Dash cam with parking mode.

[Stevied1960]

Hi All.
I have just fitted a dash cam with a parking guard function.
It's the mini 0906 dual camera dash cam.https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F232429484923
I have followed the instructions for wiring RED to permanent live, BLACK to ground and YELLOW to acc, a switched fuse.

The camera has a capacitor instead of a battery which only lasts around 1 minute after the power is switched off, basically enough power to save the files that it recorded.

I'm sure you guys a well knowledgeable about how these type of things work regarding the parking mode.

The issue with mine is it won't go into parking mode, I have checked the supply and they are correct in the functions that there supposed to do,
The cut off voltage for the camera is set to 12 volts, which is the lowest it will let the camera record to so, as not to flatten the battery.

Does it make a difference which fuse its wired into?
My acc switch is piggybacked from the driver's heated seat switch, ground to the chassis and yellow to the washer pump, which is a permanent live.

It records when the engine is switched off for around 2 mins, then shuts down.
Could this mean the battery is on its way out as it's dropping with the camera running, or is it wired to wrong fuses?
It's not the unit as this is the second one as the first did exactly the same thing.
Any help appreciated.

It works perfectly well when driving.
Just to let you know there are multiple choices for the parking guard, always time lapse, where it records a lot less frames a second, auto time lapse where it switches to normal recording after it senses movement until movement stops and movement detection where it records at full frame rate for 15 seconds.
Hope this helps, I have tried all functions and it's the same on them all.
The icon on the screen stays greyed out as opposed to lit up.

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by Stevied1960

Hi All.
I have just fitted a dash cam with a parking guard function.
It's the mini 0906 dual camera dash cam.https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F232429484923
I have followed the instructions for wiring RED to permanent live, BLACK to ground and YELLOW to acc, a switched fuse.


Does it make a difference which fuse its wired into?
My acc switch is piggybacked from the driver's heated seat switch, ground to the chassis and yellow to the washer pump, which is a permanent live.

It records when the engine is switched off for around 2 mins, then shuts down.
wired to wrong fuses?

From what you have written it would appear you've got the red and yellow wires connected to ignition guarded circuits.

Which year & model Volvo is it?

Are you sure the washer pump fuse is a permanent live?

They usually only work when the ignition key is turned past Position I. to Position II i.e. they are on an ignition guarded circuit - similarly "driver's heated seat switch" is on an ignition guarded circuit.

Look at the fuse box cover at your chosen fuse box terminal and work out which of the things listed works without the ignition key turned on .

The 2 minute shut down of the camera indicates it isn't connected to a permanent live.

[Stevied1960]

Hi.
It's a 2007 XC90.
The heated seat fuse definitely turns on at position II and off when at position I. Then I removed the keys from the ignition and then tested the fuses to find one permanently live, which is the one I piggybacked from.
I don't know weather to wire direct to the battery for the permanent live, I could always try this method.
Failing that, I may go down the route of a battery to supply the permanent feed so as not to drain the car battery.

[Stevied1960]

I've just checked the state of my battery.
It's reading 12.06 volts, the cam is set to switch off at 12 volts to stop flattening the battery.
I think this may be the issue.
What should a decent battery read voltage wise please?
I may be wrong but on my previous car the battery was 12.7 volts not 12.06 like the current one ( no pun intended) lol.

[volvo always]

Originally Posted by Stevied1960

I've just checked the state of my battery.
It's reading 12.06 volts, the cam is set to switch off at 12 volts to stop flattening the battery.
I think this may be the issue.
What should a decent battery read voltage wise please?
I may be wrong but on my previous car the battery was 12.7 volts not 12.06 like the current one ( no pun intended) lol.

12.7 volts is fully charged 12.06v around 45% charged. Test your alternator output with car running for around 14 volts with a multimeter and if output good suspect battery not holding a good charge/ needs changing. It may well solve the camera cut out limit!

You also have to take into consideration voltage drop. From battery to camera as distance and poor fittings and cable size all play their part in voltage drop. I bet if you measured the voltage at the power source, less than 12 volts.


https://modernsurvivalblog.com/wp-co...-of-charge.jpg

James

[Marty Dolomite]

I doubt the washer pump is a perm live.

[Stevied1960]

I suspect it could be the battery, when tested running was reading 14.4 volts on multimeter.
The fuse I piggybacked from is fuse number 34 under the steering wheel fuse box.
Says it's washer pump on the user manual I downloaded.
I'm going to try it via a battery pack tomorrow, but think a new battery may be in order as I have had my doubts, although it's never failed to start the car.
It has been warm since I've had it as I only got it just over two weeks ago.
I have been carrying a battery booster pack as I felt the battery was not up to full power.
Thanks for the information.
Regards Steven.

[ASt85]

In the camera menu re-check power off timer and also movement sensitivity setting.

Many cameras have variable sensitivity i.e. stability sensing low minimal "g" change i.e someone pushing or wobbling the car as they get in/break a window/whacked with a car door etc. as well as having sudden impact/accident settings which record what's happening when the ignition is already off or can be set to continue to record for some minutes after an impact when the ignition may have been turned off shortly after an impact.

[1monkey600]

Originally Posted by Stevied1960

Hi.
It's a 2007 XC90.
The heated seat fuse definitely turns on at position II and off when at position I. Then I removed the keys from the ignition and then tested the fuses to find one permanently live, which is the one I piggybacked from.
I don't know weather to wire direct to the battery for the permanent live, I could always try this method.
Failing that, I may go down the route of a battery to supply the permanent feed so as not to drain the car battery.

I don't know about the early cars but on the later cars a lot of the systems remain 'live' for after turning off the ignition and only switch off completely after several minutes have passed.

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by 1monkey600

I don't know about the early cars but on the later cars a lot of the systems remain 'live' for after turning off the ignition and only switch off completely after several minutes have passed.

It is the same on the earlier models too - a very good example is the fuel flap servo which locks ten minutes after ignition off or locking the driver's door, also the anywhere between 2 minute and 10 minute delay on the deadlock operation.