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Rust on 1998 V70 TdiViews : 1532 Replies : 28Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 4th, 2019, 12:29 | #1 |
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Rust on 1998 V70 Tdi
When I went to examine the rear exhaust hanger on my 1998 V70 Tdi, I noticed a depressing amount of rust on the section to which the exhaust hanger is attached. So far as I can tell by tapping and poking, the underyling metal is still sound...at the moment. The rest of the car is perfectly sound.
Ovbiously it's only going to get worse. I should welcome opinions on what the current thinking is on how best to deal with it. I was thinking along the lines of wire brushing and grinding out as much rust as possible, applying one of the proprietry rust converters, priming, a topcoat and then an underseal/stonechip protection. If the metal is too far gone, then it will be a welding job which is beyond my abilities. Ladies and Gentlemen, your thoughts please? Many thanks Martin 1998 V70 Tdi Auto 224,000 miles 2008 V70 2.4D Auto 109,000 miles |
May 4th, 2019, 12:44 | #2 | |
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May 4th, 2019, 13:03 | #3 |
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The car was off the road for about 8 months about 2 years ago whilst I repaired the damage caused by a broken timing belt. Otherwise it's been in continuous use and the car has spent most of its time in and around Hull.
It's never been mentioned on any MoT inspection, all of which have been done by the local main Volvo dealer. |
May 4th, 2019, 16:42 | #4 |
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Hull explains it, living near the coast with all that salt.
Mine has started going on this beam but I've treated and painted it I think you might find that if you chisel the rust off you will hopefully find solid metal below. In which case you will be able to treat it with rust curer and then paint over. I would be surprised if it were rusted through, I expect the metal is pretty thick.
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Phil '98 V70 2.5T (manual '99MY) |
May 4th, 2019, 19:59 | #5 |
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I've nothing to lose by trying that approach, apart from some time.
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May 4th, 2019, 20:35 | #6 |
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I understand that this is just about the only place that this model does rust, Martin. I bought my 'V' reg in August '16. When it went for MOT testing that December, all it required was welding in the same place as yours and adjustment to the hand brake. The rest of the bodywork is very sound after almost 20 years. They wear their age exceptionally well.
Regards, John.
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May 4th, 2019, 21:04 | #7 |
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I think clan is right about really needing replacing but if it were mine. The section was still solid (chisel or hammer tapping not holing it) then I would wire brush then wax oil.
I have previously wax oiled off road vehicles to good effect. |
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May 4th, 2019, 23:01 | #8 |
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As above, except I use Dinitrol products, much more effective and modern than WaxOyl, assuming the above refers to the well-known Finnegan's product, which is pretty long in the tooth now. Shell Ensis V is even better, if you can get it.
I've treated mine with this, and it's still solid as a rock and looks to be staying that way indefinitely - which is a good thing, as I intend to keep this car for as long as I can drive.....
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May 5th, 2019, 00:04 | #9 |
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Bilt Hamber is very good. Don't use Waxoil.
The other key place to look for rust is behind the front wings, forward of the wheels. Pop the indicator light units out and have a look with a torch.
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Phil '98 V70 2.5T (manual '99MY) |
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May 5th, 2019, 19:01 | #10 |
DPF free.FCUK Greta he he
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It's hard to say for sure from pictures... but going straight to cutting out and welding is a bit ott straight off.
Clean it all up and have a good poke around and then assess your options. You will know if it's salveagable or needs welding. |
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