Shock replacement - a visual comparison

[RM955I]

As the rear shocks are relatively easy to replace, I decided to change the rears first just to see how they were doing.

The car is a 2010 D5 with 116k on it and it feels typically wallowy - riding on the springs with little compression and rebound...I was right.

Sorry about the cr*p iPhone camera work but I think it illustrates the point. The first video is the original shock, me pressing down one handed as hard as I can; the 2nd shock is a new Bilstein B4; the 2nd video shows the rebound - the new shock has already extended before I can pick up the camera!
https://youtu.be/SWabKmw-dY8

https://youtu.be/gn-db8ccFKw

I was a bit worried at first as the Bilstein looks to be about 15mm shorter! I have checked the part number on their website and it is deffo the right one.

I couldn't have done it without my Clarke impact wrench and a fair bit of Plus Gas so don't expect to just stick a socket on the main bolt and it be a breeze!

Getting the top nut off to release the mount was OK on one, impossible on the other...so eventually I took an angle grinder to the old shock and cut away until I could get the damper rod exposed and in a vice: messy but effective.

It seemed rude not to also paint the calipers and hubs whilst it was all apart so not a bad afternoons work.

Fronts are next.

[tommyweaves]

I have a MY2011 D3 with nearly 100k on the clock, seems a a bit wallowy these days; how did your new rear shock absorbers change the handling?

[I-S]

I've been considering for some time what to do with ours - the rebound is completely uncontrolled. I was back and forth between the B4 and B6, so I'll be very interested to hear your views on the ride quality with the B4s.

I also have in mind that while things are apart it might make sense to throw new lower arms (£75 a piece, FEBI Bilstein with all 3 bushes pre-installed) and ARB droplinks in at the same time, and perhaps top mounts. For me this is a garage, not a DIY job.

[RM955I]

Originally Posted by tommyweaves

I have a MY2011 D3 with nearly 100k on the clock, seems a a bit wallowy these days; how did your new rear shock absorbers change the handling?

I haven't taken it out yet! Just finished putting it all back together and re-torquing the main bolt.

I think the full improvement will only come with doing the fronts - that's next month. Whichever way you look at it, I could single handed press the old shock straight down - the new shock is a different matter. As for the rebound - that's pretty obvious.

I'll let you know how I get on.

[RM955I]

On a short backroad run...

Definitely more controlled and less wallowy. The real benefit probably won't come until the front is done as well as that seems to be showing its age/mileage.

The ride quality on flat, straight roads is pretty much the same which is what I expected as old shocks are going to be softer and in some ways more compliant - fine until you hit a bump or a corner and then they become uncontrolled. New shocks won't magically transform the ride in that respect although the added rebound will stop them 'pumping down'.

I went for B4 over B6 purely on price difference. I paid £106 for the pair (which is a good price) versus about 3x that for B6.

These guys seem remarkably cheap for Bilsteins http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilstein-B...item35e5efb8d7

I was, with them selling on eBay & amazon, a bit worried about fakes but it all looks legit. http://www.tdcautomotive.com/

[I-S]

I find that it's the fronts on ours that are severely lacking - the rears seem ok (but when the car is not loaded they are obviously oversprung, underdamped - this is the nature of estate cars. Ride better with a washing machine aboard!).

However, hitting a large compression on an NSL road has the front end doing its Zebedee thing. I've always wondered if in fact the front end is somewhat underdamped on the D5 anyway, as it has stiffer springs to compensate for the weight of the engine/drivetrain (which is ~150kg heavier than eg a T4), hence my thoughts elsewhere on this forum about whether the B6 might, on the front at least, be a better choice for the D5.

It may also be a question of comparison - compared to my parents' Landcruiser it's tight and controlled. Compared to my old Honda Accord it's all over the place (but that had very poor secondary ride by comparison, despite much more composed primary ride)

[pacman67]

My 2010 V70 D5 with 75 k has in the year and a half of ownership always crashed over bumps. I've tried 17 and 18 rims and different tyre pressure,all the same. Passes the bounce test, doesn't feel planted on the road though.

[Model flyer]

Probably your front shocks are knackered. They still pass a bounce test but when removed you can feel how bad they are. I changed mine last year and it totally changed the ride to "as new". I didn't put anything fancy on just OE spec from local car factor. Change the top mounts and bearings as well as they can cause an irritating rattle/ knock as can the shockers over light bumps or slightly uneven surfaces.

[RM955I]

As said, the bounce test means nothing. It may have been OK on a 900kg Mk 2 Escort or a 750kg Austin 1300 but it's pretty meaningless on a nearly 2 ton V70 where the springs are correspondingly stiffer.

My car passed an MOT in Feb, just 3k miles ago...the rear shocks were knackered. Unless they are 'blown' and weeping, they'll pass an MOT whilst being pretty useless.

[I-S]

Any progress with the fronts? I'm saving up to embark on this process (along with new front lower arms, ARB droplinks, rear trailing arm bushes), and pondering just fronts or all 4...