two replacement washer things (you know the y pop up and spray) from AliExpress for about £16 the pair, b and new white caps for another 8 lol, some stuff on as AliExpress is perfect and very cheap, some stuff is very cheap and crap.

Now just undertray to replace and at some stage a new front bumper to get resprayed as mine is rubbish

Im so chuffed I can service my car myself