|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
1800S rev counter-not runningViews : 820 Replies : 7Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
May 30th, 2018, 10:37 | #1 |
Master Member
Last Online: Mar 14th, 2024 17:23
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Milton Keynes
|
1800S rev counter-not running
On a 1800S the rev counter has never worked.
What is the likely issue, and is it also likely it would need an overhaul? |
May 30th, 2018, 13:53 | #2 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:31
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
I assume that you have checked all the connections?
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
Jun 1st, 2018, 19:45 | #3 |
New Member
Last Online: Nov 18th, 2022 20:24
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Cologne
|
could be the cable connecting the gauge to the little bevel gear coming off from the gearbox, could be the pin connecting the cable to the bevel gear, could be the pin connecting the bevel gear to the gearbox, could be a shot bevel gear (uncommon).
all parts are still available, start with exchanging the cable (which should be done after 50 years anyways), also the bevel gear is only connected to the gearbox by a union nut, all can be disassembled and checked quite easily. |
Jun 1st, 2018, 21:42 | #4 | |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 14:24
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
|
Quote:
|
|
Jun 4th, 2018, 16:18 | #5 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Jul 5th, 2023 12:05
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Monmouth
|
1800S rev counter not working
Hi I also have the long standing problem of a non working Tacho in my 1963 P1800S.
A great place to start is to read Ron's excellent pages on the various types of Tacho's used in the P1800's, http://www.sw-em.com/Smith's%20Tachometer.htm My own one is a Generation 1 with a remote sender which I think is the reason it doesn't work. I recently purchased a modern replacement sender unit from Spiyda which I hope will resolve the problem, but I've not got around to fitting it yet. https://www.spiyda.com/tachometer-electronics.html There is I believe a Canadian firm which will repair the Generation 2 instruments with the electronics in the gauge rather than a remote sender. http://www.volvosolutions.com/1800inst_tach2.html Your first step is to determine which generation of gauge you have and Ron's web pages will help you do that. Please be aware that I think there is an oddity in the transition from P1800 to P1800s before the the introduction of the Generation 2 unit, see my post on this https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=274712 hope this helps Dave |
Jun 4th, 2018, 23:44 | #6 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Sep 11th, 2022 21:59
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ooop North
|
If your rev counter is a second generation unit (without the external sender) and you have the armoured cable coil you should have a wire that runs from the single post on the coil to the rev counter and then on to the distributor. The wire is continuous on this run and is looped around a contact on the back of the rev counter and held in place with a small plate and nut. This loop provides the pulse sent between the coil and dizzy which is picked up by the rev counter.
My car is a 1969 model 1800S with the B20B engine and the second generation rev counter. I have no idea how the first generation rev counters are wired up. Next time I am at the garage I will take some photos of the wiring is this would help. Happy motoring! Alan |
Jun 5th, 2018, 01:20 | #7 |
Master Member
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 18:48
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Alberta
|
FYI
Volvosolutions has been out of business for years. |
Jun 17th, 2018, 20:41 | #8 |
New Member
Last Online: Jul 19th, 2018 22:06
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Huntingdon
|
These electronic rev counters are basic, but pretty old, electronic technology driving a standard 'meter' movement. I have just repaired mine. It was rather optimistic showing readings more than double what the speedo would suggest it should!
The biggest problem faced - by miles- is getting the jiblets out of the chrome housing and then back in again - I can't emphasise enough how much care and patience is needed, it must not be rushed else you will have a cracked or mangled chrome housing. They were not designed to be repaired. Unrolling and then re-rolling the rolled over chrome case needs a lot of movement in the metal and fatige failure stalks the hasty. Before considering a repair I would check it is getting 12v on the supply tag (voltmeter on the rev counter's tag not the much easier to do disconnected wire...), check the case really is connected to ground (resistance meter connectd to rev counter case and to a really good metal chassis point) and that the ignition wire is wound one turn around the little connecting loop (shown in the photo in the link provided earlier by another member.) Finally check the ignition wire is actually carrying the ignition coil primary current pulse and has not been bypassed (You know: a desperate engineer trying to solve an igniton problem made sure.....). If all that is good your rev counter needs fixing. Oh, and buying a used one you'd be lucky to get one that hasn't got the 'over optimistic' problem, which will need a dismantle to fix anyway. Good luck! |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|