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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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'99 2.0i, tuning potential?Views : 1428 Replies : 17Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 27th, 2014, 22:20 | #1 |
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'99 2.0i, tuning potential?
Hi all, while my car isn't really slow, it's certainly not as eager as I'd like, so I was just wondering what I may be able to do to get a bit more performance out of it.
On previous pre catalytic converter cars with carburettors and no ecu as such I have gone for a freer flowing exhaust system (not just a tarty back box lol) fuel mixture adjustment, a slight timing advance and a decent induction kit, which have added a noticeable increase in grunt, and my last petrol car (98 BMW 328i sport) I decatted it and added a high flow performance panel air filter in the original air box and added a bigger and better cold air feed, it already had a stainless exhaust system so my additions made a marked difference. I remember reading that the v40 can't cope with a decat because it throws the engine management light on, so I was wondering if a high flow cat combined with a slightly oversized exhaust system and better induction would be a worthwhile route to go down? Many thanks in advance. |
Aug 27th, 2014, 22:52 | #2 |
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The V40 was designed as a family estate car, so if you own one and are are not happy with the performance, I think it makes more sense to sell it and buy a car that was designed to be a real sports car, although if it's a 2.0 the
T4 is slightly better. Changing the entire intake and exhaust system will only produce more power if you upgrade the MAP. If you mod an old worn block it will often result in a premature failure and the same applies to the transmission system.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) |
Aug 27th, 2014, 23:46 | #3 |
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First up, ignore Skyship, he hates modified Volvos and thinks only the V40 diesel is worth having and the rest are junk.
Secondly, the map thing is rubbish. You don't have to upgrade that at all. No idea why that was said either. Unfortunately with it being a NA engine there isn't too much you can do to get a lot of power from it over standard. A decent straight through exhaust system will see improved torque, I'm not sure if you would really notice it though as turbo charged cars benefit the most from them with reduced spool up times. Stay away from cone filters, Antz on here did a test a while back and you just can't get the cold air in, you lose power. Stick with a K&N panel or OEM. Other than that it's a case of exhaust system and just make sure it's serviced well. You could spend a lot of time/money changing bits and at best see maybe 10bhp over stock. If you're really after power then get a T4 - they're setup for it. Last edited by Alex121; Aug 27th, 2014 at 23:48. |
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Aug 28th, 2014, 11:46 | #4 |
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clarkey1984, Like Alex says there isnt much point in modding a 2.0 NA, i have one on an 04 plate and really the easiest way to go a bit quicker is put your foot down harder. I researched and there is no map available from any of the big names in that industry, I guess there isnt much point, at 136BHP for the time it was making a decent amount of power for a 2.0 petrol. Even the 2.0 BMW straight 6 was only make 150BHP, vw's 2.0 NA 4 banger at the time in the passat and golf was 115BHP although it is an 8v, even the earlier 2.0 4 pot from volvo (used in the 740 among others) was 122BHP.
Its not too bad is my conclusion, but at the end of the day its a familly car and its comfy and easy to drive and live with.....God im getting old!
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Aug 28th, 2014, 12:53 | #5 |
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If you're just out to get the most of what's already there, you've answered your own question. The rest depends on what needs replacing & how much you're willing to waste
I've had mine from new and just want to keep it. I don't want the full on Turbo Nutter Ba****d and the more I read the more "T" now stands for Trouble in these ageing cars. What have I done? The exhaust system needed replacing from the cat back, it cost £295 to have a bespoke Stainless system made and fitted; when the cat has finally had enough, which won't be long, I'll have a free-flowing one fitted. The exhaust, standard K&N air filter panel made a difference but so did getting the engine Terracleaned. After that it's going to be down to how much money I'm willing to waste. No one plans to keep these, or any ageing car for economic sense, they're either disposable items or cherished. The following may provide some ideas too: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=5&t=55150
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Aug 31st, 2014, 12:49 | #6 |
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Thanks guys, I'll speak to my mate who's very handy with steel and a welder, see if he can't knock me up a tubey exhaust manifold, and I'll definitely be looking into a high flow cat and an uprated in box air filter as well, plus one of my dad's mates used to have a t4 system in his garage from his old car so with a bit of fettling I may be able to get that to fit.
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Aug 31st, 2014, 14:42 | #7 |
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I still think you will waste a lot of money tuning up a V40 2.0. The final value could easily be less than a normal one, because if you decide to sell it one day, then someone looking for a more powerful V40 will be looking for the T4 version and not a 2.0 that has been fiddled with. Anyone looking for a normal 2.0 is likely to steer clear of a tuned one because they are more likely to be worn out and cost more in fuel and insurance terms.
In resale value terms, if I was looking to play around with an engine, then I would buy some cheap classic sports car that was in need of restoration. That way the work done in restoring it would add value to the car and the final result would be a real sports car, not a bodged up family saloon.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) Last edited by skyship007; Aug 31st, 2014 at 14:44. |
Aug 31st, 2014, 15:04 | #8 | |
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Aug 31st, 2014, 15:41 | #9 |
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You have a T4 Sport, not a 2.0 and the three main conversions listed in your signature all seem to be professional ones, so I would not use the term bodged for your car.
If I was going to tune a car, I would avoid a high mileage one, because it's difficult to sell a high mileage car even if it is in good condition. High mileage engines and transmissions are also more likely to suffer a failure when tuned.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) |
Aug 31st, 2014, 15:55 | #10 | |
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I guess I'm lucky engine wise, despite being high mileage now, the compression test before the remap showed 3/4 cylinders were only 3psi down from what they were when it rolled off the line a few years back and the third cylinder (always burns the hottest apparently) was only 5psi down. It hasn't used a drop of oil in nearly a month so seems like it's a good'n. Still, a fully forged rebuild is on the cards in the near future as a precaution. I've yet to hear of an M56 box fail on anyone... |
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