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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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1961 Volvo PV544 in Holland

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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 17:31   #381
Christerart
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I am in awe...
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Old Aug 23rd, 2018, 10:34   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christerart View Post
I am in awe...
It really isn't much more than practice and being patient.

#########

Some additional tips that I forgot to add in my last post:

1) After tack welding and when ever necessary clean the area with a wire brush (I use a small rotary thing in a cordless drill)
2) Start tacks from the new metal to the old (on the whole the new metal is more likely to be of a consistent thickness)
3) The advantage of too much filler metal in an area is that you are making your own heat sink which will help you stop making holes instead of filling them - the downside is more grinding and waste (waste in terms of materials used and time)
4) Be aware that work hardened metal is more likely to speed you towards a blown hole - so be aware of bends and complicated shapes
5) Be aware that complicated shapes in metal has usually involved stretching of metal - this means the metal there is thinner (!)

#########

One of these days I plan to buy and experiment with a variable trigger TIG gun - as I feel at times a little more control over the arc would be favourable. I do have a pedal that does this but it is only really useful for welding at a bench (and cars tend not to fit too well on benches).
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 15:36   #383
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Default Seems like nothing much is happening again...

...all a bit eat sleep rave repeat - Ground Hog Day

Anyway I hope to have figured out some good positions for the brackets for my future custom inner wheel arches that will also be fitted to the front wings.

The front wings are wider than the rear so I'm not 100% sure how these will pan out. I guess I'll be putting brackets on the inner wings / engine bay sides too.

There isn't too much room at the front of the wing because of the huge bucket to which the headlights are attached =>



(Fingers crossed I won't be padding out with stacks of washers!)

Approximate position shown by my favourite marking method - masking tape



And finally the position of the brackets - all welded into place



Note the bracket at the "top" of the wing - actually nearer to the engine bay and at the top of the arch in correct orientation - that will hold this wider custom inner arch in position.

I'm not sure exactly what I'll use for an inner wing yet - I guess it'll be aluminium just like the club solution I showed previously. It will certainly have some form of rubber trim on the edges but I might also coat in stone chip on the road side and put some sound deadening on the upper / car side to counteract all that gravel I hope to be driving sideways at speed through...
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Old Aug 25th, 2018, 15:34   #384
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Default I can't remember if I've droned on about...

...spot weld removal in this thread / on this forum before but it is one of those things that I think often gets done "wrong".

Most folks seem to be fixated with special (expensive if you buy the good ones) spot weld drill bits.

{Note these are good if you for some reason you are trying to preserve the two joined parts but nine times out of ten you'll be wanting to remove something that is rusted and knackered and hoping to try and preserve a piece of metal underneath}

So bearing the note above in mind I use a different method. I like to grind away the spot weld on the part you are going to chuck making it super thin so you can snip and pry the part away.







If you get to an end where there is only one spot weld on a length / piece of metal left then twisting the metal axially around the spot weld is a good way of removing the last bit.

You end up with little dots of old spot weld which are easy to grind back.

I think - with care - the chances of making a mess of the metal you are trying to preserve underneath are smaller using this method than with those drills

The passenger door has the least amount of damage and was coated immediately in cold galvanising spray (Zinga)



The driver's door has the most damage =>



It is now being treated with Rustyco - the fluid version - trying to encourage capillary action - letting it soak under the other door seal holding bits



######

I got the new door seal strips from VP a few days ago. I'm happy to report the edges are nicely rounded for the correct fitment of the door seals - I could have probably made my own but I really need to get a spurt on with the paint (as explained before)



(Good eh? Expensive but good!)
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1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
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Old Aug 28th, 2018, 10:30   #385
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Fitted those trim fasteners now - just the job. Wrapped 2 thicknesses of insulting tape around the heads to make them fit the trims better, and made sealing washers from bits of inner tube, then a plain washer and the nut, perfect!
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Old Aug 28th, 2018, 16:07   #386
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Fitted those trim fasteners now - just the job. Wrapped 2 thicknesses of insulting tape around the heads to make them fit the trims better, and made sealing washers from bits of inner tube, then a plain washer and the nut, perfect!
Great stuff - thanks for letting me know,

Which fasteners did you buy in the end?

(I think I might have added a bit of confusion to that thread by posting a link that was different to what was originally talked about - so I've managed to confuse myself of course!)
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Old Aug 28th, 2018, 19:21   #387
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They're the Ford Escort ones from Bresco. Part no BSF833P. The nuts are included.
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Old Aug 29th, 2018, 08:20   #388
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Quote:
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They're the Ford Escort ones from Bresco. Part no BSF833P. The nuts are included.
Great stuff
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1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
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Old Aug 29th, 2018, 14:54   #389
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Default Bit of progress

I was almost in the zone with the paint today until two disasters happened.

The first disaster was predicted by the BBC weather forecasters and the Dutch ones too so I knew it would happen - it got too humid for paint. Thunderstorms on their way from la belle France.

Still I got to play with some Car System 2K VOC filler (540 stuff) and finally got that sprayed on the front end =>



(Background info:

After the original disaster where I got a nasty paint reaction with the Ferpox and 1K spray filler I stripped it all back and redid the front end in Eastwood rust encapsulator. Some parts have had a smidge of "big" filler but mostly it has been just treated with the rust encapsulator.

The encapsulator isn't bad stuff at all - it sticks like brown stuff to a stick - but no matter what adjustments I made to the spray gun it insisted on drying with a slight textured finish.

That's why I went for the 2K spray filler so I could get a smooth to the touch finish)



This 2K filler sprayed on really nicely - the fast hardener (supplied in the kit) seemed to help. No drips or runs. No clogging - no hassle.



A fair amount of time was spent (once the filler had dried properly!) wet sanding the filler back to a smooth touch. I now need to leave it for a couple of days to make sure it dries before the next coat - even though I did wipe off / wipe down as I went.

Note the area where I found the chassis numbers - right hand side of the picture where the fuse box on a LHD car goes. This has not been treated to more than one coat of encapsulator and it most certainly has not been sprayed over with filler: I want those numbers to remain legible.

The finish I'm trying to reach is "nice" but not custom car smooth. I want to see the spot weld dimples. I want it to feel original.

(EDIT - and the second disaster - well after years of faithful service my SilverLine cheapo gravity fed (1.5mm) spray gun got stuck together with epoxy primer - nightmare that nearly cost me 15 quid I'll have you know - I've just had to replace it at a cost of nearly 23 euros - flipping heck...)
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1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!

Last edited by Army; Aug 29th, 2018 at 14:58.
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Old Aug 29th, 2018, 19:18   #390
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Default A few more pictures of progress (!)

The rear wings are now fully painted on the inside





They kind of came out OK I suppose. I'd have liked to have made them a bit smarter but once you start adding on brackets and seam sealer the finish does suffer!

#########

Here's the (dreaded) epoxy that helped me mess up my cheapo spray gun



This poly service version is a bit more creamy than the Epifanes i was using before. As usual I'll be sanding back to see if it sticks as well as the Epifanes stuff does - to be continued.
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