|
850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
Information |
|
Weird rattle from near side rear corner!Views : 2901 Replies : 22Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jan 14th, 2020, 10:05 | #11 |
Master Member
Last Online: Aug 3rd, 2023 09:39
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Chesterfield
|
Just a thought, are your rear bass speakers loose? That would fit within the "below roof bin but above boot". Metallic rattles are usually down to loose spring clips on inner brake pads. Best way to test is apply light brake pressure when the rattle is present and see if the noise stops.
__________________
02 V70 2.4 Torslander Nautic blue, black leather, rear spoiler and tethys 17" wheels 03 C70 2.4 T GT Convertible Nautic blue, blue roof, beige leather. SOLD 05 C70 2.3 T5 GT Convertible Silver, black roof, black (grey leather) Collection interior |
The Following User Says Thank You to tony209 For This Useful Post: |
Jan 15th, 2020, 12:01 | #12 | |
V70 TDi CD
Last Online: Sep 28th, 2023 23:47
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: FALMOUTH..CORNWALL
|
Quote:
No, I didn't have any special tools. I basically burnt the rubber bushings out with a gas blowtorch. Sounds more outrageous than it actually is. Yes, it was a bit of mare, but mainly because I was laying on the ground, not doing the actual job, and although I'm still pretty fit and strong, I am in my late sixties now.. So yes, it is possible to do without special tools. Its not a job I'd like to be doing every day, but I've done a lot worse that's for sure, and wouldn't be that horrified to do again. Although I'm hoping the bushings will see me out now.. ha ha..
__________________
My old Turquoise 850 TDi GLT & my present Garnet Red V70 TDi CD My 1998 V70 TDi CD : http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/album.php?albumid=654 |
|
Jan 15th, 2020, 13:58 | #13 | |
Member
Last Online: Sep 17th, 2023 23:56
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Birmingham
|
Quote:
When I can I'll take a look (currently preoccupied with my '98 V70 cyl head job), but I'd appreciate any guidance as to how to remove the trim: is it just a matter of undoing every screw/fastener I can find that stops the trim coming off, or is there some sort of special sequence involved? This seems to be a common fault, so contributions to identifying and resolving the problem would be great. Any more details on the flap/spring thing (such as id'ing the spring for replacement)?
__________________
1998 V70 T5, B5234T3 |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Distendo For This Useful Post: |
Jan 15th, 2020, 19:45 | #14 | |
VOC Member
Last Online: Today 22:50
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northampton
|
Quote:
1, There is a lot of stuff behind the trim panels in the boot that may have come loose. The boot trim panels remove quite easily and should be obvious. 2. The little flap that stands up inside the car when the roof is closed was rattling due to a weak spring. I replaced the whole flap assembly with a good secondhand one so don't have a spec for the spring. Removing the rear interior trim panels is quite involved. First remove the rear seat cushion by pulling up quite sharply on the front edge of the cushion. There are two lugs that clip in to slots under the front edge that need releasing by pulling the seat up. Then look under the backrest for two 13mm nuts - one either side - undo these. Remove the centre bolster and unclip from its tether. Do not undo the seatbelts. Pull the bottom of the backrest forward slightly, enough to get your hand in behind from the centre where the bolster has been removed. Reach up and feel for the release catches for the headrests - two for each headrest. Release the catches and simultaneously pull the headrest upwards to remove - they can be quite stiff. Once both headrests are removed the backrest can be lifted upwards and released from its top edge ready to be removed. Pull on the seatbelt webbing and manoeuvre the backrest out of the car. Now you have access to the side trim panels where the screws and hidden clips should be obvious. Once the panel is released from the bottom it needs to be lifted upwards to release the top edge by the window glass. The little roof flaps are attached to the interior trim panels and cannot be replaced without removing the interior panel. There is an operating rod on the flap that has to be undone before removing the panel. Once the rear seat backrest is removed and the side trim panels you have access to the whole of the interior of the car so should be able to trace any rattles. If you do remove the trim panels for any reason it is a good idea to replace the rear courtesy light bulbs - I put LED's in mine - as the trim has to be removed to change a bulb. HTH.
__________________
2001 V40 2.0lt Sport lux - Daily Driver. 174k miles. 2003 C70 2.4 GT Convertible - Garage Queen. 65k miles. http://www.neptuno6benagil.com |
|
Jan 16th, 2020, 09:09 | #15 | |
Master Member
Last Online: Dec 15th, 2023 08:44
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Twickenham
|
Rear Bushings
Quote:
I too have to work outside on the drive and am currently waiting for the summer before I replace a front suspension arm on our Golf. Last year when we had good autumn weather I replaced a front drop link and a brake caliper on the V70. I'm still able to do these jobs but now have to plan carefully that all tools are at hand otherwise getting back up from underneath is more of a chore than it used to be back in the 60's! Don't think my rear bushings (on the car) need attention yet but when the time comes I may pass it over to my local garage.
__________________
Turboboy Current: 1998 Volvo V70 2.3 T5 Auto. Previous: 2000 Volvo V40 T4; 1981/2 265 (x2); 1988 740 Turbo Estate. |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to turboboy For This Useful Post: |
Jan 22nd, 2020, 20:02 | #17 |
New Member
Last Online: Mar 10th, 2020 15:57
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Luton
|
Found it!
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and comments, after removing the rear seats and backrest then the speakers, I put my hand in the gap and found...absolutely nothing wrong.
So put it all back together and took it to a local family-run workshop, he popped it straight up on the ramp and after wiggling a few things we found that the rear spring wasn't bolted in properly! There is a clamp that holds the spring against the base plate, and when the springs were replaced (before I bought the car) they obviously didn't replace it properly. 30 seconds with a socket and it was all fixed! I was also told that there was absolutely no need to drain the brake fluids to access the handbrake drum, something Halfords charges me £40 for as they had to replace it. So I went back to Halfords explain what had happened, what the fault actually was and amazingly I was offered a full refund, goes to show that sometimes it is worth going back to make a fuss.
__________________
2004 VOLVO C70 T GT AUTO |
Jan 22nd, 2020, 20:04 | #18 |
New Member
Last Online: Mar 10th, 2020 15:57
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Luton
|
That's what Halfords thought, but alas it was not to be!
__________________
2004 VOLVO C70 T GT AUTO |
Jan 22nd, 2020, 20:07 | #19 | |
New Member
Last Online: Mar 10th, 2020 15:57
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Luton
|
Quote:
__________________
2004 VOLVO C70 T GT AUTO |
|
Jan 28th, 2020, 20:44 | #20 |
Member
Last Online: Oct 24th, 2022 08:23
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sheffield
|
I had this on my v70. It was the lower spring retainer. It was incredibly difficult to diagnose because the only time you could tell was 20-40 mph slightly rough roads like you describe.
Put your fingers inside the bottom of the spring and give it a jiggle. Easy fix tightening up the nut that is on the underside of suspension should sort it. Only issue is sometimes they are loose because the bottom of the spring has broken. Hope you sort it. |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|