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Possible cause of DPF Issues with High Oil Consumption.

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Old Dec 4th, 2017, 10:02   #11
skyship007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alen View Post
Hi , I'd be interested to hear the outcome too becuse having the same problem with my xc90.
Nickthecook, anything new?

My turbo was rebuild 3 months ago, and than a nightmare with oil consumption started.
Could a rebuild turbo make so much pressure that the car that was consuming 1l oil every 1800km before rebuild starts consuming 1l/200km.
The car had plenty of power before rebuild, did not smoke, and after rebuild no increase of power.

What about "low friction" oil rings introduced in 2007? Could they be the problem?
Sounds like they fitted a turbo that had bad non Garrett or Ford oil seals. They cause big oil leaks if you have a big right boot.

Low friction rings press on the cylinder walls slightly harder and were introduced to reduce oil consumption when thin 30 grades are used in a diesel, or 20 grades in a petrol job. They are only low friction when used with a high Moly (Mo) full synthetic engine oil, so it's a rather odd description, although they are made using metal coatings that reduce the friction slightly. They don't last as long as older low tension ring if they are German or US OEM standard.

If you can't get a new OEM standard turbo fitted, try the following:

1/ Use a major brand full synthic 0 or 5w40 and half a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec every OCI.
2/ Avoid using a big right boot too often.
3/ Make sure the thermostat is working.
4/ Check the crank vent system is working.
5/ When you change the fuel filter, fill up the housing with Liqui Moly Diesel Purge.
6/ When you change the oil & filter, try using a can of major brand oil flush additive that is designed for use at idle (Castrol classic, Liqui Moly or Amsoil all make safe ones) for 10 or 15 mins just before the oil is drained.
Using a flush might result in a temporary increase in leak or even oil burn rates due to the false oil seal effect, but it's only temporary as the new oil will sell up the oil seals and gaskets.
Make sure you use a real Volvo or German certified OEM standard oil filter (Mann etc), as the far Eastern jobs can use bad relief valves that result in very high oil pressures during cold starts.
7/ If all else fails, move up to Mobil 10w60 EL (The high mileage, not the race version) and change it every 5000 miles max.

Did the garage fit a new oil feed pipe when the turbo was changed ??
They often block up with varnish and that will fry the turbo oil seals very quickly!
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Last edited by skyship007; Dec 4th, 2017 at 10:22.
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Old Dec 4th, 2017, 19:58   #12
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Originally Posted by skyship007 View Post

Did the garage fit a new oil feed pipe when the turbo was changed ??
They often block up with varnish and that will fry the turbo oil seals very quickly!
Thanks for answering.
They did changed it , at least they billed it.
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Old Dec 20th, 2017, 00:21   #13
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eventually got the car nearly finished, had some issues with injectors coming loose but now fixed, also changed the valve on the oil separator, fuel consumption gradually improving but I have oil spraying onto the top of the engine and I cannot find the source, (not enought time in the days) but definitely the car is back to having power took it for a motorway run and the only indication that it was going up a hill at around 130kms was the increase in fuel consumpion.

.

Also has not clogged up the DPF yet, which it did in the few miles I drove after doing the rings but prior to changing the valve.... so my advice to anyone with oil consumption or dpf issues is to replace part no. 8642424

Now brake pressure sensors showing faults AARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH (I have two on my donor car so perhaps not too bad....)
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Old Dec 20th, 2017, 09:24   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osullivant View Post
to replace part no. 8642424
...which is a "Valve, Crankcase breather" (for those who do not know the Volvo parts catalogue off by heart)
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Old Jul 1st, 2018, 12:53   #15
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Originally Posted by Nickthecook View Post
Many have either sold or scrapped their Euro4 D5 after hitting a dead end in trying to resolve this problem. Firstly, if you're using the recommended 0w-30 A5/B5 and you're burning oil, theres a good chance your CAT is poisoned with Phosphors. This engine oil is not CAT and DPF friendly. But frst we need to understand why the Engine is consuming so much oil. I've read 100's of posts on various sites about D5 DPF's getting repeatedly blocked and the oil consumption as a result of almost continuous regenerations. Regenerations that never actually seem to clear the DPF. Many believe, because they've been told, that the oil burning is as a result of engine damage from bore wash. Bore wash can occur when a regeneration is interupted and diesel left in the cylinders can wash down the side of the pistons into the sump. They hypothesize that this causes wear and that gases are now blowing by the pistons, creating excessive crankcase pressure that forces oil through the breather into the induction system. This oil produces high levels of ash, due to the level of SAPS contained in it. Odd how every bit if information out there regarding OIL, CATs and DPF's, states that only a C grade should be used, as other grades will irreversibly damage the Catalyst and block the DPF and reduce it's lifespan. Ash can't be burned off like soot, it can only be physically cleared out. I agree in part with this, in that it is excessive crank case pressure that is responsible for the oil consumption. I don't however think it's being caused from blow by, at least not in all cases. After all, blow by isn't selective about when it choses to happen. This high oil consumption only occurs during regenerations and increases inline with the frequency of them. So what's different about a regeneration that could cause excessive crank case pressure? On the D5's fitted with the M66 box, is an EGR Cooler Bypass Valve. This valve is only in operation during engine warm up and Active Regenerations. It's purpose is to allow uncooled EGR gases back into the system to reduce engine warm up times and to help lift the exhaust gas temperatures during a regen. This valve is electronically controlled, but is physically opened by a Vacuum Actuator. (Volvo calls it a Vacuum Box) If this actuator is leaking badly and the valve fails to open, a) more soot produced as a result of slower engine warm up. b) an integral part of the regeneration process won't be working and as a result regeneration gases won't get as hot. c.) You won't get any warning or code as the actuator isn't monitored by the ECM. d) This is the bit that I 'THINK' is causing the oil problem. The Vacuum pump is going flat out trying to pull a Vacuum on the leaking actuator and the Vacuum pump vents Into the top of the Engine to be fed through the breather system. I've searched many diesel forums and discovered that Vacuum Pumps that vent this way can lift crank case pressures sufficiently for the car to start burning oil. One guys exhaust stopped smoking within a minute or so of him clamping a leaking vacuum hose. When I replaced the lifters on mine, the metal breather pipe that runs over the top of the rocker cover, was full of oil. My D5 has covered 226k, it ticks over 1rpm or 2 rpm either side of 700rpm. It certainly isnt lacking any power and at idle there is absolutely no sign that I have blow by or excess gas/pressure. When the engine is cold or in regeneration, there is however the tell tale glug,glug,glug noise from the oil filler. A sure sign of a vacuum leak. Some of you may have noticed this noise when you've had a leaking engine mount. Imagine it at 2,200rpm with the oil filler cap on. I may be barking up the wrong tree, but there doesn't seem to be any inbetween. There's Euro4's that don't use a drop of oil and those that drink it by the bucket. I'm going to clamp off the line to the EGR Cooler Bypass valve and monitor the oil consumption. I'm also going to look into whether the engine could run on a C grade oil, with more frequent changes. If you're currently having similar problems with a Euro4, or have experienced them in the past, I'd love to hear your comments. I know it seems like a long shot, but logically it is possible. I will certainly know either way within a couple of weeks.
Hi¡
I have the same problem with oil burning. My car its a xc90 with M66 transmission. your theory is very interesting.Could you check it?
Thanks very much
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Old Jul 26th, 2018, 00:36   #16
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Just to update.

Since I did the PCV (preceeded by the rings and new turbo) and followed by the liqui molly DPF clean, I have covered thousands of miles both inner city driving and many trips to the beach 20 miles or so together with a dozen or so trips of over 300mls per day.

Many of my trips involved drawing a heavy trailer (2.5t)

I have not used a drop of oil, not had a fault light connected to the engine.

Having considered things at length I think the pcv was the issue, or at least a major part, one of the issues that I was not able to understand was the presence of unburnt oil in the DPF, but I think I know the cause.

I think the PCV valve goes faulty so that the spigot to which it connects via the pipe over the top of the engine, being too near the turbo, creates a vacuum, drawing oil filled air up out of the sump through the PCV pipe/ casing, this is then fired into the cylinders and burned, but dependant on the demands of the engine the D5 does not always inject fuel on every stroke on each injector, so that at times the oil filled air simply passes through chambers and onwards into the DPF.

Bottom line is that doing the rings is a relatively easy job and much easier and cheaper than a new turbo,

I really would like to know what improvement a new pcv valve would make on its own.
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Old Jul 26th, 2018, 07:52   #17
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After following your woes prior to me getting my 07 XC90, changing the PCV almost as soon as I got the car seemed a sensible, cheap precaution.

Touch wood, so far no issues with this engine but I certainly feel that you came to the correct conclusion and are now seeing the rewards with your car.
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Old Aug 14th, 2018, 14:29   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osullivant View Post
Just to update.



Bottom line is that doing the rings is a relatively easy job and much easier and cheaper than a new turbo,

I really would like to know what improvement a new pcv valve would make on its own.
how much did changing your rings cost? I would have thought that's a lot more than a turbo?

I have replaced the PCV valve on mine and it has made no difference.

do you think your new rings took a period of time to bed in before the oil consumption reduced?
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 23:39   #19
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how much did changing your rings cost? I would have thought that's a lot more than a turbo?

I have replaced the PCV valve on mine and it has made no difference.

do you think your new rings took a period of time to bed in before the oil consumption reduced?
I think about €600 euros....

Head Gasket and bolts,

5 sets of rings, etc all bough on line, I also had the head skimmed and replaced the valve stem seals...
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 23:51   #20
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really took no running in, honed the cylinders first, some say drive it hard others say drive it easy, because it continued to guzzel oil on my first trip I had no choice but to drive it hard to make it go,,,

the next trip was with a new pcv and a new resonator box with the DPF cleaned.

Not a drop of oil used since...
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dpf filter, euro 4 d5, oil burning, regeneration, vacuum actuator


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