Lambda Sensor issue

[960kg]

Originally Posted by mitchyboy01

Ntk are good to go they are the O2 sensor division of ngk if I'm not mistaken. They supply lambdas to Volkswagen and other manufacturers as oe equipment That's what I use on my T4 with no probs.

The rear lambda sensors job is only to ensure the cat is working. It basically compares it's reading to the front sensor to make sure there is a difference. My car is a decat so I have a spacer to put the rear sensor away from the exhaust gasses enough not to throw a code.

Also before you get carried away and sell the car, do a compression test, I doubt your rings are fecked. The low oil is probably due to your previous turbo leaking past the seals. I'm sure when I had a lambda code it didn't mention heater circuit.

The heater circuit is only used in cold start anyway. Obviously after a minute or two when The gases heat it up it should function fine, as long as it's only the heater at fault. Does the car idle ok and run smooth at part throttle?

You cannot safely say that that "NTK are good to go" you probably get away with it on your motor because it is no longer Volvo spec.

On my completely standard `98 T4 i had the out of cat adapter i fitted did not work at all, the light still came on. I still have the adapter doing nothing in the garage as i took it off again.

You know standard Volvo spec. T4`s are very fussy and you can only throw genuine Volvo parts at them other wise it can be more expensive in the long run trying to save money and it costing a lot more after buying twice as many sensors.

This happened to Grant with his greatly modified T4 he asked me about part numbers and the part was correct so he bought them and he had terrible problems even though the same number was on the part. He failed two MOT`s and failed on emissions. What a waste of £100 .In the end he bought new proper spec. ones and it solved his problem.

It is just a minefield out there of copy parts and they all try to grab your money and then they laugh there tits off, buy genuine Volvo whether you can afford or not, just save for them and have no problems.

A Volvo is not a Volkswagen or any other make and are at the forefront of development of vehicles frequently spoiled by the so called Volvo enthusiast.

Why do you think only T4`s prefer VOLVO own plugs, they have Bosch written on them but the Volvo ones are made by Bosch to Volvo`s own copyright spec. and that is why they work with no problems. The same goes for the O2 sensor give the car what it rightly deserves to run properly.

[chomerly]

It's going to take me a little while to sort out for two lambdas but i'll get onto FRF and see what they are costing these days.

I'm a little apprehensive though because if there is a further problem that could end up knackering new sensors i won't be very happy.
I also need to get a compression test done but no one i know has a tester for me to borrow.

I have work tomorrow afternoon and won't be back until Monday morning.
I think i'll have to have a search on eBay for a tester or at the least get it into a garage for them to look at.

[mitchyboy01]

Originally Posted by 960kg

You cannot safely say that that "NTK are good to go" you probably get away with it on your motor because it is no longer Volvo spec.

On my completely standard `98 T4 i had the out of cat adapter i fitted did not work at all, the light still came on. I still have the adapter doing nothing in the garage as i took it off again.

You know standard Volvo spec. T4`s are very fussy and you can only throw genuine Volvo parts at them other wise it can be more expensive in the long run trying to save money and it costing a lot more after buying twice as many sensors.

This happened to Grant with his greatly modified T4 he asked me about part numbers and the part was correct so he bought them and he had terrible problems even though the same number was on the part. He failed two MOT`s and failed on emissions. What a waste of £100 .In the end he bought new proper spec. ones and it solved his problem.

It is just a minefield out there of copy parts and they all try to grab your money and then they laugh there tits off, buy genuine Volvo whether you can afford or not, just save for them and have no problems.

A Volvo is not a Volkswagen or any other make and are at the forefront of development of vehicles frequently spoiled by the so called Volvo enthusiast.

Why do you think only T4`s prefer VOLVO own plugs, they have Bosch written on them but the Volvo ones are made by Bosch to Volvo`s own copyright spec. and that is why they work with no problems. The same goes for the O2 sensor give the car what it rightly deserves to run properly.

Why would it make any difference to my lamdas that my setup is not stock? The lambdas still do the same job. My ECU is still stock and takes it's readings from the lambdas? If it saw out of parameter readings (which is more likely with a modded car) it would still throw a code.

We need to be sure it's the lambdas at fault, as you cannot take them back once used. Imagine buying 2 genuine Volvo lambdas and crying if it's not the problem and you can't take them back. Seems strange, both heater circuits going duff at the same time???

Has anyone got any spare (known to be good) lambdas they could lend? Obviously, if the lambda is 100% faulty then replace with genuine Volvo if you can afford.

[T4Rick]

Ive used unipart lambda sensors and never had a problem

[960kg]

Originally Posted by mitchyboy01

Why would it make any difference to my lamdas that my setup is not stock? The lambdas still do the same job. My ECU is still stock and takes it's readings from the lambdas? If it saw out of parameter readings (which is more likely with a modded car) it would still throw a code.

We need to be sure it's the lambdas at fault, as you cannot take them back once used. Imagine buying 2 genuine Volvo lambdas and crying if it's not the problem and you can't take them back. Seems strange, both heater circuits going duff at the same time???

Has anyone got any spare (known to be good) lambdas they could lend? Obviously, if the lambda is 100% faulty then replace with genuine Volvo if you can afford.

I don`t think you understand my reasons for saying get genuine Volvo sensors, it is the cheapest way out UNLESS you do your own homework and sus out a successful equivalent but for a newbie fitting inferior parts to get the same error code come up and then go on to mention rings, compression etc. it is not the way to do things as he could have all the engine in bits to recondition only to find on re-starting that it is still the inferior sensors causing the trouble.

When one fits 2nd parts or copy parts you don`t know where you are with the engine unless you are lucky and it all works correctly but this is seldom the case especially with MAF`s. They will buy of eBay and then eventually get the proper Volvo one so what a way to do things, the owner ends up pi$$ed off with his new to him Volvo just beause he fitted a bad part. Then the owner will go on to something else because he thinks the MAF is ok but really it isn`t, so eventually a load of dosh has been spent on bad parts and the car is probably giving 15mpg together with very poor performance and starting issues.

"" The rear lambda sensors job is only to ensure the cat is working. It basically compares it's reading to the front sensor to make sure there is a difference. My car is a decat so I have a spacer to put the rear sensor away from the exhaust gasses enough not to throw a code ""

You should read Vadis or Vida thoroughly as this is not true.

The rear sensor in the cat not only makes sure the cat. is working ok but also works in conjunction with the front sensor making sure the readings give the correct fuel mixture etc. for best performance. For you to use the rear out adapter permanently just because you haven`t a cat. will not let the engine give it`s best as proper readings are only being given by the front sensor so at the expense of not having the light on you lose out. You can`t get something for nothing.

Originally Posted by T4Rick

Ive used unipart lambda sensors and never had a problem

I am pleased you sorted out when you replaced your sensors but you are one of the lucky ones.

Owners trying to save a bit on parts because of this global situation nearly always fall foul because of inferior parts....some work and some don`t.

I only try to help owners the best way to attack a problem, i can never condone the use of poor replacement parts.

[chomerly]

If there was someone I knew with a T4, or someone on the forums who lives close by, it would be a huge help to me if they were willing to allow me to use their lambda's just so I can isolate whether or not the issue is purely down to those parts.

I do however, have one reservation.
If, and I do mean if, there is an issue with the car blowing oil because of faulty valve stem seals or piston rings, I wouldn't want to borrow someone's sensors for fear of the oil contaminating them and wrecking the things.

This is all premature though as I still have to do the compression test.
I have ordered a compression tester and as soon as it arrives I will do the test and go from there.

[mitchyboy01]

Originally Posted by chomerly

If there was someone I knew with a T4, or someone on the forums who lives close by, it would be a huge help to me if they were willing to allow me to use their lambda's just so I can isolate whether or not the issue is purely down to those parts.

I do however, have one reservation.
If, and I do mean if, there is an issue with the car blowing oil because of faulty valve stem seals or piston rings, I wouldn't want to borrow someone's sensors for fear of the oil contaminating them and wrecking the things.

This is all premature though as I still have to do the compression test.
I have ordered a compression tester and as soon as it arrives I will do the test and go from there.

Compression test is good for a general heath check. Doesn't confirm anything 100% but will generally tell you if something is seriously amiss. Usually a first point of call if your car is using a load of oil and it's not the turbo. Post up the results and try to do the test on a warm engine =)

[chomerly]

Just a quick update.

Before going to bed in a bit (been at work since 14:00 yesterday afternoon) i thought i'd use my OBD2 device again.

I read the codes and interestingly only one of the sensors is throwing up a heater sensor circuit code.
I believe that the code was the same for the previous rear sensor prior to me changing it.

Another piece of bad news is that i think the VVT pulley wheel is on the way out.
When the engine was ticking over i could hear what sounded like a rattle/grinding noise coming from the top area of the engine bay.

When it rains it pours as they say.

The compression tester should be here within the next couple of days so i'll know a lot more then.

[960kg]

Originally Posted by chomerly

Just a quick update.

Before going to bed in a bit (been at work since 14:00 yesterday afternoon) i thought i'd use my OBD2 device again.

I read the codes and interestingly only one of the sensors is throwing up a heater sensor circuit code.
I believe that the code was the same for the previous rear sensor prior to me changing it.

Another piece of bad news is that i think the VVT pulley wheel is on the way out.
When the engine was ticking over i could hear what sounded like a rattle/grinding noise coming from the top area of the engine bay.

When it rains it pours as they say.

The compression tester should be here within the next couple of days so i'll know a lot more then.

I am not being rude at all BUT i don`t think you are fully aware of what you are doing so therefore things may cost you more of a fortune!!

The reason i say this is according to your signature you do NOT have VVT so why do you think it is on it`s way out??

If you motor is different from your sig. then ignore what i have said, but it appears that you are going from pillar to post without fixing any problem as you go!

[chomerly]

No offence taken 960.

Do the T4's not have a VVT then?
I remember watching a video on YouTube a little while back and it was by chance that i came across a video of what a VVT wheel sounds like when it is on the way out.

This grinding sound that i heard yesterday morning sounded very similar to what i remember so i assumed it was the same issue, or at least the beginning of the same issue.

I don't know much about Volvo's as this is my very first one.
I have taken a video which will hopefully give a little clarity to what i heard.
I wil get it uploaded sometime tomorrow.