"Clonk" still there after replacing enginemounts

[mermade]

Have a look at this diagram here, number two on it, the front wishbone rear bush, they're known for wear:
https://powerflexstore.co.uk/volvo/v70-2008-2016/

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by R-P

I'm considering simply changing both the drive shafts. Problem is that I don't know that is my issue...

I replaced a gator that I (not actually me, but someone helping me...) poked a hole in. Volvo gator was >60 euro, some other brand was 35 or so and closer by, but was lousy. (Leaked the grease several times before I finally managed to clamp it closed well enough, not knowing how much grease there is still in it...)

So two gators would be at least 100 euro. A complete drive shaft is 130euro!!!!!

Which is why it makes sense to replace the drive shafts...not only do you get manufacturer sealed CV joints with no mess, grease leaks & etc. you get perfectly aligned splines at both ends & new drive shaft bolts usually thrown in - I did this a couple of months ago - the V70 is transformed...all clonks gone with no other odd noises from the front end, but before you consider changing the driveshafts, please check the drop links - they are the most common cause of clunks from the front suspension as are loose axle bolts.

[R-P]

Driving on a bad road I heard it clonk lots of times, so that doesn't vote for the drive shafts, more something suspension related (or any part that gets loaded/unloaded by chassis movement). Anyone know if there is a difference between V70 FWD, V70 AWD and XC70 in front drive shafts? My VIDA is broken and haven't found the time to e.g. install the 2050 patch (well I did , but it doesn't seem to work on my 2012(iirc) VIDA)

I have never actually looked for "3" in that pic. No clue if that can 'clonk'

And @ mermade: you mean these, right? Swapped the entire controlarms a few years back, but this is a recent pic.


I'll be putting on my 4 seasons instead of my summer tires tomorrow, and have another poke/look.

[bkulcsar]

You should (try to) check the ball joints (somehow).
I ended up replacing them (with Lemförder ones) and the clonks were gone (after replacing half the car - in vain ). Also worth checking the subframe bushes (somehow).

[gramsey438]

I would second the drop link suggestion. I have had to replace both front and rear o/s droplinks on my S60 since owning it. The smallest amount of play in these can really cause a horrible knocking noise when inside the car. Easy job and not expensive.

[R-P]

Ball joints and droplinks ordered. I might as well become a dealer, not actually finding the fault but just randomly changing parts until the fault disappears and have the customer pay for all parts.

Only problem is that I am also the customer...

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by R-P

Ball joints and droplinks ordered. I might as well become a dealer, not actually finding the fault but just randomly changing parts until the fault disappears and have the customer pay for all parts.

Only problem is that I am also the customer...

It sometimes makes sense to get a mechanic/trusted garage to diagnose the problem or even get it "pre-MOTd" to find the fault and then correct it by your own "spannering".

[AndyV7o]

Originally Posted by ASt85

It sometimes makes sense to get a mechanic/trusted garage to diagnose the problem or even get it "pre-MOTd" to find the fault and then correct it by your own "spannering".

Not always 😁 took my wifes car for mot last week, when maneuvering at low speeds the n/s wheel tramps, and over bumps the front end knocks & rattles. Havent had time or facility/weather to go through it. I told him (trusted guy, garage I used to work at many moons ago) I knew it was a fail, just need to know what. He asked what problems I was referring to, I said whats up. Once he came up out of the pit I said 'Go on then, what we got?' His reply was 'Nowt pal! Ive been through everything, cant find a thing wrong wi it!' So unexpectedly I came away with a pass.
(Clearly there is something, but nothing that presents itself for an mot inspection. I could clearly see the trackrod ends were tight etc. My money is on drop links, and a soft but not separating/torn rear bottom arm bush, but anyway, I digress!)

[pitavolvo]

try anti ping bolts

[R-P]

You mean the (XC90) drive-shaft bolts?

I put the torque wrench at 50Nm and torqued the front-wheel-drive-shaft-bolts, but they all didn't move before the wrench clicked, hence me hoping they weren't to blaim. I also often hear this described as 'pinging'. It's obviously hard to describe a sound, even hadrer when it is not your native language, but I wouldn't describe my problem as a 'ping'.

BTW, my Volvo got MOT'd 2 weeks back (and passed without any warnings/advicements), when I hadn't even replaced the engine supports, so it shouldn't/couldn't be the ball joints as they are an APK (=Dutch MOT) issue iirc.

Also ordered Lemförder controlarm bushings (3x more expensive than the cheapest versions but I think Lemförder is often OEM so seemed like a safe bet), so I will press those into the old control arms. Hope this will work out and the press my mate has will do the job.