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Just removed the cylinder head (with pictures)

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Old Oct 23rd, 2011, 20:52   #11
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Angle tighten means.. when you tighten to 25 Nm then you should remove the torque wrench and then just angle tighten to 217 degrees? or what does it mean....????? so it will be over 25 Nm of torque? 25 just feels quite loose.. I do not understand how that angle tighten means?

Is that 25 Nm of torque some kind of a reference point?

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Old Oct 23rd, 2011, 21:11   #12
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Yes, angle tighten means turn it (further, after initially torquing it up) by the specified number of degrees. You can get an angle gauge to fit on a standard 1/2-inch drive - although the one I bought (Sealey) fell to bits on first use, which wasn't terribly clever! Top tip is to mark the position before you do the angle-tightening stage, so at least you have some idea where you started if it all goes wrong.

25 Nm does sound a small value, but I guess you have an all-alloy engine (sorry, I'm not familiar with the diesels) so I guess all the torques are going to be lower than on an cast-iron block...
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Old Oct 23rd, 2011, 21:16   #13
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Thanks, much appreciated!
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Old Oct 24th, 2011, 17:23   #14
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Just an update. Finished putting all things back together at 0355.... looks like I need to adjust timing because I tried to turn the engine on but seemed that there was no fuel supply... I will adjust that timing later on tomorrow.


One more thing, camshaft TDC is 1rst cilinder from the flywheel side or timing belt side?

If camshaft tdc is set it means that both valves on first cylinder should be open or fully closed?
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Old Oct 25th, 2011, 12:36   #15
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timing now is ok, but engine still won't work....I have checked all the cables, they are all tight and secured.. Have I missed something? I disconnected positive lead from batterie half an hour ago.. at 1500 I will try to start the ngine again.
Sometimes it feels likes its want to start but goes back to same speed as starter motor is turning.
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Old Oct 25th, 2011, 18:09   #16
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still nothing... and battery is about to run out of juice as well. If I won't find out what the h... is wrong with it, my next thread could be in x40 S1 Sales section...
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Old Oct 25th, 2011, 18:32   #17
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Have you definitely lined up all the timing marks correctly? My initial thoughts are the exhaust ports are open on the compression stroke...

The best thing you can do is leave it for today, wait for a few more suggestions, and go at it fresh tomorrow.

Can you trickle charge the battery overnight?
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Old Oct 25th, 2011, 19:15   #18
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I understand the diesel engines have to be primed after a rebuild and also the timing for the fuel pump has be set up.
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Old Oct 25th, 2011, 19:18   #19
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Sorry, I don't have any info on the diesel, so can't offer anything definite.

However, if no. 1 piston is TDC, I'd guess the valves should all be shut? Also, I think the cam turns twice for one revolution of the crank (somebody please correct me if this is wrong!). So worth double-checking that the crank was lined up on its mark at the same time the cams were.
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Old Oct 25th, 2011, 21:57   #20
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I fixed the timing, I removed that small torq type bolt from the front of engine block and located locking hole (which means that crankshaft is at TDC ) and then I set camshaft correctly alining fuel pump timing as well. Feels like imobiliser is activated, it turns over but it wont start.. checked that there is fuel in high pressure rail....... I will try to get some mechanic with code reader to come over to my place tomorrow.

If somebody could find a culprit I would send him a free ticket to MTV EMAs for the next month (7th of November) in Belfast. Its for Snow patrol concert, but if they change venues it might be valid for Red hot Chilli Peppers/Lady Gaga as well

Last edited by Biotoxic; Oct 25th, 2011 at 21:59.
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