2000 V70 2.5tdi d5252t cut out, won't restart

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

Ok, despite what everyone says you can time these without the fancy equipment (at least well enough to get them to run)

There is a line on the flywheel which lines up to an arrow in the bellhousing, its at the bottom of the box towards the front of the car. When this is lined, that TDC.

Now go too your pump, you will find a mark on the pump which will line up to a mark on the housing. slacken the cam pulley enough to allow the pulley to turn independently from the engine, check the flywheel timing again.

Now bring the timing marks on the pump together, then turn the pulley anticlockwise 1 tooth. (Been a while since I done one, this could be clockwise!)

This should bring the timing near enough that it will start. If you can be accurate enough, this will have the timing damn near perfect.

Good luck!

[Volvo V70 diesel]

Wow...

I hope he will be accurate, sincerely.

VV 70...

[martin_r_smith]

Originally Posted by shezza250

I'm not sure I totally understand the part about loosening the cam pulley. Any chance you could elaborate pls martin?
Cheers all

The cam pulley is on a tapered thread meaning the nut can be cracked loose and the pulley moved independently from the camshaft. Moving the pulley anticlockwise with advance the timing, clockwise will retard it.

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

Originally Posted by Volvo V70 diesel

Wow...

I hope he will be accurate, sincerely.

VV 70...

I've done 3 like this in the past couple of years and I've always been near the tolerance

[petrohl34d]

Yep, these engines/pumps can definitely be manually timed by hand like this.

It won't run at 100% efficiency, but it will start and run, and drive.

As has been mentioned already, you will then need to get the car dynamically timed by using VOL FCR, or Vida software.

[Martin Cox]

I'd also agree that you are most likely 180 degrees out. it's easily done. Your method for determining TDC is correct but there's a 50/50 chance it's the correct TDC!

One way to identify when No 1 cylinder is at TDC at the top of the compression stroke is to look at the camshaft position. The cam lobes for no 1 cylinder should be facing up rather than down so both valves are closed.

Hopefully the photo will show what I mean. The pair of cams for No 1 cylinder are at the left hand side of the picture. The engine was virtually at TDC but not exactly when the picture was taken. It should give you an idea though.

Another way is to remove the pulley from the camshaft driving the the injector pump a and at the correct TDC the slot in the end of the camshaft should be parallel to the top of the cylinder head and above the centreline of the camshaft.

On my engine, this pulley does not have a tapered fit but is flat against the end of the camshaft. The pulley with the tapered fitting is at the other end of the shaft, i.e. the one driven by the timing belt and you don't need to touch that.

It's also worth trying to establish why the tensioner worked loose in the first place if possible.

Hope this is of some help

Martin

1998 V70 Tdi Auto 222722 miles
2008 V70 2.4D Auto 99455 miles

[PNuT]

Originally Posted by Martin Cox

One way to identify when No 1 cylinder is at TDC at the top of the compression stroke is to look at the camshaft position. The cam lobes for no 1 cylinder should be facing up rather than down so both valves are closed.

It is better to just remove the pump timing pulley & look at the grove at the end of the cam shaft, if in the correct place it should line up so a too can be inserted like this

If the cam shaft is in the wrong place it is fairly obvious & you dont actually need the tool as the grove is offset quite a lot

[shezza250]

Hi all

Thanks for your help with this. I lined the marks on the flywheel and pump up as advised with no luck so disconnected the pump belt with the pump locked in place using the special bolt. I then turned the flywheel another 360 degrees to get to TDC and reconnected the belt to the pump pulley. Released the locking bolt and still wouldn't start but sounded better and more like it wanted to start. I then locked the pump pulley again, disconnected the belt and released the locking bolt slowly & carefully so I could turn the pump pulley 1 tooth anti clockwise. Then retightened the locking bolt, connected belt and loosened locking bolt, putting the shim back. She now starts!
Thanks so much all
The economy is down a bit to 35mpg from 42 and the eml keeps coming on intermittently but other than that she's just done 500 miles this weekend without breaking down. Just need to get the pump timed properly now but will probably renew the belt before that. Does anyone know which belt it is or how long it should be new?

Cheers

[Volvo V70 diesel]

Applause ! applause ! Shezza 125 X 2 !

Wonderful new !, once, time to time, is not too much !

Congratulations !



VV 70

[Martin Cox]

Congratulations on getting it going again. Well done!

Obviously it will need timing dynamically to get it running at it's best, but if you're going to replace the belt(s) soon, you may as well leave getting this done until after the belts have been sorted.

I recently replaced all the belts, tensioners and idlers after a cambelt disaster on my V70 Tdi and I opted to use genuine Volvo parts to do it.

Here are the part numbers and priced charged by my local dealer. Bear in mind these prices are ex VAT and before the Volvo Owners Club discount was applied. They are also about 6 months old now.

30758271 £74.00 Timing belt kit (Includes belt and tensioner)
9202398 £35.60 Injection pump belt
9207927 £55.00 Injection pump belt tensioner
9180594 £41.40 Injection pump belt idler roller

I dare say you can get alternatives more cheaply but given the work I had to do to get it going again it didn't seem worth skimping on these critical parts.

Hope this is of some help

Martin