V50 Engine 2.0D : Engine won't start but battery seems ok - any idea's???

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by padder1956

you cannot test the battery with a multi meter

Well, he technically CAN but wont give him proper answer :P
Lion_Heart - it would be better if you hook up the multimeter to cig lighter socket and checked it trough this.

[Lion Heart]

Originally Posted by padder1956

you cannot test the battery with a multi meter

Really? I've not heard that before. Why would that be?

I also found and read this guide and they advise to use a multimeter as well:

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...on-car-tests-2

If you don't use a multimeter to measure the voltage, what else can you use?

[Lion Heart]

Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom

Well, he technically CAN but wont give him proper answer :P
Lion_Heart - it would be better if you hook up the multimeter to cig lighter socket and checked it trough this.

Ah ok. Just so's I understand - why is it better to test from the cig lighter rather than the battery itself?

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by padder1956

you cannot test the battery with a multi meter

Yes you can.

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by Lion Heart

Ah ok. Just so's I understand - why is it better to test from the cig lighter rather than the battery itself?

I was always taught that measuring voltage in furthest point will give you more precise info than putting the meter to battery itself, as it would show more voltage drops on the whole electrical system. But I dont really know if thats scientific explanation or exactly the same as putting voltmeter to battery terminals, to be honest.

[Lion Heart]

Uh, oh. What have I started here, lol.

Looking at that same guide I linked in my previois post, they also recommend to run that same test at the starter motor positive terminal as well just to double-check that the power is getting to the starter, to rule on ignition switching issues.

So I think I'll try that as well before buying a new starter just in case.

Found a DIY guide for doing the starter. Does not look too bad. Done from the top, no need to even jack up the car!

[chrisdc]

It's been a very long time since I stripped a starter motor but back then the bendix on the starter motor was more likely to be the culprit in a case like this. The wearing bits on the starter itself are the bearings, brushes and commutator. As they wear, starter performance will gradually deteriorate, but gradually is the operative word here.

The ignition switch can't handle all that much current on its own so it will power the bendix solenoid coil instead, probably via a relay. The bendix is a type of solenoid actuated mechanism that meshes the starter motor teeth with the teeth on the flywheel. The bendix also serves as a heavy duty relay. When it pulls in, it closes two heavy duty contacts. One will be the big fat red cable (positive) that goes to the battery, the other will be the high current feed to the actual starter motor. If those heavy duty contacts are burned / damaged, that would account for the click (solenoid engaging) but no starter activity. Clean tight connections where the heavy duty earth / ground strap from engine block go to chassis and from chassis to battery are also vital for optimal starter function.

Auto electricians test starter motors on their workbenches before fitment to vehicles. I've seen them using blocks of wood to simulate a load on the starter teeth. It's not rocket science. But you do need to be careful! That starter has a LOT of torque.

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by Lion Heart

Uh, oh. What have I started here, lol.

Looking at that same guide I linked in my previois post, they also recommend to run that same test at the starter motor positive terminal as well just to double-check that the power is getting to the starter, to rule on ignition switching issues.

So I think I'll try that as well before buying a new starter just in case.

Found a DIY guide for doing the starter. Does not look too bad. Done from the top, no need to even jack up the car!

You can use a multimeter to test the battery voltage and to do that you should connect it directly to the battery. If that seems okay then you can try measuring the voltage at the starter terminal (alternator easier to get to and same wire). If that is different from the battery voltage then you might have an issue with the battery connection or fuse but this would be unusual.

Try also measuring the battery voltage with the ignition on, wipers, headlights, heater fan and rear window on to see if there is a substantial drop.

If you want to measure the battery voltage then a digital multimeter is the best and most accurate tool. You need special kit to measure its capacity and CCA capability.

FYI starter motors and alternators are common failures on these cars, they’re cheap FoMoCo parts.

[padder1956]

how do you simulate load with a multi meter to test a battery
agree you can check the voltage but you cannot test the battery

[Baxlin]

Read this with interest, as there has been a similar thread on another forum, ie everything working on a diesel except the starter.

Almost invariably it was the battery, even though it would start a petrol car.

So humour me, have you tried a new battery?