V70 lower splash guard

[BlueRubber]

My car doesn't have the lower splash guard ( where the sump is ).

A lot of P2 cars don't seem to have this fitted, should I try and find one in a scrap yard or is it unnecessary?

[oragex]

it is a large plate, hard to find at the breakers. I was lucky to find one. Most mechanics will discard it because unfortunately it didn't had a hole for the oil filter, so it has to be removed every time. Volvo sells the 7 bolts special for this splash guard skid plate. The two rear brackets will break often times

I prefer having it for these reasons: in winter it protects the belts from freezing water/ice. It protects the metal power steering lines which are prone to rusting on 2001-2004. It protects the underneath from any road debris.

[juanpen]

I do have it, has its advantages and disadvantages, the engine stays cleaner, but also hotter...

When I lost a pair of the original bolts put an standard 13 mm with washer

[R-P]

I was told the original V70 one won't fit my V70 AWD, so never took the plunge (and have been driving without one for about a decade). Although I expect I should be able to make it fit by simply cutting whatever area poses a fitment problem...

Given a table I saw once about airresistance, where 30% (!!!) supposedly was created in the enginebay, I do still want one as it could potentially lower my fuelconsumption by up to 10% (wild guess).

[BlueRubber]

Originally Posted by R-P

Given a table I saw once about airresistance, where 30% (!!!) supposedly was created in the enginebay, I do still want one as it could potentially lower my fuelconsumption by up to 10% (wild guess).

That is quite surprising if true, I was only thinking to fit it to prevent corrosion.

Found a pattern part here that looks promising:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNDERTRAY...oAAOSwpYxcEOF5

Thanks for the informational all.

[petey]

The major reason for it is to assist in controlling drive by noise.
Additionally, the cooling for various components will be modelled on a total air management system whereby flow is directed to the parts that need it.



(Funnily enough, this morning I had to attach a trickle type battery charger to a brand new BMW X2 and it was quite impossible to get the cable inside the battery compartment without simply dragging it across the bodywork (I always prefer to route it through an opening so it look more invisible and won’t get caught on careless feet.). There was literally no openings anywhere apart from near the OS driveshaft and that’s right in front of the crank pulley. Every single hole was covered by by ducting. Even the bloody grille was blanked off by active cooling control....)

[Clan]

Originally Posted by BlueRubber

That is quite surprising if true, I was only thinking to fit it to prevent corrosion.

Found a pattern part here that looks promising:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNDERTRAY...oAAOSwpYxcEOF5

Thanks for the informational all.

well when they first started fitting these to the last of the Volvo 140 in 1974 the lack of undertray reduced the top speed of the car from 106 mph to 98 mph work that one out :-) bolts are about 15 mm long M8 thread , best use stainless steel ones ...

[jim jordan]

i got this for my 2002 xc70 auto fits perfect and cheap too
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-S80...53.m2749.l2649

[R-P]

Originally Posted by R-P

I was told the original V70 one won't fit my V70 AWD, so never took the plunge (and have been driving without one for about a decade). Although I expect I should be able to make it fit by simply cutting whatever area poses a fitment problem...

Given a table I saw once about airresistance, where 30% (!!!) supposedly was created in the enginebay, I do still want one as it could potentially lower my fuelconsumption by up to 10% (wild guess).

I fitted one last week, drove the motorway today for the first time. Engine sounds more raw, definitively not quieter. Will report back on economy after 500km trip next week (Corona permitting). So far no 30% increase in fuel economy but hard to base that on a 40km trip.

Had to bend the attachment tabs straight and used 20mm M8 stainless steel bolts, they didn't have shorter ones at my local hardwarestore (with matching large SS rings of 24mm diameter). But you could probably fit 40mm bolts in most positions as long as e.g. the hose between the turbo and the intercooler doesn't get in the way. My enginesupportframe has some serious damage (still trustworthy, but a serious dent in it), not sure if I did this myself (doubt it), the police (former owner) caused it or I got stiffed when the engine was replaced and they gave me the worst supportframe between the old and the swap-frame.

As for fitment: it does touch the underside of the engine (might be a part of the gearbox linkage to the Haldex coupling, so indeed AWD related), so I might look into that, but it bends far enough so that I could tighten all bolts properly.

[R-P]

Just finished the 500+ km roundtrip. Mostly 100km/h, a little 110km/h and a few roadworks with 90km/h. Some 30km innercity.

Average 6,3l/100km (44.8mpg) according to the dashboard. Compare with some data from here (link to data used for the mpg in my sig), suggests two things:
- 8 out of 10 times my dashboard meter is too optimistic.
- despite the optimism from the dash, it might use a little less diesel but just 500km with it is too early to tell for sure. But well under 7l/100km is not bad given my average of 7.8l/100km. Maybe seeing if I easily get 1000km on this tank would be a better test. Normally I do this with clenched buttocks.

I hate the sound. There's a definitive vibration at motorway speeds as if it is a Subaru with a 4" muffler. It is kind of a hoarse sound, if that makes sense. I added some oil to rule out it was running low and that was causing the extra noise. I should remove it to make sure it IS the splash-guard/enginetray causing this.