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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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xc70 Buyer's GuideViews : 8719 Replies : 22Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 26th, 2011, 23:29 | #1 |
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xc70 Buyer's Guide
I'm considering having an XC70 next and I have some questions
Am I right in remembering that there's something to do with the drive-train and/or gearbox that can be a bit of a nightmare? What do I need to look out for? Anyone know how much the tax disc for a 2.5T Auto is nowadays?
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Jul 27th, 2011, 22:41 | #2 |
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I spoke to my mate who owned a 2.5T auto and he told me a problem to do with the auto box clonking. He told me he drove 3 with clonking auto boxes before he bought the 4th one which had just been fitted witha fully rebuilt box
Anyoneable to advise??
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Jul 28th, 2011, 19:10 | #3 |
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There certainly is a problem with poor changes affecting the AW gearbox. You find any number of posts on this site and others - most prolific on the XC70 US site - I guess they have a lot more cars than us so more chance of problems.
As for the drive train, I don't have 4WD but I understand there is a problem with, I think, the spine shaft sleeve which has affected quite a lot of the XC90 boys and renders the drive to the rear wheels useless. Costs a load to fix by all accounts. |
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Jul 29th, 2011, 08:50 | #4 |
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Trouble is with any motoring forum like this, is that if you read them you would never, ever buy ANY car, as they all seem to have fatal & hugely expensive problems!
Bit like going to the local Doctors surgery and concluding that all human beings are badly built, unreliable and prone to the most horrific things. Some are worse than others no doubt, but Volvo's on the whole seem to be tough old tanks and if they have been looked after properly will go on for ever, almost. However, for what it is worth, here is what I have learned buying my XC70: If the rear is sagging, look at the shocks. If they are big with a rubber boot at the top they are self leveling Nivomats & will cost £700 for a pair, then they need fitting. It unbalances the car if they are worn, and is a bit unerving. I am replacing my springs as well, as I suspect it has been running around with worn Nivomats for a while. I tow so this is important to me. Wheel bearings hum when they need replacing, and they are a bit of a weak point at the front evidently. Brake discs may need replacing. Mine has been driven very gently all it life and the discs are corroding (can't win sometimes!). Suspension bushes wear of course, meaning that the car may pull one side when accelerating, and swerve the other way on braking. My door cards are coming apart, and I am having to strip the doors & re-glue them. Not too much of a problem but it suddenly makes the car feel much better inside, much less rattles. Air con condenser is expensive too, as my car history shows the previous owner had it replaced last year. Hope that helps, if I think of anything else I'll let you know. |
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Jul 29th, 2011, 11:15 | #5 |
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"Anyone know how much the tax disc for a 2.5T Auto is nowadays? "
Depends if it was registered before 23 March 2006. http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring...cle/DG_4022118 |
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Jul 29th, 2011, 11:22 | #6 |
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Thanks everyone!
Actually, that's reassuring because it doesn't seem like there are many issues that are any different from a "normal" V70 Other than the rear end sagging, how do you know if the Nivomats have expired?
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Jul 29th, 2011, 12:31 | #7 |
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You will know by the leaks, whihc is an MOT failure, or just a saggy rear end. As I understand it, the Nivomats also provide support for the deliberately weak springs. So if the Nivomats are shot, the back sits low. Looks as though you have a boot full of heavy stuff.
It also drives like a boat as the back end bounces too much. |
Jul 29th, 2011, 16:47 | #8 |
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Pre 2003 have a viscous coupling in the drive system - avoid at all costs.
2003 -2005 have "stage 1" Haldex, 2005 -2007 have "stage 2" Haldex which is a bit better than stage 1 and both are far superior to viscous. The auto box is no different to a V70/S60 'box. There is just a bit added to give AWD AFAIK. Get any auto box flushed and change the oil regularly thereafter. The body is a V70 with a few tweaks here and there to the trim. Tyres have a bigger sidewall ratio to give increased ground clearance and the suspension is jacked up a bit as well. Change your tyres in 2s at least, preferably all 4 at a time to avoid transmission issues. Nivomats are cheap Try buying a shocker for a 4C equipped car - about £800 a corner + fitting ! Any reason you're looking for a petrol? the D5 is a great engine for this car.
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Jul 29th, 2011, 20:40 | #9 |
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Thank you so much for your reply.
In fact, I spent a few minutes doing a few searches on this forums, and your similar comments have cropped up may a time! To be honest, you've answered my question as my budget allows me only an early version petrol. I would love to stretch to a D5, but can't right now. There's a really nice Ocean Race version 2 roads down from me and it's manual,but it'll be a viscous version as it's a 51-plate. It's not for sale, but I like it and it had got my little mind thinking about what to do when I sell my current V70 For the same money, I can get a D5 V70. It's just I fancied an XC for something different. All said, there was a 54-reg manual petrol on ebay which sold very quickly on a "buy it now" Ebay this week. Perhaps I'll keep looking....
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Jul 30th, 2011, 22:04 | #10 |
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TBH, if you don't need an XC, then the V70 is a better bet for road use.
It handles better, it gets better mpg, tyres are cheaper. A petrol XC70 will be lucky to hit low 30's mpg if you drive like a nun, a V70 is going to cheaper to run even with the same engine. A D5 will make you smile while your driving and when you fill up...... Having said all that, you'll have to pry the keys to mine out of my cold, dead hands
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