D24TIC cambelt change

[jpliddy]

hi all
how big a job is it to change the cambelt on my 940 tic auto 1995.
a job i always wanted to do but need all the addvice i can get. i know about the belt tensioner and idler pully think they come of fairly easy . but it looks like you have to remove quite a bit down below .
all addvice is most welcome . i have the green book volvo . but it does not explain how to do this very well

[jor]

There is a write up by tfb on how to do it. Might work out to be more expensive than a garage as tools are needed; at the least a 450Nm wrench, tool 5192 which stops the idler rotating when undoing the bolt plus the timing gauge and adapter to reset the timing. It's not something I would have contemplated doing without having seen someone do it first. Might be worth asking John Davies if he could be of assistance.

jor

[jpliddy]

thanks jor

if im having the cam belt only is there no need for resetting timing .as some how everything is locked in postion . just had it done but by garage so i dont know how he did it . hes done it before fore me i just wish i knew how to do it in step by step

[ian2000t]

Not an easy job but do-able! I did it when I did the headgasket on mine, and I only had 2 special tools - the locking plate for the back of the cam, and the locking pin for the pump. Also did use a generic "cam sprocket holding" tool. Didn't have any problems replacing idler. And to undo the centre bolt on the crank I used a large pry bar in the teeth of the ring gear.

Really, they should have removed the rear cam sprocket to put the locking tool in place to ensure the cam is exactly TDC before putting the new cambelt on. In removing the rear cam sprocket, the injector pump belt will have been removed, which means when it's put back together the pump timing will need setting.

However... my mate works in a garage and confirmed to me that especially with "these older cars" they don't follow any of the proper procedures (and don't have the special locking tools). What they do is just mark up where the cam and crank were previously and install the new belt in the same place.

If they did this method, and IF they got the cam in exactly the same place as before, your cam timing, and hence pump timing will not have changed. Although, if you have ever done the pump timing yourself you will know that a tiny amount of movement of the rear sprockets makes a fairly big difference with the pump timing. It's a bloody fiddly job.

[JohnL]

You need to make sure you buy the genuine tensioner pulley, the after market ones have a plastic pulley on the outside of the bearing, where the genuine one has a much better outer pulley, I know it, mine broke up!
John

[jpliddy]

yes john i know about the idler pully with the plastic outer ring . a garage i used did not replace mine when i took the car for its next cambelt change at a diffrent garage i had the old parts back and the plastic was broke on one side so lucky me i only use genuine parts for that job but the first garage did not bother to change it lucky as i only do 5 years or 55000 between cambelt changes