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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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ABS light always onViews : 1348 Replies : 25Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 29th, 2020, 09:52 | #11 | |
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I've driven mine for over a year with the ABS light showing (now fixed but a totally different problem to yours) after i reached 15mph (yes, i know i quoted about 8mph for yours and this is correct for the fault i had) and the brakes worked fine. I've alao had other cars with ABS faults and happily driven them. It's actually a bug-bear of mine that an ABS light showing is an MoT fail as the ABS is a driver aid, lack of it (or a fault showing on it) doesn't prevent the normal brakes operating normally unless there's a brake system fault. If that's the case it would be dangerous to drive anyway and the brakes would get sorted. Looking at a 1995 wiring diagram, it appears that the fuse you need to check is fuse 24 - it might be that when you remove it that it's intact and when you replace it, the fault disappears - should be a 15A blue one - give that a try and see, it might be as simple as that and is fairly quick to check!
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May 29th, 2020, 20:54 | #12 |
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If the brakes still feel normal and work efficiently I would drive it. The ABS is just an aid to braking when on a slippery surface which very quickly and repeatedly applies then releases the brakes to keep the wheels turning so that directional control may be maintained. On a normal surface ABS does not activate and the brakes operate normally.
Before ABS, if braking on a slippery surface one or more wheels would stop rotating and directional control could be lost. To maintain directional control the driver needed to rapidly apply and release the brakes. That is known as “cadence” braking. The ABS does the same thing but in a much quicker and organised fashion. My current 940 is the first car that I have owned which is equipped with ABS. During the first winter I needed to brake hard on a snowy surface when a pedestrian decided not to wait for the traffic lights to change. I immediately started to cadence brake, only to feel the ABS kick in each time I depressed the brake pedal, so after the first few depressions of the brake pedal I just kept my foot on the brakes and let the ABS do it’s thing. It worked.
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May 30th, 2020, 04:32 | #13 |
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Thanks for the replies! We are off today so will be driving it and I’ll try and work our whats what when we are down there
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Will |
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May 30th, 2020, 12:24 | #14 |
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Good luck with the move and have a safe journey!
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Jun 1st, 2020, 11:14 | #15 |
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Made it down ok! Thanks for all the replies. I’m going to try and get to the bottom of this over the next week
I have noticed that I’m having to top up the coolant after really long journeys. I thought it was air escaping after refilling the system following a flush. I did change most components in the cooling system. but I’m beginning to think it’s coolant I’m losing. The carpets are dry in the foot wells and I did a chemical test to check for exhaust gases in the coolant and it came back normal. Perhaps one of the jubilee clips isn’t tight enough and a bit is getting out. There is never any coolant under the car and it seems I only notice a drop in the level once the car has cooled down after a big drive. Waterpump isn’t leaking as far as I can see, I changed that as well. Thanks!
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Will |
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Jun 1st, 2020, 11:49 | #16 | |
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Have you had a chance to check the fuses yet?
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Jun 1st, 2020, 13:21 | #17 |
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It’s auto. I did renew the coolant expansion tank cap, but a week or so later than the rest of the coolant stuff. I’m going to look at the fuses today. Things are still a bit manic! Thanks!
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Will |
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Jun 1st, 2020, 13:52 | #18 | |
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Hopefully that's a negative result (i.e. no sign of coolant on the dipstick) but that could be where your coolant is going. If so, it needs sorting ASAP Do you know the pressure rating of your new coolant cap?
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Jun 1st, 2020, 14:15 | #19 | |
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I’ve just had a proper look again and I can see there’s clearly some coolant getting out where the heater hose goes into the lower heater matrix copper pipe. There is a wet area around where it comes out of the firewall. I have tightened up the jubilee clip a good turn and a half. There isn’t any leakage that I can tell when the car is sitting. So hopefully it just wasn’t tight enough and when the cooling system was pressurised and hot it was leaking out. The cap I bought was the green one. Which I think is 1.5 bar. I dipped the trans fluid and it was not contaminated but the car hasn’t been parked down hill overnight. Thanks
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Will Last edited by zchael6; Jun 1st, 2020 at 14:18. |
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Jun 1st, 2020, 15:51 | #20 | |
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Glad the trip went ok. Good luck with the diagnosis. Cheers Ben
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