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XC90 '02–'15 General Forum for the P2-platform XC90 model |
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xc90 parking brake upgradeViews : 2429 Replies : 10Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 11th, 2019, 11:17 | #1 |
minstrelblue
Last Online: Apr 1st, 2023 21:26
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: upminster
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xc90 parking brake upgrade
hi,
my 2009 xc90 parking brake is appalling and despite adjusting the threaded rod under the centre console it's still very poor so i've invested in the parking brake adjusters that replaces the 'h' bar in the rear drums, my question is should i slack off the centre console threaded bar beforehand and once ive fitted the new rear drum upgrade adjuster how do i set it all up, ie, do i adjust the rears until there,s some friction and then do the threaded notch bar under the console, so some detailed steps to guide me would be appreciated. thanks [ hope this makes sense!] neil |
Apr 11th, 2019, 11:38 | #2 | |
Me ? Surely Not!
Last Online: Apr 5th, 2024 16:23
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 2007 Volvo XC90 D5 Geartronic. South of Hadrians Wall.
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Quote:
Get slack into the system via centre adjuster, assemble rear brake shoes with new manual adjusters in place and then replace drum. Adjust newly installed units via wheel bolt hole until very slight resistance is felt. Depress parking brake by two notches and then go to centre adjuster. This needs adjusting correctly and remember to reinstall the locking C clip once done. I will try to find link to correct procedure for this and update this reply. They are well worth fitting.
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“Do the right thing. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest.” – Mark Twain 😊 2007 Volvo XC90 D5 SE Geartronic |
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Apr 11th, 2019, 11:43 | #3 |
Me ? Surely Not!
Last Online: Apr 5th, 2024 16:23
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 2007 Volvo XC90 D5 Geartronic. South of Hadrians Wall.
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“Do the right thing. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest.” – Mark Twain 😊 2007 Volvo XC90 D5 SE Geartronic |
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Apr 11th, 2019, 12:04 | #4 |
Bungling Amateur
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Location: Beverley, East Yorks
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My suggestion....
Completely slacken the adjuster in the centre console, then fit the in-drum adjusters. Then tighten the in-drum adjusters until you cannot turn the wheels at all or they are really difficult. Then slacken them 1/8th turn at a time until the first point at which you can turn the wheel until you feel no drag. Then set the adjuster in the centre console as described. The engineering principle is that the in-drum adjuster should maintain the shoe/drum clearance. The centre console adjuster maintains the resting slack in the cable. Two further suggestions... : - You must check the inside edge of the discs where the parking brake shoes contact for corrosion - if corroded then new discs needed or machining. You will not get a satisfactory parking brake if the discs are noticiably corroded, you cannot simply remove the corrosion with use as polished rust has a much lower friction coefficient than steel. - Once set up - drive the car slowly and apply the handbrake to 3/4 effort - dive the car abound 150 feet like this to bed the shoes in. Do this 2 or 3 times, then repeat process about for the best parking brake possible. Maintain the brake by driving 150 feet with moderate parking brake applied say once a month.
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2011 XC90 D5 Executive 2003 C70 T5 GT 2012 Ford Ranger XL SC 1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 1976 Massey Ferguson 135 Last edited by Tannaton; Apr 11th, 2019 at 12:09. |
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Apr 12th, 2019, 12:02 | #5 |
minstrelblue
Last Online: Apr 1st, 2023 21:26
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Location: upminster
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thanks for the info. will follow those steps and hope it solves it, mot due in may and it'll never pass as it is, so fingers crossed
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Jul 19th, 2019, 21:28 | #6 | |
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Last Online: Apr 12th, 2024 20:35
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Location: Tonbridge
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Thanks in advance. |
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Jul 19th, 2019, 21:55 | #7 | |
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Jul 20th, 2019, 09:39 | #8 | |
Bungling Amateur
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Clan is of course quite right to point out that Volvo never fitted these parts to the XC90 and there is no recommendation from Volvo to retrofit them (unlike the later manual adjusting parking brake pedals) and if the system is in tip top condition you wouldn't need them. We also see a lot of people fitting them thinking it will sort an MOT issue, when the most common problem is corroded drum surfaces from lack of use and ineffective non-genuine shoes. My own opinion though is that the parking brake system could have been designed better from an engineering perspective - the clearance between the shoes and the drum which will be a fraction of a millimeter shouldn't be controlled keeping a cable over 2 metres long under tension. When the cable ages, it will inevitable have more friction in it and this will make adjustment of the system more difficult and a sticking brake more likely. If a car at a dealer had these issues then the cables would likely be replaced and normal working order restored, but a more robust and reliable engineering solution would be to have a mechanism in the drum to control the shoe/drum clearance and the adjustment in the cable is merely to take the slack out of it. In some ways it's strange that Volvo did not fit the adjusters to the XC90 as they are available as a genuine Volvo part and some other Volvo models did have them - the only meaningful difference on those cars was the parking brake was operated by a hand level not a foot pedal.
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2011 XC90 D5 Executive 2003 C70 T5 GT 2012 Ford Ranger XL SC 1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 1976 Massey Ferguson 135 Last edited by Tannaton; Jul 20th, 2019 at 09:43. |
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Jul 21st, 2019, 00:33 | #9 |
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Thanks for the advice, Tannaton. I'll orient the adjusters as you suggest. I agree with you and Clan about this not being an orthodox solution but if it helps to get me through this MOT it'll have done it's job.
I did replace the front section of the cable a year ago and it passed MOT then, but it's slackened since then so I'll readjust it via the usual adjuster barrel in the centre console and I hope the shoe adjusters will be a belt and braces approach. If I have to replace the shoes, it's easy enough to do at a later date, but I don't want to fork out for new shoes in the next week or so. |
Jul 25th, 2019, 19:20 | #10 | |
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^^This. I would add worn cables. Mines are worn (still original ones) and very weak. I put the adjusters and it helped a little for a while - it also removed that 'free' roll before it engages. But these adjusters need to be adjusted manually periodically as the shoes wear off. Ideally, the entire cables need replaced because they get damaged internally - can look at the place where the cable enters the drum from behind - the cable must have a small round seal here which cracks and fails after years, then water gets inside the cable and damages it.
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