Replacing heater matrix

[Cookeh]

Behr and Hella are the same company regarding air conditioning conditioning components...

[pyro]

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=275582&page=2

There are a few bits in there that may help. Particularly a fix if the bulkhead pipe bracket was as brittle as mine!

Still going strong 2 years on.

cheers-

Ben

[Alpine]

Originally Posted by Cookeh

eBay for the Behr matrix, or [ur

Its not essential to drain your coolant but it is advisable. It's not a hard thing to do either, just undo the drain bolt with a suitable drain pan beneath it and the expansion tank off. Don't necessarily even need to jack the car up.

when you say undo the drain bolt, do you mean under the radiator or the engine block?

As I understand it, if I don't drain the system the danger is that trapped air could blow the new matrix off, but isn't that always a risk as when I re-fill with new coolant I would still have pockets of air?

[Luxobarge]

Originally Posted by Alpine

....... trapped air could blow the new matrix off,

No, that's nonsense, as you say there will always be some air in it after a drain-down. These systems bleed fairly easily after a drain-down.

To drain the system I'd recommend leaving the drain bolt well alone (on the bottom of the rad) as it can snap off and possibly trash the radiator. Best way IMHO is to loosen the bottom hose clip and drain it from there. This clip is often rusty and it's not unheard of for it to rust all the way through and let go, so a good opportunity to inspect it and either oil the threads or replace it if it's at all suspect.

[Alpine]

Originally Posted by Luxobarge

No, that's nonsense, as you say there will always be some air in it after a drain-down. These systems bleed fairly easily after a drain-down.

To drain the system I'd recommend leaving the drain bolt well alone (on the bottom of the rad) as it can snap off and possibly trash the radiator. Best way IMHO is to loosen the bottom hose clip and drain it from there. This clip is often rusty and it's not unheard of for it to rust all the way through and let go, so a good opportunity to inspect it and either oil the threads or replace it if it's at all suspect.

cheers Luxobarge. Good idea re the hose, makes sense

[ITSv40]

Originally Posted by Alpine

cheers Luxobarge. Good idea re the hose, makes sense

Replace it with a good quality stainless steel clip.

[Cookeh]

Originally Posted by Alpine

when you say undo the drain bolt, do you mean under the radiator or the engine block?

Radiator is what I use, both is only really necessary if one is doing a full coolant flush.

Luxobarge's suggestion is much quicker however, and a includes a good preventative maintenance step.

[malc-c]

I did mine several years ago. If I remember correctly I used clamps on the hoses to the matrix (engine bay side) as suggested in one of the on line videos, and then removed the matrix - bad idea as all the coolant in the matrix needed draining and most ended up in the foot well. I also ended up having to drain and re-fill the full coolant system after as I had an airlock that I couldn't clear. - Given the cost of anti-freeze I would suggest doing a full drain down and refill as part of the job - it will be a lot easier and less chance of flooding the foot well. - Took me about 3 hours with basic tools and plenty of tea brakes