ignition timing etc

Appreciate some help as I'm a new Amazon owner (1969 120 estate version with an 1800 engine - not sure whether it's an A or B series though, as it may not be the original). Can anyone please tell me (a) what the ignition timing settings are for both versions and is it with the vacuum pipe disconnected? (b) how you weaken the mixture on the Stromberg CD 175 single carb - been told there is a nut under the float chamber and screwing anticlock weakens but in reality this seems to be the float chamber plug and unscrewing it results in dumping the petrol in the carb all over the inlet/exh manifolds! Isn't there a mixture screw or do you have to lower piston assembly inside carb itself? Finally, does anyone know where I can get a rear engine seal as I'm getting judder in 1st and 2nd gear and think that might be the cause. Thanks a lot
Rob K

[cbyard]

Can't help with ignition but having had various strombergs I know of at least 3 versions of jet adjustment...

Nut as you describe (may be more of a kind of dished flats nut for finger grip).

Nut in same place but recessed into collar on bottom of float chamber needing a special sort of peg spanner to turn it.

Screw accessible with yet another special tool down through the top of the dashpot (take the plastic cap off to insert; this one's a b.... to adjust without stalling the engine) It also moves the needle rather than the jet.

The special tools should be relatively inexpensive (I didn't swallow too hard about ten years ago when I bought some) and hopefully still available from a decent parts/accessory shop.

Good Luck

Chris

Thanks a lot Chris, looks like that takes care of my weekend!

Hi,

Baz here. I have a B18B (as I have twin carbs) and the settings I have been using are fom the handbook (as the haynes manual is a rather complicated!)

Inlet and exhaust vales at .50 (warm)
Ignition timing (17 - 19 BTDC) with strobe at 1500.

Mine's running sweet as a nut at these settings.

If the engine has not been rebuilt, I'd guess the cam would be an A as you have one carb so a B18a nomenclature.

If you have judder, it is prob oil on flywheel, so a new seal would be best. Why not test bores with a drop of oil and see if the pressure increases when you turn the engine over on the starter, this will help track down what may be causing the oil leak.- further info if you want it!

If you are going to have to take engine or gearbox out (if not both)to put in the new seal- it may be worth a few other tweaks to stop this happening again; new rings - as worn ones cause sump oil pressure which equals leak - sorry if you knew this already!)

Best place to get a seal I have found is Brookhouse Volvo (Simon or Darren), they'll do the new rear seal casting as well, that's if you can't get anyone to machine the old casting out for you (as the new seals are different sizes)

Best of luck with this (if you want just the rear seal on its own I have a spare one (I think) and some of the gaskets you will need). Feel free to drop me a line as I have loads of spares.

Baz

ebarrimore@hotmail.com