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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Weber carb linkage pics...Views : 2812 Replies : 34Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 15th, 2015, 03:03 | #11 |
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Last Online: Jun 26th, 2022 22:30
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Here are a few, let me know if you want anything different.
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80 Bertone 5.0 Ford swap underway. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=129720 66 Amazon Estate mild mods in the near future. (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332836) |
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Mar 15th, 2015, 03:05 | #12 |
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2 more, plus a few more required characters.
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80 Bertone 5.0 Ford swap underway. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=129720 66 Amazon Estate mild mods in the near future. (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332836) |
Mar 15th, 2015, 11:09 | #13 |
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Last Online: May 16th, 2016 13:16
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Location: Mountain Top, PA
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Here's mine. Sorry it took so long, I was out of town.
IMG_0594.JPG IMG_0595.JPG IMG_0596.JPG IMG_0597.JPG
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1965 Volvo 1800S, ch. 14293, Weber 32/36 (for now) 1976 Triumph TR6 |
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Mar 15th, 2015, 11:51 | #14 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 20:32
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Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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Thanks guys, those are great! You would not believe my linkage... I'll have to acquire the ability to post pics so that I can show you. Very earnest but way too complicated, and most importantly, not very effective and not at all adjustable.
Amused myself yesterday by resealing my leaky fuel pump and spacer and putting in a new fuel line with repositioned filter; another little job that was making me crazy. On to the linkage! |
Mar 15th, 2015, 19:43 | #15 |
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NH's horizontal rod is in dire need of the nylon grommet in the bulkhead bracket. Must have been like that long time by the look of the wear. The clamped on shaft bracket at that position should have a small amount of angle on it to work smoothly. Probably getting away with it at the moment due to having no grommet but the vertical rod could push it in either direction.
It's certainly a bit of a black art getting the lengths of the levers right to get both a smooth action and full throttle at full accelerator depression. |
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Mar 15th, 2015, 22:25 | #16 | |
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Quote:
I got around the issue by using a grinding stone in my Dremel to remove a small amount of material from the bush - nice tight fit and no play in the linkage rod. |
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Mar 15th, 2015, 23:04 | #17 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 20:32
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Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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When you really look at it, there's quite a bit going on in the linkage as far as adjustability and pedal feel and tip-in.
There's a bit more of a lag or bog there than I think there should be when getting on the highway, for example. The throttle definitely opens up all the way, but it's not smooth through the course of rapid acceleration. Is there any reputation for the Weber to do that vs. the SU's? The engine pulls great and runs nice and smooth,it's just not very linear. Wanted to get this squared away before doing my very first valve adjustment! Then I can determine whether I really do need to step up a little on my secondary jet. Just so glad to finally have it on the road and running pretty well. I feel like a kid with his first bike...every day! |
Mar 15th, 2015, 23:11 | #18 |
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Here's some pics of mine.
As mentioned earlier: the link rod bush will need modifying. Also, to provide a decent fit, I made up a spacer from a piece of silicone pipe to prevent the link rod from moving 'backwards' towards the bulkhead. It might not be 100% necessary but I like to do things as well as possible. Hint: the 'S' shaped link from the accelerator link to the choke. If you bend a slightly sharper curve in the S, it will allow the car to idle faster when cold. Without the bend, I found the fastest cold idle I could achieve was 1200 rpm. It'll now do 2000 on cold winter mornings which I prefer. The screw which holds the choke mechanism on to the carb body can be loosened, the mechanism rotated clockwise a couple of degrees and the screw re-tightened - this will also help with the fast idle. (I know I need a new split pin!) Take care that the sharper S does not foul the link to the accelerator arm though or you risk jamming the throttle on full... which ain't good. The above might sound complex but it makes sense when you're playing around with your carb. |
Mar 16th, 2015, 00:06 | #19 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 20:32
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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The choke seems to work pretty well but I really haven't played with the fast idle linkage.
I do have a question about the preheater hose though. Not that many cars I've seen have had it connected. Do you think it's a worthwhile project? Extreme winter aside, is it advantageous? |
Mar 16th, 2015, 00:48 | #20 | |
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Quote:
--"These thing run horribly with no heating as I initially discussed. Even in summer you want to run heating. Smokey Yunick figured this out long ago. The idea of heat killing hp is kind of useless if fuel drops out of suspension. What is found- when you check internal temp on the dyno is even with heating due to- heat of evaporation with gasoline, you would see temp of about freezing. Unatomized fuel = knocking and poor power. If you ran it on a race track you could get away with no heat as you'd be at full throttle 65% of the time instead of 2%- but even then it would be an interesting project to r&d how much heat could work. In short- you won't like driving it with no heat."
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1959 Volvo Amazon. Chassis #17048 |
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