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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Dec 13th, 2015, 09:40 | #11 | |
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Last Online: Dec 14th, 2023 11:57
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: fareham
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i took the decision to go forged Pistons from Ross and they only had +30". However I recently thought I had an issue and pulled the engine to check. On strip down everything was in excellent order and the Pistons had no sign of detonation ( they are ceramic coated as well) so I'm confident all the bits are working comfortably together Did you go for the 123Tune model and if so what curve are you starting with? With the side drafts it's so difficult to hear detonation and I have a fear of running too advanced. I'm thinking of investing in some type of detonation device( or headphones) anyone have any recommendations? I fitted a Mellings pump on advice from Phil Singher. They don't have an outlet in the UK but they do have a representative. I contacted him and he obtained a pump for me. Much higher quality, nice and chunky. I have a feeling it may be the HD version on the SKANDIX site. I think I've seen your car at Goodwood as I have exactly the same pic in my files that I took when I was down there for the breakfast meeting! Nice car Russ |
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Dec 13th, 2015, 09:48 | #12 |
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Last Online: Dec 14th, 2023 11:57
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Yes I am Mitch. Appears this is a common issue with the big yank cars. Go on eBay or look on Summit/Jegs and there are loads of options.
I was looking at a aftermarket tank and there are a number of options, alloy, chromed or black. All under £100 delivered. I didn't want to commit without understanding if it could be resolved. It can ( in my case) with the reservoir. Most of the comments regarding pumps is that they are noisy and unreliable. Loads of pumps on eBay but most are engine driven I reckon your KG6 or the KG10 will be fine with a reservoir This is the part I used (181930829101) and I made him an offer of a tenner as I'm a tight fisted bar steward😄 Russ |
Dec 13th, 2015, 09:50 | #13 |
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Last Online: May 8th, 2019 07:02
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Location: Steyning
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I'll see if I can get hold of more of the figures. They are all on my pals computer. I'm using KD needles.
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Dec 13th, 2015, 09:51 | #14 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 8th, 2019 07:02
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Steyning
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It's probably going to be a month or two until it's all fitted in the car due to time commitments but will certainly going to a RR near me to make sure it's set up as well as it can be
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Dec 13th, 2015, 09:52 | #15 | |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Today 05:48
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Location: Aberdeen
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Dec 13th, 2015, 09:57 | #16 |
1800necwinner
Last Online: Today 08:39
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: East Anglia ,Suffolk , uk
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Hi all
Just to add my pennies worth one of my old school engine rebuilders use to back in the day and still swears by it , apparently there is one floor to these engines when WORKING on them in this fashion is they overheat internally and to get round this issue is delete the water pump and fit a MGB water pump direct into the engine as it has a better flow rate and he reckons it helps out a lot and these engines can go faster longer with ease and that person has been doing these engines since the 70s I myself have no experience in this field so can only go on what he says . Hope it makes sense and can be of some use to anyone Kind regards Robert.w
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I grew up on classic volvos hence my passion for them born and breed into the lifestyle ! Last edited by 123GT-AMAZON; Dec 13th, 2015 at 10:03. |
Dec 13th, 2015, 09:58 | #17 | |
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This should be under 0.035" and I didn't mention it as amazonjulian is at the assembly stage. It would need decking as work on the head doesn't really affect quench. My car ended up with >12:1 CR and I get no det even after a hot run labouring up a hill( which suggests I can advance further). On a separate matter what head gasket are you using? I have several Elring HG at 0.8mm thick, helps your quench calcs. I ordered too many and have one spare (£25) Russ |
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Dec 13th, 2015, 10:07 | #18 | |
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Rather than fit a mgb direct to head (and issues with belt alignment) I would go electrical with the advantage you can add a timer so the water keeps circulating after a hot run. Parasitic losses, sealing issues and poor design all eliminated in one. I haven't as my temperature stays on track all the time, oil temp barely gets to 80deg. If you do select a pump try and select a cast impeller rather than the cheap pressed steel ones. You will definitely get cavitation with those and cavitation is bad as it aerates the water and reduces cooling where an air bubble forms the interface. Russ |
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Dec 13th, 2015, 10:15 | #19 | |
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Last Online: Dec 14th, 2023 11:57
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Rig up a vacuum gauge and measure you vacuum. If you have SUs you can t into this. You need a gauge full swing to at least 25"HG. I have one you can borrow? Then get a cheap tank and this valve (191551792377) and plumb the vac gauge between the servo and this new valve. If you go my (cheapass) route it's fairly unobtrusive. Alternatively this looks shinier(😄 231213110465 Russ |
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Dec 13th, 2015, 10:20 | #20 | |
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I have a 'relatively' good relationship with these (http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/dyno.htm), if we can get a few more we can get trade rates. Or do you have a better recommendation? Russ |
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