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Fitting a dashcamViews : 15958 Replies : 72Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 25th, 2018, 23:15 | #1 |
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Fitting a dashcam
The only threat I could find is some months old so I thought I'd start afresh.
I want to fit a 2 channel dash cam and intend to do so myself. I have no concerns around doing this (unless you know better) apart from running the wire down the A pillar. The obvious way is to remove the trim but I'm very aware that an air bag is involved. Has anyone removed the trim and if so, how ? Also, can anyone recommend a good, currently available dash cam? Many thanks, Frank MY 17 V90 Last edited by Boatie; Feb 25th, 2018 at 23:16. Reason: spelling |
Feb 26th, 2018, 06:54 | #2 |
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The only Volvo I've done this on is my C70, but I have installed dash cams on other cars with A pillar airbags, and not once have I removed the trim.
I've found there's enough 'give' in the trim to simply tuck the cable behind the headlining across the top of the windscreen, then between the headlining and the top of the A pillar trim to bring the cable away from the w/screen, using a thin plastic spatula, or screwdriver if you're careful. Then push it behind the door seal and route as necessary down into the cabin. You might have to ease the door seal back a tad, depending on the seal's profile. HTH
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Feb 26th, 2018, 09:26 | #3 | |
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Quote:
When you cross the pillar at the top to then go down the door seal you are crossing across the deployment zone of the curtain airbag and potentially might stop it from working properly. I took off the a pillar trim (which is easy) and kept the wire to the back of the airbag routed with the other wires and pipes in there. It is not a difficult job. Pop out the little plastic rectangle of trim, undo the bolt behind and then it just clips in and out.
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Feb 26th, 2018, 09:35 | #4 | |
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Feb 26th, 2018, 09:39 | #5 |
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Is there a recommendation for a dashcam in an XC90 now then? I had read they were not recommended due to interference with various radio transmissions around windscreen area of XC90. I think specifically it mentioned not to fit near the binnacle behind rear view mirror.
I have a Nextbase dashcam and was hoping to use that in the (soon to arrive XC90) but is there a type more suitable / have Volvo now come up with a recommendation? |
Feb 26th, 2018, 10:11 | #6 |
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Afaik there's no official recommendation. Attached pic shows the safe area outside the yellow lines where the radar and camera will not be obstructed. Note that it does not imply that an electrically noisy or faulty device will be safe.
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Feb 26th, 2018, 11:03 | #7 |
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I really wish manufacturers would just offer this as a built in option. Mine has a the 360 cameras, surely these could just feed to somewhere, and store on an SD card. I think a lot of people would pay for it as an optional extra.
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Feb 27th, 2018, 11:11 | #8 |
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I have an XC90 T8 2016 and fitted a 2ch Thinkware F770. I have no issues with it it works well. Here some tips:
- You must make sure the front cam is outside the Volvo camera/radar sweep area. Look at Lexman8 diagram which shows this. I chose to fit my dash next to the radar unit on the top LHS. This makes it impossible for the driver to see and is not in any sight of vision for the passenger. - a lot of talk about the GPS and wifi signal interference with Volvo radar unit. Well, think about it, the Dashcam will only receive GPS, and your mobile is no different so it cannot interfere otherwise Volvo would have a HUGE problem. The freq is also different. - Wifi is only ON when you download or calibrate the dash so it is irrelevant and OFF when you drive thus not a point of contention. Again I doubt Wifi could interfere otherwise any Mobile or ipad would and that makes no sense when Volvo even provide Car Wifi hotspot services. - The wiring of the front cam HAS to be done correctly to avoid any entanglement with the airbag. THIS IS IMPORTANT. Look at http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...radar-detector which shows nicely the path it should take. You MUST use proper clips to ensure the wires stay put and always behind the airbag (preferably following other wiring paths). Access is easy when removing the cover (only one screw). - The rear cam I wired alongside the bottom footwell, NOT along the A and B beam as there are too many airbags. Simply tug the wires between the carpet and plastic covers. It is easy and cables stay put. Zero interference with any safety devices. Once you get behind the rear passenger seat go upward around the wheelarch (below the back window) and then finally do into the roof area at he very rear Beam (again remove cover is easy). The wires then follow the roof cover and you must tug them through the rubber ducts into the tailgate. This takes some fiddling, but when done it is waterproof, safe and neat. Tailgate covers easily pop off, just go easy and slow. - Position front dash as close to the upper window edge but leave a small gap to the RHS as you need this in order to slot the dash onto the adhesive plate. Some prefer to have the dash about 1 inch away from the upper window edge in order to access the memory card, but I think it is batter to go all the way to the edge and simply detach the cam when you need to remove the memory card which should be hardly ever. This way the install looks neater and away from obstructing vision. - Once all wires lead to the fuse box in the passenger side footwell. accessing that fusebox is a pain in the A$$, unless you are a contortist with Cirque du soleil. Anyway after some time removing the carpet you get to the box and there you hardwire using micro fuse piggybacks (ebay) which are safe and proper. make sure you connect the battery wire to the always ON fuse and the ACC to the ignition ON supply. Fuse 15 and 10 was what I used if I remember it, but double check that. You can easily test with a meter. I connecte dthe COM wire to the screw that hold the fusebox so it has proper chassis connection. Make sure wiring is neat, not cramped and solidly secured with plastic straps. Otherwise vibration will make them move, cause loose connections etc. Do take your time on this and do it properly as once you close everything you dont want to revisit the footwell again. - The F770 also has its own inline fuses so you got double safety and correct AMP ratings. The F770 also allows you to set the cutoff if the battery power goes below a set voltage. Many other dashcams do not do this! Again plastic strap the excess wires so they dont move otherwise you will hear it later. - The dashcam works well at night and records sound well, but external sound recording is poor since the Volvo is so well audio insulated. - I have used it for two months in city and motorway traffic. I use adaptive cruise control all the time and adaptive steering now and then. Never had a problem. BLIS also work without any problems. I therefore think it work without interfering with any of the Volvo bits. - Ahhh the F770 also comes with autocollision warning or lane warning of some sorts, obviously make sure when you calibrate it that you switch this off since you already have this via Volvo. - In case you ask... the answer is NO, you cannot change the voice of the F770 from american immigration officer voice to something more like adele. gotta life with that. Hope this helps and obviously the above tips are at your risk. |
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Mar 2nd, 2018, 00:45 | #9 | |
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Quote:
Contemplating doing it myself rather than having a 'professional' install it as I will take more care in doing it. Cheers Andy |
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Mar 2nd, 2018, 08:22 | #10 |
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With all of the massive forces in play during an impact as seen in the numerous YouTube videos, I cannot image any flimsily attached micro usb connection proving to be an impediment.
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