Code 1507???? Help!

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

I wasnt talking about the cold flowing , only hot oil
I trade off the marginally thicker oil when cold (not siberia either) for better load under heat protection. to much hassle 2 times a year oilchanging
The 5w40 is also better sticking to metal when cold than a 0w30 so there is in fact better lubrication the very first cranks

About half of all engine wear occurs during a cold start and nothing beats an 0w30, unless you want to experiment with an 0w20.

A 5w40 does not stick to metal better than a 0w30, both oils will drain almost completely to sump after shut down. What does matter is how fast the oil flows when it cold starts and an 0w30 will flow faster than a 5w40, although the difference in wear terms is not significant until the oil temp is cold enough to be less than 10c above the oils pour point. For an 0w that will be around minus 30c, BUT if you use a 15w it will be around 0c.

If the oil to pour point temp is closer than 10c the oil flow to the top end will be rather too slow AND the oil pressure high enough to open the oil filter bypass valve for some time. That combination is bad news.

A lot of folks do at least 10K miles a year, so if you do an oil or oil & filter job every 5K miles, it should be possible to figure out a seasonal lube service program, like WOT I do for my Volvo, but not for my Twingo town car that is run on 0w40 and only gets its oil changed every 2 years or so due to low mileage. The Twango's handbook says an Xw30 or Xw40, although OEM was Elf 5w30 according to an old sticker on the rear window, which I can't seem to get off at present due to some awesome superglue job Renault did!

[5cilinder]

That Half of the wear during start up is a bit guess work because the cold start/ miles ratio differs a lot.also the temperature conditions
Besides even if this is true (or not) that doesnt mean that the 5w40 will be responsible of all the wear and the 0w30 will wear nothing during this cold start condition.

The selling point that the 0w30 will flow more quickly during startup is true , but that also means that when the engine is shut off that the reverse is also true.
That the thinner the oil the more easily it flows from neat little spaces and cavities than 5w40 during cooldown.
So when started up again there is more 5w40 pressent in the cavities than ow30
(not to mention the higher quantity anti wear dopes pressent percentage wise in 5w40 and totally with more oil pressent
(hydrocrack 5w40 baseoils ar even more clingy to metal outside viscosity as a sidenote
but pao 5w40 will dripp less back in the same time than a 0w30 on viscosity considerations alone)

Now thats the innitial favourable condition for 5w40 that after a brief time will be reversed in the advantage of 0w30 again due to the need of more oil and the easier flowing
Obviously that switchingpoint will be earlier the colder the wheater ,so there are very cold conditions thinkable that the average wear will be less with 0w30 during startup
and much warmer conditions that the (average!) wear wont differ much with 5w40

In fact the hot heavy duty conditions will tipp the balance wearwise in favour in again with 5w40 both viscositywise and anti wear dopewise. here in west europe.

North canada will be favourable for 0w30 i would guess

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

That Half of the wear during start up is a bit guess work because the cold start/ miles ratio differs a lot.also the temperature conditions
Besides even if this is true (or not) that doesnt mean that the 5w40 will be responsible of all the wear and the 0w30 will wear nothing during this cold start condition.

The selling point that the 0w30 will flow more quickly during startup is true , but that also means that when the engine is shut off that the reverse is also true.
That the thinner the oil the more easily it flows from neat little spaces and cavities than 5w40 during cooldown.
So when started up again there is more 5w40 pressent in the cavities than ow30
(not to mention the higher quantity anti wear dopes pressent percentage wise in 5w40 and totally with more oil pressent
(hydrocrack 5w40 baseoils ar even more clingy to metal outside viscosity as a sidenote
but pao 5w40 will dripp less back in the same time than a 0w30 on viscosity considerations alone)

Now thats the innitial favourable condition for 5w40 that after a brief time will be reversed in the advantage of 0w30 again due to the need of more oil and the easier flowing
Obviously that switchingpoint will be earlier the colder the wheater ,so there are very cold conditions thinkable that the average wear will be less with 0w30 during startup
and much warmer conditions that the (average!) wear wont differ much with 5w40

In fact the hot heavy duty conditions will tipp the balance wearwise in favour in again with 5w40 both viscositywise and anti wear dopewise. here in west europe.

North canada will be favourable for 0w30 i would guess

Some folks way up North use engine pre heaters, the rest use 0w30 or 40 oils in diesel cars or small trucks. The big rigs still use 15w40, although some have changed over to 5w40.

30 grades are OK in a hot dsert for petrol jobs, although a 5w30 does last slightly longer than an 0w30 due to reduced levels of viscosity improvers which weaken the high temp shear resistance of an oil slightly. Some of the best long life full synthetics are in fact 10w30 oils.

The anti wear additives in an 0w oil are often better than those in a 5 to 15w30 or 40, although it depends a lot on who makes the oil.

You need to read up on just how bad unfiltered oil and slow oil flow is, as it's far more important than what says stuck in the oil galleries, which is nowhere near enough to lubricate an engine during a cold or hot start. Also no oil is thin enough for real good flow rates around the top end when cold. It would need to have the same viscosity as WD40!

SAE groups are not linear, so for example a 15 oil is not twice as thin as a 30
grade oil, which is why the US is now moving towards using straight 15 and !8 grades for newer petrol jobs. The 15 grade can be made as a straight oil (Very cheap) for those down South or with pre heaters and it will last longer in viscosity terms.
For diesel cars, the trend seems to be towards longer lasting full synthetic 10w30's, which in viscosity terms are not much different from 0w40 oils.

The current OEM oil for a V40 classic is either Volvo 0w40 or Castrol Edge 0w40 (A3/B4), although the Volvo oil is probably just a label swap for the rich kids

[5cilinder]

Im familiar with the non lineairity and also the filtration , industry en ocean engines use effective bypassfiltration (not even expensive to use on cars )

engines who use preheaters and pre pressure and or never cool down straight base oils can even be better than multigrade oil. polymers dont lubricate

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

That Half of the wear during start up is a bit guess work because the cold start/ miles ratio differs a lot.also the temperature conditions
Besides even if this is true (or not) that doesnt mean that the 5w40 will be responsible of all the wear and the 0w30 will wear nothing during this cold start condition.

The selling point that the 0w30 will flow more quickly during startup is true , but that also means that when the engine is shut off that the reverse is also true.
That the thinner the oil the more easily it flows from neat little spaces and cavities than 5w40 during cooldown.
So when started up again there is more 5w40 pressent in the cavities than ow30
(not to mention the higher quantity anti wear dopes pressent percentage wise in 5w40 and totally with more oil pressent
(hydrocrack 5w40 baseoils ar even more clingy to metal outside viscosity as a sidenote
but pao 5w40 will dripp less back in the same time than a 0w30 on viscosity considerations alone)

Now thats the innitial favourable condition for 5w40 that after a brief time will be reversed in the advantage of 0w30 again due to the need of more oil and the easier flowing.

UMM, ERR must be a typo cos an 0w30 flows around the top end faster than a 5w40 when hot or cold!

Obviously that switchingpoint will be earlier the colder the wheater ,so there are very cold conditions thinkable that the average wear will be less with 0w30 during startup
and much warmer conditions that the (average!) wear wont differ much with 5w40

In fact the hot heavy duty conditions will tipp the balance wearwise in favour in again with 5w40 both viscositywise and anti wear dopewise. here in west europe.

North canada will be favourable for 0w30 i would guess

Some folks way up North use engine pre heaters, the rest use 0w30 or 40 oils in diesel cars or small trucks. The big rigs still use 15w40, although some have changed over to 5w40.

30 grades are OK in a hot dsert for petrol jobs, although a 5w30 does last slightly longer than an 0w30 due to reduced levels of viscosity improvers which weaken the high temp shear resistance of an oil slightly. Some of the best long life full synthetics are in fact 10w30 oils.

The anti wear additives in an 0w oil are often better than those in a 5 to 15w30 or 40, although it depends a lot on who makes the oil.

You need to read up on just how bad unfiltered oil and slow oil flow is, as it's far more important than what says stuck in the oil galleries, which is nowhere near enough to lubricate an engine during a cold or hot start. Also no oil is thin enough for real good flow rates around the top end when cold. It would need to have the same viscosity as WD40!

SAE groups are not linear, so for example a 15 oil is not twice as thin as a 30
grade oil, which is why the US is now moving towards using straight 15 and !8 grades for newer petrol jobs. The 15 grade can be made as a straight oil (Very cheap) for those down South or with pre heaters and it will last longer in viscosity terms.
For diesel cars, the trend seems to be towards longer lasting full synthetic 10w30's, which in viscosity terms are not much different from 0w40 oils.

The current OEM oil for a V40 classic is either Volvo 0w40 or Castrol Edge 0w40 (A3/B4), although the Volvo oil is probably just a label swap for the rich kids

[1784]

Originally Posted by Symes

Hi,
saw your post about replacing the cartridge in your xc70 after suspecting failed oil seals.
the symptoms are similar to my xc D5, but the dpf also gets blocked frequently and I'm about to order a melett chra to hopefully quench the thirst for a litre of oil every 100 miles or so!

i have vida wwhich is great if you inteend to keep the car for any length of time, aand also keep a bsr ppc reader in the boot storage - if you're down hampshire/berkshire way i'd be happy to stick your car on it/them.

just wondered if your new turbo core has sorted out your oil consumption situation?

as a new member you may nkt be able to private message until your post count reaches 30, if thats the case could you update your thread with oil consumption findings please?

thanks,

simon

Hi and thanks for your message. My car was using a similar amount of oil to yours. I'm not certain yet as I haven't covered many miles but early indications are good. My oil consumption was so bad that a new dpf had been fitted prior to my purchase, and in my time the throttle control failed, had about 15mm carbon/oil sludge on it that was affecting performance. Don't undertake turbo replacement lightly, I found it to be a terribly difficult job. Thanks for the offer of vida by the way

[Symes]

Thanks for that, my dpf has also been giving the 'filter full' message - I've been washing it out every few Months, and it's definitely oily!

Did you remove the turbo from underneath? There have been reports that it is possible to pull it out from the top (just about), but I had wondered about using a ratchet strap to pull the engine forward (top steady bar removed) to provide a bit more space at the bulkhead.

Thanks.