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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Windscreen wiper arms for 90 740 saloonViews : 1011 Replies : 15Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 26th, 2018, 12:07 | #1 |
Ye olde Volvii galore!
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Windscreen wiper arms for 90 740 saloon
Hi all,
Any ideas on where to get a new pair of these? Mine are rusty in places and the car would benefit cosmetically from a new pair. I cant find any online though-are 940 arms compatible or am I barking (wiping?) up the wrong tree? I could remove and recondition mine with some time and love, but Id rather just slap a new pair on and spend more time on the more important odds and sods that I need to attend to on the car. Any and all advice gratefully received as always! Phil
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Jul 26th, 2018, 17:53 | #2 |
bob12
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Maybe, just maybe, have you tried your Volvo main dealer? Sometimes they can get things like this, and sometime, just sometimes, the price is keen. Of course, you will also be paying for the splined boss to fit the drive spindle rather than just a bit of bent metal! If it were me I would properly refurbish the existing at the cost of your labour and a few cans of spray paint! These arms are likely to fit 940, but having had one I am sure you know that. Best of luck in your quest.
Last edited by bob12; Jul 26th, 2018 at 18:37. |
Jul 26th, 2018, 22:49 | #3 |
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What Bob said ^^^^^^^!
You could use the electrolytic rust removing remedy to give your wiper blades a cheap (but very effective) de-rusting, wash them off then dry and prime then paint them. Will be good as new then! Except maybe the spring, they go weak after time so either tighten the tension by chopping a bit off the end and bending a new hook into the spring. Alternatively Volvo dealer might come up trumps!
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Jul 27th, 2018, 11:43 | #4 |
Ye olde Volvii galore!
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I think i might recondition mine, now you Gents have piqued my interest in it...the springs are in good nick and I have a pot of Kurust handy, so Ill give them some love in the next week or two!
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Jul 27th, 2018, 12:02 | #5 |
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If you're going to do it yourself Phil, have a look at this and leave the Kurust to fester!
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...leaning.12686/ There's a shed-load of other uses of soda crystals/washing soda and they're cheap to buy (a handful in the washing machine or dishwasher works wonders and cheaper than Calgon and similar that uses similar active ingredients) and it gives a better finish than Kurust too!
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Jul 28th, 2018, 19:40 | #6 | |
bob12
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Quote:
However, this afternoon I had to replace my passenger side sun visor as the the plastic bit that screws (2) to the roof completely disintegrated and came off in my hand this morning. I blame poor longevity quality sourcing by Volvo from the French OEM manufacturer!! Bob |
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Jul 28th, 2018, 19:45 | #7 |
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Which bit were you confused on Bob?
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Jul 28th, 2018, 19:54 | #8 |
bob12
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I assumed you were saying forget Kurust and expected to see some alternative/s, but all I got was something from mig-welding with loads of pics that that didn't open or had an '!' mark against them and some comments which didn't seem to be to what I expected.
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Jul 28th, 2018, 20:07 | #9 |
bob12
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I even just joined 'Mr Mig' but it makes no difference
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Jul 28th, 2018, 20:22 | #10 |
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Ah! It's a long time since i actually went through the thread, all the pic links seem to have broken which is a shame but if you read the wordy bits it does explain.
In simple terms, you get a sacrificial anode - a piece of mild steel. The larger the area of it immersed in the liquid, the faster the process. Then fill a bucket, window box planter, dustbin or other similar plastic vessel with hot water and add a few handfuls of soda crystals - stir to dissolve them and they dissolve better in hot water. Get your rusty piece of work (in this case, wiper blades) and connect the -ve/black wire from a very basic 12v battery charger. Connect the +ve/red wire to the sacrificial anode. Place both the anode and the work piece (cathode) in the tub/vessel so they are not touching. Switch the battery charger on and the ammeter should deflect to say 3-4A. Leave it overnight or until the current flow is down to nil. Switch off, remove and wash the workpiece with clean water. It will be almost as good, if not as good, as new. In simple terms, the rust has migrated from the piece of metal you want to restore and good metal has been deposited on your work piece. It won't effect any original plating on the metal such as chrome plating either. I've used this method many times on various things. Here's a few : Before, during and after in that order of repairing/de-rusting a fuel filler neck, also did a towbar bracket : That's part of the way through and you can see where it's got rid of the big flakes of rust back to bright and shiny metal. Wheelie bins do have alternative uses!
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