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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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clutch slave question on P1800

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Old Aug 10th, 2018, 20:20   #1
CLIVERALLY
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Default clutch slave question on P1800

Got a replacement clutch slave cylinder, fitted and bled. The issue is that the push rod supplied with the slave is long and when fitted I cannot get the nuts started on the push rod as the clutch arm does not allow it..and gives no free play what so ever . I have tried fitting a push rod from an old master cylinder which seems to fit better but again no free play and what appears very little movement...I am puzzeld ... Any ideas?
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Old Aug 10th, 2018, 23:56   #2
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I don't know what the setup looks like so I googled and found this =>

http://www.alanauto.com/1965_volvo_1800s.htm

If you scroll down the page you will see this picture



Text talks about having to shim to get the right angle.

Could that be relevant for your situation?

If not - nuts on the right side and weren't you talking about not having a release spring in another thread?
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Old Aug 11th, 2018, 00:10   #3
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What's wrong with your old slave cylinder rod? It should fit straight on. If it's scruffy/rusty it's always a good idea to run the dome nut right down the thread first to clean it. Yes the lock nut is too thin to allow you to get two spanners on the nuts when locking them so try and find a thin bicycle spanner to hold the cone one or find a wider nut for the lock nut. Mole grips on the rod often useful.
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Old Aug 11th, 2018, 08:29   #4
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Sometimes the new slaves are with a stucked piston Clive.
You are shure the piston went back full?
I open even the new ones and grease them with the special grease you will get for brake systems.
The "brake hose" ( this is a clutch system hose ;-) ) at the P1800 Army did post won't last long. The guy is proud of whow carefully and precise he is doing his job and this hose is a conterpart of this :-(

good luck, Kay
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Old Aug 11th, 2018, 08:53   #5
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Thanks everyone. I will open bleed. Push slave back and try to assemble it that way . It is something very basic which I ain't seeing
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Old Aug 11th, 2018, 10:32   #6
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I didn't make it clear in my last post (I was a bit tired) but I was thinking along the lines that the parts fitted might not be intended for the system you have. The chap (whose page I linked) seems to be cobbling bits together and adding shims - that to my mind indicates that perhaps the clutch fork fitted isn't the correct one or perhaps a different slave cylinder is being used?

I can't tell from here (sitting in my comfy armchair) what the trouble is but I should have specifically said "check the part numbers with the parts book" - and I'm only saying this because of the clutch release spring being missing - this makes me suspicious that perhaps someone was fiddling.

####

I completely agree with Kay about stripping and checking new hydraulic components. I've found swarf in new parts on more than one occasion. The ATE assembly paste is good stuff for reassembly.
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Old Aug 11th, 2018, 10:47   #7
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No probs mate..the clutch worked perfectly before changing out the master and slave. Matching the new one's to the old..they are the same
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Old Aug 11th, 2018, 13:53   #8
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Clive;

I was going to post some obvious comment about precisely comparing the replacement with the original (always!)...something has obviously changed...you just haven't identified it yet...
Know that some replacement Clutch Slaves on the market now are china trash which look the same, but sure don't function as the real Girling ones...Internal cleanliness is poor, Pistons and Return Springs have issues, Actuating Rod alignment is poor, Adjustment seems impossible...installers typically don't want to disassemble a brand new Slave Cyl, but with these, it is not such a bad thing...maybe even recommended!
Internal Spring is not very strong, but it should exert enough force to push piston to the end-of-travel when Slave is in your hand. I'd also loosen adjustment Nuts on Act Rod before reassembly to ease post-assembly adjustment and issue Derek points out (or make a thin wrench of sheet-metal). To prevent rust from jamming up Act Rod threads, I apply graphite grease and cover with a length of fuel hose...
Once installed, bleeding is quite important...
I do also recall a very similar (if not identical!) thread on this or one of the other vintage Volvo Fora...I don't recall what the cause and solution at that time were, but I'd search: here, Brickboard, Swedespeed, Volvoniacs...or maybe post to those Fora, and someone might remember thread or corrective actions.
Why did you replace your components in the first place...I guess you thought you were doing something good...personally, knowing that the replacements are often disappointing, I'd prefer rebuilding (and installing an O'Ringed piston in the slave, and converting to DOT5 fluid) to installing the questionable replacements...

Good Hunting!
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Old Aug 12th, 2018, 09:36   #9
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All done...clutch working although it is near the end of the push rod thread. The system seems to work fine . Will take it for a run thro Yorkshire Dales and see it it causes any further issue.
Ron..I changed both master and slave due to corrosion in the slave and buggered seals in the master. The Master was an original Girling but the slave was a Hong Kong often wrong type. The slave was working fine ...Will do the graphite on the rod.....
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