2014 S60 D5 Lux Nav R-Line G/T

[Waqar92]

Hi,

I’ve purchased a 2014 S60 D5 Lux Nav R-Line G/T. Seems to have quite a bit of kit on it, many extras which I’m learning what they do.

I’m having it delivered over the coming days.

I’ve had a VW Golf for 9 years. Been a great car but wanted something little more powerful and better than what I had. Car is getting on a bit. Don’t want to sell it until I am fully comfortable that this car is as sound as it should be for this age.

I know nothing about Volvo’s prior to the last month or so. Did my research and decided this model was the better engine from all.

What common issues do these cars face? Anything I should be looking out for, that could later cause problems?

Car has about 90k on the clock, with good service history (9 stamps).

Any advice would be massively appreciated.

Thank you.

Waqar

[Richard M Knight]

Just remember you will have to pay ULEZ fees.

[Waqar92]

Originally Posted by Richard M Knight

Just remember you will have to pay ULEZ fees.

I’m based up in the north, but definitely to bear in mind if visiting London. Thanks.

[Waqar92]

I’ve been told that the Geartronic box is sealed for life. At 90k I would want to change the oil. But local mechanic mentioned that it doesn’t need to be done.

Anyone here had issues with an unserviced G/T box?

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Waqar92

Hi,

I’ve purchased a 2014 S60 D5 Lux Nav R-Line G/T. Seems to have quite a bit of kit on it, many extras which I’m learning what they do.

I’m having it delivered over the coming days.

I’ve had a VW Golf for 9 years. Been a great car but wanted something little more powerful and better than what I had. Car is getting on a bit. Don’t want to sell it until I am fully comfortable that this car is as sound as it should be for this age.

I know nothing about Volvo’s prior to the last month or so. Did my research and decided this model was the better engine from all.

What common issues do these cars face? Anything I should be looking out for, that could later cause problems?

Car has about 90k on the clock, with good service history (9 stamps).

Any advice would be massively appreciated.

Thank you.

Waqar

The most common issue is the auxiliary belt snapping, wrapping itself with the cam belt and destroying the engine.

The timing belt needs changing every 10 years or 108,000 miles (whichever comes first). If there's no record of it being done, get it replaced ASAP. The car is 10 years old, so by right, its technically due replacement if it hasn't been done already.

Whilst you're at it, replace the auxiliary belt, auxiliary belt tensioner and the air con belt. Use genuine Volvo parts if at all possible and not the cheap aftermarket junk.

Definitely get the transmission serviced. If you don't service it, then it can lead to issues. Your transmission takes JWS3324 or AW-1 fluid. Its quite expensive, but once the transmission has had a good service, it should be fine for another 50k. If you tow, then you want to change it more frequently than that (every 30k or so).

Keep up with the oil changes and make sure you change the fuel filter.

Other common issues;

-Windscreen can leak due to the bonding along the top of the window failing. The only way to fix it is to get the windscreen removed and rebonded.

-Rear trailing arm bushes can fail. If you hear a knock or a squeak coming from the rear end of the car, its likely the bushes that have failed. You need a press tool to remove the old ones and to fit the new ones in place, plus an alignment afterwards.

-Battery in the alarm siren can fail, meaning the alarm can go off randomly on its own. The battery can be replaced, but if it has leaked onto the circuit board inside the alarm siren module, there's no point replacing just the battery. It'll need a new module.

D5's are brilliant engines. Its snapping belts that destroys them more often than not. They're solid cars capable of mammoth mileage if maintained. Look after it and it'll look after you.

Find a good Volvo specialist if you don't fancy doing the work yourself.

[Waqar92]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

The most common issue is the auxiliary belt snapping, wrapping itself with the cam belt and destroying the engine.

The timing belt needs changing every 10 years or 108,000 miles (whichever comes first). If there's no record of it being done, get it replaced ASAP. The car is 10 years old, so by right, its technically due replacement if it hasn't been done already.

Whilst you're at it, replace the auxiliary belt, auxiliary belt tensioner and the air con belt. Use genuine Volvo parts if at all possible and not the cheap aftermarket junk.

Definitely get the transmission serviced. If you don't service it, then it can lead to issues. Your transmission takes JWS3324 or AW-1 fluid. Its quite expensive, but once the transmission has had a good service, it should be fine for another 50k. If you tow, then you want to change it more frequently than that (every 30k or so).

Keep up with the oil changes and make sure you change the fuel filter.

Other common issues;

-Windscreen can leak due to the bonding along the top of the window failing. The only way to fix it is to get the windscreen removed and rebonded.

-Rear trailing arm bushes can fail. If you hear a knock or a squeak coming from the rear end of the car, its likely the bushes that have failed. You need a press tool to remove the old ones and to fit the new ones in place, plus an alignment afterwards.

-Battery in the alarm siren can fail, meaning the alarm can go off randomly on its own. The battery can be replaced, but if it has leaked onto the circuit board inside the alarm siren module, there's no point replacing just the battery. It'll need a new module.

D5's are brilliant engines. Its snapping belts that destroys them more often than not. They're solid cars capable of mammoth mileage if maintained. Look after it and it'll look after you.

Find a good Volvo specialist if you don't fancy doing the work yourself.

Thank you very much for the above. Extremely helpful. Little worried that I haven’t made a bad choice as I have paid quite a bit for this (middle of £7k). But providing the motor is good, I do keep my car for long so I can justify if I can get a good 10 years or about 100k miles, mostly motorway (regular commute to Glasgow and back which is around 350mile round trip and to work and back couple days a week which is about 50 mile round trip. Plan to be doing some road trips around the UK, as summer approaches (hopefully…).

I’m going to drive the car about for about a week to see if mechanically it’s all solid. In that time, I’ll have it checked under by local mechanic to rule any of the above issues and other potential issue. If there are any surprises, I’ll be sending it straight back under distant selling regulation.

For transmission, is a simple drain and replace oil sufficient? I believe something needs to be reset in the process which only dealers can do?

[scissors]

Great advice above.

One thing I'd add is to check the motor housings for the parking brake on the rear callipers. If they are cracked or show signs of damage best to get them replaced. Water ingress leads to rusting of the spline that connects the motor to the calliper and one day you'll put the handbrake on, the splines will strip and the handbrake won't release.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Waqar92

Thank you very much for the above. Extremely helpful. Little worried that I haven’t made a bad choice as I have paid quite a bit for this (middle of £7k). But providing the motor is good, I do keep my car for long so I can justify if I can get a good 10 years or about 100k miles, mostly motorway (regular commute to Glasgow and back which is around 350mile round trip and to work and back couple days a week which is about 50 mile round trip. Plan to be doing some road trips around the UK, as summer approaches (hopefully…).

I’m going to drive the car about for about a week to see if mechanically it’s all solid. In that time, I’ll have it checked under by local mechanic to rule any of the above issues and other potential issue. If there are any surprises, I’ll be sending it straight back under distant selling regulation.

For transmission, is a simple drain and replace oil sufficient? I believe something needs to be reset in the process which only dealers can do?

Volvo specialists will be able to do it too. If you phone the dealer and ask for a transmission service, most of them say "Its sealed for life, you don't need to do it". Don't take any heed of that... all fluids need to be changed. If you want the transmission to last, it must be serviced. Not only that, its vitally important that the correct fluid is used.

Volvo specialists are usually equipped with VIDA (Volvo diagnostics). VIDA is required to reset the adaption memory (how the car changes gear basically and how smooth the gear changes are, taking into account that its got new fluid), and to tell the computer in the car that the transmission has been serviced.

Although resetting the adaption memory isn't critical, as the car "learns" how to shift by itself at its own pace, based on your driving style. Its still best practice to reset the adaptions, to speed the "learning" process up. Without VIDA, you can't do that. Nor will you be able to tell the car there's new fluid in the transmission.

So your options are find a Volvo specialist local to you and let them do it. Alternatively, buy a laptop with VIDA installed and do it yourself. If doing it yourself, you need some tools like a jack/jack stands or ramps, sockets, a funnel, the fluid itself and your VIDA setup.

This video shows what's involved/what you need.

+ YouTube Video

[Waqar92]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

Volvo specialists will be able to do it too. If you phone the dealer and ask for a transmission service, most of them say "Its sealed for life, you don't need to do it". Don't take any heed of that... all fluids need to be changed. If you want the transmission to last, it must be serviced. Not only that, its vitally important that the correct fluid is used.

Volvo specialists are usually equipped with VIDA (Volvo diagnostics). VIDA is required to reset the adaption memory (how the car changes gear basically and how smooth the gear changes are, taking into account that its got new fluid), and to tell the computer in the car that the transmission has been serviced.

Although resetting the adaption memory isn't critical, as the car "learns" how to shift by itself at its own pace, based on your driving style. Its still best practice to reset the adaptions, to speed the "learning" process up. Without VIDA, you can't do that. Nor will you be able to tell the car there's new fluid in the transmission.

So your options are find a Volvo specialist local to you and let them do it. Alternatively, buy a laptop with VIDA installed and do it yourself. If doing it yourself, you need some tools like a jack/jack stands or ramps, sockets, a funnel, the fluid itself and your VIDA setup.

This video shows what's involved/what you need.

Thank you for response.

I did ask a Volvo specialist, who advised that they don’t need servicing and will go on without issues. He mentioned with another model, they have few issues which can be corrected with a software update (assuming that he was taking about VIDA) but mentioned it doesn’t make significant improvement to the transmission/not worth doing. I do want to get it done if it should be done. I need to know who will do it, and confidently complete the process with the transmission reset.

I’m up in northwest of England. Any recommendations of who I can take it to?

The car should be arriving tomorrow, so I will update here hopefully over the weekend when I get a chance to drive. Looking forward to it (and hoping all is in good working order/condition as described).

[Waqar92]

Additional to the above, I don’t mind trying it myself. I think VIDA with a laptop comes to around £250? It seems like a straightforward process watching the video. Anyone here serviced the transmission themselves, and did you face any challenges?